Staining and Oiling

J

Jackal_89

Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
122
Well guys, I'm back, which means it's time for another newbie question!

I recently scored one of the KLVUK's on the DOTD with a shrunken handle. I've been doing quite a bit of reading here and elsewhere about soaking the handle in polymerized BLO to re-hydrate the handle and try to expand it back out. Not that I'm afraid to break out the files. My question is about what order I should apply oil and stain. Stain or oil first?

On a side note, I can't decide whether or not it is worth it to submerge the handle in oil or just wipe it on with my rag or my fingers. I couldn't really come to a consensus from the reading.
 
Well this is embarassing. I read a thread on another forum and found out. Of course this would happen after I post.

Mods, feel free to delete this post.
 
It's still a viable question and still a personal choice. I usually don't soak the whole handle but as you suggested just wipe on with fingers or a rag. It sometimes helps to thin the BLO a bit with mineral spirits so it soak in even better.

Far as stain goes, you never know what your gonna get with stain, I actually hate stain. BUT if I feel the need to stain I oil first especially on a soft or blonde wood. This even out the wood density I guess for lack of a better term so the stain will take more evenly and not get all blotchy.

I like natural wood myself and avoid stain if I can but sometimes it just begs to be darker so there is a place for stain.
 
Most people don't stain the handles on these things. Usually the handles are nice enough not to warrant it. Usually the stain would be applied first and then hydration and sealing.
 
Karda said:
Most people don't stain the handles on these things. Usually the handles are nice enough not to warrant it. Usually the stain would be applied first and then hydration and sealing.
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It's still up in the air for me. I'm partial to darker woods for things like this. If the handle is more of a mid tone, I won't bother.

As for what oil to use; I did some more reading and found that there seems to be a split with people who prefer BLO or pure linseed oil, thinned with spirits or turpentine. After finding out that BLO has heavy metals in it, I'm not too keen on using it. I'm sure both will work, and I'm not concerned with waiting a few more days to dry.

Karda: You mentioned hydration and then sealing. I was under the impression that once the linseed oil polymerizes, it seals as well.
 
I may as well through this out there before I head off to work for the day.

I recall reading something about linseed oil eventually aiding in the rotting process. Something about turning acidic after many years. I can't find anything else to substantiate this. Any of you ever heard that before?
 
I understand that the continual use of linseed oil will soften wood. You'll see this with older military rifles that have had many treatments of linseed oil over the years.

One treatment of linseed oil will not harm your wood. Besides, like everything else, it's a balance and cost-benefit.
 
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BLO will usually darken the wood. Some types like neem will darken considerably from my experience.
I dont think I have more than 150 years left on my clock so I personally wouldnt worry my head too much about rot;) If your unsure id just mineral oil it and be done till you figure out what works best for you.
 
ndoghouse said:
BLO will usually darken the wood. Some types like neem will darken considerably from my experience.
I dont think I have more than 150 years left on my clock so I personally wouldnt worry my head too much about rot;) If your unsure id just mineral oil it and be done till you figure out what works best for you.
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Would I be able to just let it soak in a new oil after it's had the mineral oil? Or would I have to wait for a time and remove it with something?

I've also been reading a lot about tung oil. Anyone have any thoughts on that?
 
Tung oil has slightly better moisture protection qualities than Linseed. Danish oil nearly the same thing. I think there just slightly different ingredients but basically oil is oil.

Many of these oils are compatible with one another. You can linseed and then Tung oil over it with no ill effect.

Tru Oil as Karda mentioned is more of a surface treatment like varnish or varathane. It dries hard and solid with very good moisture protection. Linseed or any oil over it does nothing, it won't penetrate or adhere. It's like wiping your car down with an oily rag, might make it look shiny for a bit but not much else.
That's why it has limited working time when your applying/rubbing it in.

I've redone some stocks where I didn't know what was on them previously, had one in particular that nothing worked on, wanted to instantly turn into a gooey mess. Usually that's not an issue.

I just don't see where this issue with BLO is coming from, I've never had it turn sticky or messy. Even when over applied. It wipes off.

Any oil will darken leather and usually darken wood especially the darker varieties but blonde as well.
 
a comment then some questions:

First of all, I am super impressed with all you veteran HI forumites and your knowledge and patience with new folks. This isn't always the case on other forums and sites and you are all to be commended and have earned a great deal of respect from me. Thank you.

My questions relate to me also just receiving my first KLVUK, so I thought I would put them here. I apologize if they should be elsewhere. I plan to use Tung oil on the handle because I already have some laying around and have used it before. I assume it doesn't matter if it gets in contact with the brass or blade, correct?

The second question is what type of treatment should the blade receive? I plan on using it, but I would like to preserve the look it has now and don't have any experience taking care of such a blade.
 
khukoo head said:
a comment then some questions:

First of all, I am super impressed with all you veteran HI forumites and your knowledge and patience with new folks. This isn't always the case on other forums and sites and you are all to be commended and have earned a great deal of respect from me. Thank you.

