Stag on full tang + pin questions

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Feb 4, 1999
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Okay, I read through every thread on stag and peening pins in Shop Talk and the archive, but I have a couple things to clear up still... I made a knife from some of Kim Breed's cable damascus, and I'm putting stag scales and damascus pins on it. It has a FULL TANG. My questions:

1) Is it better to: a) epoxy the scales and pins in like any other knife I make, then grind the pins to sort of match the shape of the stag's surface, b) to epoxy/peen, or c) to just peen the pins?

2) If it's best to just epoxy it all, then shape the pins using a Dremel, which attachment would I want to use? Pins are hopefully going to be damascus!

3) If I peen the pins, to get the pin to sort of match the scale contours, do I use something like a rounded off punch instead of the hammer?

4) I assume my construction goes like this: glue one scale, drill scale, glue other scale, flip over and drill through the whole works to get it all evened up. Then peen or shape pins (whatever the best advice above is), then finish the stag and pins.

Finishing questions:
1) I want the stag to retain as much natural beauty as possible. When contouring with the tang, do I sand it up just like usual (being careful not to burn it of course)? Then buff it to get it shiny? I don't buff anything, so what color compound and type of byffing wheel do I use?

2) For the surface of the scales I'm thinking I want to remove a little of the brown color from the tops of the ridges, but keep color in the valleys. Do I sand a little using a fine grit paper, or do I just buff immediately? Do I use the same compound and wheel as above? Will buffing remove too much color in the valleys and force me to dye or color the handle somehow (I don't want to do this!)?

3) Any idea for the best way to mask off the material around the pins for when I etch them? I assume I'll mask, then use a q-tip to just get the ferric chloride where I want it, but how/what would I use to mask everything off? Or, just dab a tiny eensy weensy bit of FC on the q-tip and dab the surface of the pins?

Sorry for all the questions, but at $20 for a pair of scales and with rare pin material I don't want to screw up! Especially since Kim bought the scales for me because he wants the knife when I finish it! Pressure is ON! :D
 
A lot here to answer.You are tackling a big job but here goes.
Epoxy the scales on and pin as you would any handle.Try to avoid getting extra glue in the groves on the stag.
Shape with small files,and Dremel tool using cratex wheels.Don't peen on stag until you have a lot of experience (Or you will get an experience you won't like).
For finishing - Get an old deer antler and practice on it,Stag works kind of different from wood.
Clean out any glue from the groves.Sand the scales to the tang on the perimeter and fair it onto the sides.Lightly hand sand and rub with steel wool to get the desired amount of polish and shine to the stag.Steel wool can clean out the dirt and crud in the low places,too.Buff on a SLOW wheel with a linen buff and white compound.Hand buffing after hand sanding works even better for first timers.Charge a piece of cotton cloth with the white compound and buff away.A light buff with bees wax to finish works well.Don't use oil.
Finally - YOU WILL MOST LIKELY MESS UP THE STAG IF YOU TRY TO ETCH THE PINS ON THE HANDLE! You won't be able to mask it enough to be sure the FC won't get to the antler.Just finish them to the stag profile and let them slowly age .I use mosaic rivets sometimes,for an effect.
 
Got it, thanks! In retrospect I should have gotten some practice material while I was at it, but you know how that goes! :rolleyes:
 
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