Stage Use Swords

L

Lynn

Joined
Oct 31, 1998
Messages
480
I have never starteds topic on this forum before but I have read most of the posts and learned lots. Now I'd like to request some help.

I have to make a couple of swords for a Shakespere production. They should be of a modified design sometimes called a "bastard" sword about 1 1/2" wide at the base, tapering to about 1/2" just before the point and about 3/16" thick at the guard. The real problem will be the type of steel and the heat treating because they must be able to be struck togather repeatedly on stage.

I have been thinking that 5160 with a "spring" temper of about 600 degrees. Would that give me what I'm looking for as far as toughness?
Thanks, Lynn
 
Stage swords are generally made from aircraft aluminum. They're safer, lighter, take more abuse from each other, easier to make a dozen of, and cheaper to replace. The audience doesn't know the difference. Watch Highlander sometime, every sword that isn't a closeup is Al.

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Oz

"This is your life, and it's ending; One minute at a time."
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/
 
A buddy of mine made 12 swords for a knights of the round table theater production. He ground them out of mild steel and left all the edges about 3/32 thick so that no one would get intentionaly hurt. Made an incredable noise when banged together or onto the armour, and the actors were actually stagering around after getting wacked.

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Robert
Flat Land Knife Works
rdblad@telusplanet.net
http://members.tripod.com/knifeworks/index.html
 
Well, I'm not sure if you're constrained by time, budget, or just a personal desire to make 'em yourself, but if you wanted to acquire some very good stage blades for a comparatively low price, do a search for and go visit Starfire Forges website.

Zack makes a good piece, very affordable. My 36"-ish long sword was onstage for four seasons worth of Mainstage productions...used as everything from a wallhanging in a murder mystery, to my sidearm in that Scottish play...

And it still does admirably at Ren Faires.

My $.02.


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Meddle not in the affairs of Dragons, for you are crunchy, and good with ketchup...
 
I got a Starfire katana, and it's a good blade, but they're heavy for actors to swing around, unless they do the SCA or faire thing a lot.

------------------
Oz

"This is your life, and it's ending; One minute at a time."
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/
 
Thanks to all for your replys. I appriciate your help

Oz, aluminum makes a great looking sword. I've made several but the ones I've make sound dead when hit togather.

Robert, mild steel make very passable swords, expecially something like a broad sword. In the smaller blades they tend to bend at the most ackward times. Embarassing the maker!

Because I like to make the blades, and get paid for it, I've only bought things that I have no intrest in making such as foils.

Thanks again for all the advice.

Lynn
 
Oz--

True, Starfire's versions of 'light' blades are way too heavy, but they sound wonderfully theatrical! I was recently out at Scarborough, and considered getting one of their Pappenheimer Rapiers, but it was just obscenely out of balance. Their long- and broad-sword blades, however, are quite comfortable. I'm a geek, presently, and I can still hold mine at full extension, elbow unlocked for about a minute, without a twitch.

It was just a thought, anyway...


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Meddle not in the affairs of Dragons, for you are crunchy, and good with ketchup...
 
I got the katana because I liked the hilt balance, and because I took kendo for a couple of years, I figured it would be good to have a sword for live steel use. It's about three times the weight of the japanese blades I've handled, though. The weight is only an issue with stage combat because actors tend to hurt each other with heavier blades, and swinging them will get you tired faster than holding them. The more tired you get, the less control you have, etc. I've never acted with anyone out of faire or SCA that I'd trust enough to put steel in their hands for a fight, but our plays had some rather flaky folks.
A 600 degree temper would work for 5160, or you could "oil mist" quench it, according to specs for spring hardness. To me, an oil mist quench sounds like WD40, but I'm sure some of the folks on here have better ways.

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Oz

"This is your life, and it's ending; One minute at a time."
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/

[This message has been edited by Osbourn (edited 05-12-2000).]
 
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