My questions relate to me also just receiving my first KLVUK, so I thought I would put them here. I apologize if they should be elsewhere. I plan to use Tung oil on the handle because I already have some laying around and have used it before. I assume it doesn't matter if it gets in contact with the brass or blade, correct?

The second question is what type of treatment should the blade receive? I plan on using it, but I would like to preserve the look it has now and don't have any experience taking care of such a blade.
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Thanks Khukoo. We like to think we are the friendliest forum on BF. The only real rule here is that you treat others as you would wish to be treated. No reason to jump a guy for asking questions.

Tung Oil won't hurt the brass or steel. At least nothing that can't be cleaned up.
If you use your blade it won't look the same as it does now. The forge scale will wear and the blade will get marked.
I've always used Nev-R-Dull for all the fittings and wash my blades after usage in hot soapy water to remove sap and things. I use a scotch-brite pad to remove heavy stuff and it leaves a nice satin style finish. For storage I just liberally coat the blade in mineral oil.
 
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khukoo head said:
a comment then some questions:

First of all, I am super impressed with all you veteran HI forumites and your knowledge and patience with new folks. This isn't always the case on other forums and sites and you are all to be commended and have earned a great deal of respect from me. Thank you.

My questions relate to me also just receiving my first KLVUK, so I thought I would put them here. I apologize if they should be elsewhere. I plan to use Tung oil on the handle because I already have some laying around and have used it before. I assume it doesn't matter if it gets in contact with the brass or blade, correct?

The second question is what type of treatment should the blade receive? I plan on using it, but I would like to preserve the look it has now and don't have any experience taking care of such a blade.
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I'm fine with tack-on questions at all, so ask away! I'm a newbie myself, so any info is good info.

The blade is the easiest part to take care of. The forge scaling actually acts as a protective rust, but will wear of and should still be oiled. Mineral oil, gun oil, olive oil, whatever, will work for the metal. Just be sure to coat it with something when it's all clean and done. Like my guns, I've got some nice bayonets that I smear with lithium grease when I know I'm not taking them to the range for a while. Just a light coating with my fingers. However, I do not suggest grease for a wood or leather sheath. I would just keep it to a natural oil.

Oil should not hurt the brass (feel free to comment on this guys). I keep my buck knives oiled all spring and summer. The only tarnish I have is from forgetting to wipe blood off after a hunt.

As for the handles, this is where I don't know what I'm doing either. Based on what I've read though (here and other forums) I'm going to try pure tung oil. It takes longer to dry, but people seem to like its affects better. Just my $0.02.
 
I used tung oil to finish some hiking staffs I made for some friends and really liked the way they turned out. It just accentuated the natural wood grain and darkened the wood just a smidge. I applied a light coat and allowed to dry for a day or two before light sanding and re-coating.

I was most confused by the blade. I didn't want to remove the scaling by cleaning after use. I think I get the general idea now and if I screw it up, I will treat it as a learning experience so that I can give good advice to future new guys...

Thanks y'all!
 
khukoo head said:
I used tung oil to finish some hiking staffs I made for some friends and really liked the way they turned out. It just accentuated the natural wood grain and darkened the wood just a smidge. I applied a light coat and allowed to dry for a day or two before light sanding and re-coating.

I was most confused by the blade. I didn't want to remove the scaling by cleaning after use. I think I get the general idea now and if I screw it up, I will treat it as a learning experience so that I can give good advice to future new guys...

Thanks y'all!
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Trust me, the scaling isn't going to come off easy. Certainly not from wiping it down with some oil, but it will wear off as you use it. I "recently" heat treated an AK-74 receiver for a parts kit build and and let me tell you, that scaling is tough! Luckily I have a friend with a media blaster, so we hit it with a combination of aluminum oxide from the media blaster and wire wheels. That being said; unless you're going to oil it with 60 grit sand paper, I wouldn't worry about removing the scaling by cleaning.
 
Jackal_89 said:
Trust me, the scaling isn't going to come off easy. Certainly not from wiping it down with some oil, but it will wear off as you use it. I "recently" heat treated an AK-74 receiver for a parts kit build and and let me tell you, that scaling is tough! Luckily I have a friend with a media blaster, so we hit it with a combination of aluminum oxide from the media blaster and wire wheels. That being said; unless you're going to oil it with 60 grit sand paper, I wouldn't worry about removing the scaling by cleaning.
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I haven't tried it, but from what I understand the scale comes off readily with a soak in vinegar.
 
Yup, vinegar is the ticket if you want to remove the scale. I was shocked. I started to sand and file a bit and I was getting absolutely no where.
Soaked a paper towel in apple vinegar and in about 10 minutes it was gone. I soaked a couple more times just cause but not sure I really needed too.
 
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