staining an axe handle

Any type of wood stain really! I use minwax because it's readily available and is a good brand. As long as you keep your handle nourished with blo you'll have no problem ( I've also heard of people using shoe die to get a nice color )
Torching can also have a good result.
 
I've had good luck with Watco Danish oil/stain. I'd have to look at it again to tell you the color.

It mixes well with BLO and some mineral spirits. There are all sorts of stains out there but I only feel qualified to talk about what I've actually used.

Depending on your handle it can it can different effects. New, fresh handles it comes lighter.

DLOlOpH.jpg


Older handles you want to keep around I mix it with BLO and it usually comes out dark and rich.
M8Iwo10.jpg


I've also found at times the same application doesn't do much to the wood and seems to show more in the grain.
lDx7VNr.jpg



Dye is something I've tried but can seem to get the mix or application down to not have it come off for a while on gloves or your hands. (dye doesn't care if it's wood or you hands...) I use this boy's axe and it doesn't bleed any more but I still think of it as orange...
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Don't get caught "red-handed" :)

I assume the exposed grain, how tight it is, and how sanding finished it is before staining all make a difference. I also have left freshly stained handles in direct summer sunlight right after application and think that has an effect - or it's my imagination.

Even coating, temperature, age of wood, heart wood or sap wood, whether you shook the can, and a bunch of other stuff probably makes as big a difference. The pictures are just examples of course and results always vary.

I'm always looking for advice on this as well.
 
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Lieblad said:
But how about an Estwing, Krylon or Birchwood Casey ?
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What's worked for you Liebald?

I personally haven't done anything to the Eastwing I have except use it, put leather conditioner on the handle (dried it out I think, won't do it again) and WD-40 when I am done using it.
 
If you really want to make a statement check out water-based Aniline dyes from Lee Valley Tools. Typically used for wood toys, chess pieces and decorative wood projects, man they feature outrageously vivid colours.
 
Lieblad said:
Otherwise any of my other wood hafts, Stain is done the legitimate 'ol-fashion way, Dirty hands using them.
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Thanks Liebald. When I read this:
Lieblad said:
But how about an Estwing, Krylon or Birchwood Casey ?
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I asked myself why that was your choice of words and I thought;

1. Change of subject?
2. Handles don't need stain?
3. OP shouldn't need to ask?
4. Tongue in cheek?
5. Replied to wrong post?

Like a multiple choice test.
 
Stain effects depend a lot on the type of wood and sometimes the specific piece. Grain density takes stain differently and not always to good effect. STILL - to the OP ONEBIGBOWIE if your handles is clean of any previous finish and hand oils or other dirt, try whatever stain you like. The ebony could be very nice. Might start out to light but you can repeat the application to get it darker. Too dark? Wipe it down with mineral spirits. No need to sand beyond 150 grit and certainly no need beyond 220. More than that is just extra work that can burnish the wood so that it won't accept the stain to full effect. I do agree that dyes can be great fun and allow for all sorts of super color effects but stain is a good tool treatment too - as is natural :thumbup: :)

I recommend that you don't use a stain/poly mix product. The stain doesn't really penetrate and with use you will create bare spots that over time will look pretty awful. Use an oil based stain (Minwax is OK - for an axe handle - really sucks as a furniture finish - there are soooooo many better products but Minwax is readily available and works plenty good for this type of project.) Let it dry for at least 24 hours and better is 72 hours before applying a top coat of BLO or Tung Oil or Forby's or Watco Danish Oil, among others. Letting the stain dry for a few days keeps it from being pulled out and diluted by the oil finish top coat.
 
I use a variety of stain colors including blended or streaking strain effects at times. Gray driftwood stain looks nice when restoring an old handle or when wanting a newer one to look older.
For final finishing I use alternating coats of Birchwood Casey Truoil and wax. If you want more gloss use more Truoil and if you want the more dull and natural look use more wax-or end the finish with wax.
 
Lots of people use leather dye to stain handles..Ive used it but it can be messy, works fine though. My favorite is Aqua Fortis.
 
Staining is for experts frankly. A lot can go wrong.

You shouldn't use a spirit stain if you're then going over the wood with a solvent-based finish like BLO. You'll likely end up with patches. Opt for water-based stain.

A handle exposes both long grain and end grain on the end, the shoulder and the curve of the foot. The end grain soaks up more stain and goes darker. You can fight this with selective treatment with a sanding sealer before you stain (but again don't mix spirit based products).

Some bits of hickory are coarse grained or have been roughly turned and you end up with darker pin stripes. Agent_H's last pic shows this well.

And yes, many timbers darken anyway with age. Some say it's the UV, others say it's oxidation. I don't know enough about hickory to say about it.

My recommendation would be to opt for an oil-based wood finish which comes with some stain. Try to find a finish with a high oil content (as against urethane) - that will soak in more and allow you to build your colour by number of coats.
 
I like Ziggy's advise. The problem I always see with stain jobs is the dark patches and overly dark grain where the stain soaks into the porous areas. Pre-treating a haft with a sealer like Benite* will allow the stain to work evenly. And sand those endgrain areas really well before the Benite. Then a colored oil based product like Watco's Danish oil can be used to color the wood in several coats to reach the desired color.

I just leave mine natural.
 
First post here.... sorry for digging up an old thread!

Another option is to pull from oldschool Japanese techniques with san sugi ban. Essentially char the wood quickly with a good hot torch (and cool it off quickly too, too much heat differential can stress the wood out and cause cracks). Scrub it, sand it, oil it like anything else after that.

I'm still playing with the technique a bit, but it's a good alternative to stain if you want to darken it up

Maul_After1.jpg


MANN_After2.jpg


Basement_After.jpg


Banko_After1.jpg
 
10FiftyFive said:
First post here.... sorry for digging up an old thread!

Another option is to pull from oldschool Japanese techniques with san sugi ban. Essentially char the wood quickly with a good hot torch (and cool it off quickly too, too much heat differential can stress the wood out and cause cracks). Scrub it, sand it, oil it like anything else after that.

I'm still playing with the technique a bit, but it's a good alternative to stain if you want to darken it up

Maul_After1.jpg


MANN_After2.jpg


Basement_After.jpg


Banko_After1.jpg
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I prefer to to a little lighter with the torch, but I definitely lie the torched look.
After torching while it's still warm I like to add an oil/ beeswax mixture.
 
I can't see myself staining most of my handles, but I am the type of person that likes to try things once or twice. I keep thinking about using the old teabag/vinegar/steel wool trick for ebony staining wood.
 
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