Stag Crown Question

Reverse process gives better results , baking soda is first used to fill a gap then the adhesive is dropped onto the baking soda. This works well with porous materials that do not work well with the adhesive alone.........

That is what I do.

Just got a 4 oz hammer and the head was loose and there was gaps in the wood so the head could not be tighten up.

So i took some G10 dust and packed it into the void, applied used Bob Smiths Insta Cure, which is like water, it wicked into all the space filled with dust and hardened like a rock.

Hammer head now is very solid.
 
I have a nice chunk of stag I picked up at the last blade show west. My solution to the brow tine is a double key hole Bowie. This will probably be my winder project as it will probably take all winter just to fit the keyholes lol.

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First thing I would do is contour the scar to the rest of the stag. Then I'd texture it and dye it before you seal it. Here's one I did years ago: https://www.bladegallery.com/shopexd.asp?id=91910
Hey Raymond, good looking Knife right there! I have heard using Fiebings leather dye works well for this purpose. Any recommendations?
 
In the old days, a strong solution of baking soda was used as an accelerator for CA.
The current stuff is a chemical that starts the polymerization instantly by creating a strong alkaline environment. It contains Isopropyl Alcohol, N,N-Dialkyltoluidine, and
Hydroquinone

You can make your own accelerator spray by dissolving 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda in 2 oz of water. Spray on with a fine mist sprayer.
I have played around with using baking soda to help catalyze quicker. One problem I find is when the CA sets it tends to turn white and not be clear if I use straight baking soda to catalyze. I was never very accurate making a solution but would get "white hardened" CA with that at times too.

Even get the white in the cure once in a while with the store bought accelerator. I assume this is bubbles? Is there a way to avoid the bubbles? You don't want your finished stuff to be white.
 
Any acceleration will usually turn the resin white. It will be somewhat clearer when sanded, but if you want the clearest appearance, let it set up on its own slowly overnight.
 
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