Staining on D2 Steel Blade

T

TheWildernessDude

Joined
Mar 15, 2023
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4
Hi, I accidentally got water in my kydex sheath when I put my D2 steel knife away. Some light rust developed before I found out, I bought naval jelly and applied it on the rust spots for 6 minutes. I washed it off and dried the blade but there is some grey staining on the blade where I applied the naval jelly. It looks bad and I’m wondering how I could get this off. Thanks!
 
Pics?

I usually use a cleaner called barkeepers friend. It's pretty aggressive, it's made for cleaning the Bottom of kitchen pots. But I don't care too much about looks

Flitz or Mothers mag & aluminum polish might be gentler?
 
Naval jelly is very corrosive in itself, containing strong acids (phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid). So it will oxidize and etch the steel - creating that grey 'patina' and maybe some pitting - while also stripping rust.

It's usually better just to use some polishing paste like Flitz, Simichrome, etc., to clean up light oxidation on blades.

OR, the grey oxide can simply be left alone. By itself, it won't do any new damage. The red oxide (rust) is what will do the most damage if it's left untended.
 
I've had really good luck cleaning rust off with baking soda n elbow grease. It does clean off the patina too which is something I try to avoid cause I like the look. If I want it to go faster a couple dips in vinegar but only for a second as that can also create a patina. Then more baking soda n rubbing. I've done it on d2 and other steels. As long as the vinegar is room temp and you don't leave it in there too long you really can't cause damage with this mild of cleaners.
 
Yes, for light red rust on blades, the baking soda scrubbing usually handles it. That's likely the gentlest way to clean it up without scratching or altering the steel itself. I've used this method after applying a vinegar patina to carbon steels like 1095 & CV. Some dark oxide patina might remain, depending on the steel and how firmly the oxide sets. But the dark oxide won't harm anything.
 
My demo in d2 will go from slightly rusty to brand new lookin stonewash too. Not sure that it always works but it does with that one for sure
 
Unless it's a safe queen, it's going to get some degree of patina with use.
0000 steel wool is useful if it bothers you.
Put it away or use it like you stole it.
Your choice.
 
If you are going to use a knife.

Either embrace the patina, or buy stainless.

You will make yourself crazy trying to keep carbon steel looking new.

view
 
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I just used Flitz on this one, and it looks brand new now. The bottom 'before' picture is from ebay - what I bought the knife based on.

Flitz is pretty miraculous. I clean blades like this with Magic Eraser and alcohol first, then use Flitz.

I have Barkeepers Friend for really bad pots and pans - generally things I find in garage sales. It's VERY abrasive and it would take a special type of knife hell for me to use it, but I could see using it special cases.

os7OdUD.jpg
 
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Use Puma Paste made by the Puma Knife company. It will shine carbon steel blades with patina to shiny, stainless will look like new. Flitz paste is a decent second choice, but Puma Paste is even better.
 
jeffbird said:
Use Puma Paste made by the Puma Knife company. It will shine carbon steel blades with patina to shiny, stainless will look like new. Flitz paste is a decent second choice, but Puma Paste is even better.
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How is it better? I'm honestly curious - I buy almost any new product I hear about that is described as being better than what I'm using, but I'm not seeing how something can do a better job than bringing my blade back to looking new, in less than two minutes. So let's hear it. Thanks.
 
runscott said:
How is it better? I'm honestly curious - I buy almost any new product I hear about that is described as being better than what I'm using, but I'm not seeing how something can do a better job than bringing my blade back to looking new, in less than two minutes. So let's hear it. Thanks.
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I have both and use both, Flitz is unquestionably a good and effective product, but the Puma paste works faster and is more effective at cleaning up heavy patina on my carbon steel blades after hunting season. I start with Flitz as it is lower cost. Then for stubborn spots use the Puma paste.
 
jeffbird said:
I have both and use both, Flitz is unquestionably a good and effective product, but the Puma paste works faster and is more effective at cleaning up heavy patina on my carbon steel blades after hunting season. I start with Flitz as it is lower cost. Then for stubborn spots use the Puma paste.
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Thanks. I'll pick some up and give it a try.
 
Flitz (blue) does seem to be a gentler, less aggressive polisher as compared to some other pastes. I've compared it to Simichrome and another rebranded paste which I suspect is sourced from the same mfr as Simichrome.

This isn't to say Flitz isn't a good product. Some products are more finessed & subtle in how they work, which sometimes makes them safer for certain uses, and some will be more aggressive and faster at metal removal to a high polish. But either can be a good thing, depending on what you're doing and what your objective is. Matching the capability of the product to the job itself can be a smart thing, at times.
 
Timely find: this huge 'Edge Brand' Solingen Bowie was up in the garage rafters of an old house we bought. I scrubbed it and then used Flitz to get off all the surface rust, but it's still ugly. Is this a job for Puma?, or sandpaper :) But seriously, I've got every grit up to 3,000, plus a variety of sharpening stones. I was considering sanding until it gleams. The only issue would be the word 'BOWIE' on one side of the blade.

Here are the 'before' pics.

cU1KPkQ.jpg
 
Personally, I'd not sand that Bowie^ at all. Might instead use a combination of oil, or WD-40, etc., and fine steel wool to scrub ONLY the RED rust away. But the rest of the patina won't harm anything. Don't know what the collectible value of that knife might be; but sanding and polishing until it's ultra-shiny would likely only detract from the value of it. That dark patina will lend a lot of character in line with the age & history (albeit unknown) of that knife, and that's part of the appeal of such a find.

I'd at least wait until others might chime in as well, as to whether there's some value in that old knife.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Personally, I'd not sand that Bowie^ at all. Might instead use a combination of oil, or WD-40, etc., and fine steel wool to scrub ONLY the RED rust away. But the rest of the patina won't harm anything. Don't know what the collectible value of that knife might be; but sanding and polishing until it's ultra-shiny would likely only detract from the value of it. That dark patina will lend a lot of character in line with the age & history (albeit unknown) of that knife, and that's part of the appeal of such a find.

I'd at least wait until others might chime in as well, as to whether there's some value in that old knife.
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Thanks for the advice. Well, in that case it's done. I think it's ugly, as the 'patina' is largely just poor care and lacksadaisical sharpening efforts. I'll post pics later.
It has no real collectible value - maybe $80 - which is why I was thinking of practicing my 'shining' skills on it.
 
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