Looking this up, I keep seeing that it's for 'strops'. Is it the same as the Bark River strop paste? If so I'm set, and I'll try it out. Thanks.
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Staining on D2 Steel Blade
- Thread starter TheWildernessDude
- Start date
Look for Puma Knife Metal Polish Paste, it is not for a strop.
Green stick stuff is buffing compound for a strop.
They are two different products.
The knife metal polish paste is bubble gum pink in color, not the green product.
If you really want to get after it, a buffing wheel with the different grades of buffing compounds will handle the job.
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I'd not be surprised if the Puma pink paste is essentially the same, if not exactly so, as Simichrome. Both fit the description in terms of how they perform and for color (pink), and both sourced in Germany. I've also got an old tube of 'Metal Glo' paste polish distributed by United Cutlery and fitting the same color description and performance of Simichrome, and also sourced from Germany.
I've had both of those tubes since back in the 1990s. The 'Metal Glo' paste is actually marked as being produced in 'West Germany'... so it's from Germany's pre-unification period. Wouldn't be surprised if one plant there manufactured all of them, to be resold under many different brand names.
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Thanks - I ordered a tube and look forward to trying it out. Thanks for the recommendation.
K80Shooter
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I still have the shotgun so I'll get some pics up later this afternoon. The damage was not to the bluing, this is a Beretta AL390 Gold Sporting with gold inlays on silver side panels with the rest of the receiver in a matt black finish of some sort.
Apparently, there was some sort of protective coating on top of the side plates and receiver, and this was removed after extended usage. This was also in the early to mid 90's so there was no such thing as Google, so everyone just used what they and others thought was best. This was a $1,800.00 shotgun at the time with another $800.00 in upgrades from Ballistic Specialties so in all I had $2,600.00 in it. This was a competition gun which I shot extensively thus I cleaned it more often than the casual shooter would have. Did it harm the performance of it? Nope, just the looks. The bluing still looks great today. SO I guess for "some" finishes it works great but "others", not so much.
Thanks. Flitz isn't a cleaner, so using it repeatedly on the same item doesn't make sense to me. I assume it damaged the gun the first time you used it?
Flitz works okay. I use it to polish SAK scales that have been sanded for restoration. It won't perform miracles, but it will produce a decent shine as long as you did a thorough job sanding with increasingly higher grits of paper. Same goes for scratched up or corroded blades that have been sanded to fix. I don't do this too often so I'm not well practiced.
A lansky eraser block will often clean up surface corrosion but it can dull the finish and produce a lot of grit which tends to find its way into the pivots of folders. This can be a good or a bad thing depending on the situation.
A lansky eraser block will often clean up surface corrosion but it can dull the finish and produce a lot of grit which tends to find its way into the pivots of folders. This can be a good or a bad thing depending on the situation.
This is one of the reasons I avoid acquiring carbon steel knives. My personality won't allow me to "leave well enough alone", as they say.
This probably sounds like beating a dead horse, and maybe I'm misinterpreting your first paragraph, but Flitz is just a polish for removing tarnish and other minor surface staining that doesn't need something more abrasive like sandpaper. If metal has already been sanded, then the sandpaper alone would have already removed any of the 'patina' that Flitz is designed to remove. Any further 'shining' would be done with something abrasive like extremely fine grit sandpaper.
Our old carbon knives were almost always dark grey to black, with a super-shiny edge along the blade where the sharpening was done. Modern stainless always looked cheap and fake to me - I've only begun to appreciate and love it since lurking the knife forums.
You might be, but I'm not a mind reader.
The Flitz is used a final step after you've already done a proper sanding job.
Okay, I just don't use Flitz that way - that's using it as an abrasive, and I'd use micromesh pads (or similar) instead. But there is more than one way to skin a cat (you could even sand it
)Yeah, I'm just copying how I've seen other people use Flitz. I can clearly see that it makes a difference or I wouldn't bother. It gives me that last bit of extra polish that I can't really achieve with just sanding.Okay, I just don't use Flitz that way - that's using it as an abrasive, and I'd use micromesh pads (or similar) instead. But there is more than one way to skin a cat (you could even sand it
I was going to send you a message with information on micromesh pads, which I think you might like, but that function isn't available. In any case, if you are interested, googling should work. I have only used the pads on wood and plastic/rubber, but they should work fine on steel and might be easier and safer than Flitz.
I think Flitz is very safe and easy to use on steel, and plenty of other things. If anything it is a bit too gentle, requiring a significant amount of elbow grease to get noticeable results. I think people often expect polishes to just work by gently rubbing them on and then off, but that's not been my experience with Flitz. You have to apply a not insignificant amount of pressure for a decent amount of time for Flitz to do its job.
K80Shooter
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I never said or implied that it was a cleaner and never said that I used it every time. Did I use it more than once, sure I did, it made it look good so why not use it?
But to say that you only need to use it once just doesn't make sense for something that you use a lot.
You like the product, I get it, no problem. But I still stand by what I posted and will say that it is not for everything. Heck, they now even say it's not good for certian things.
You're welcome Scott.
"This was a competition gun which I shot extensively thus I cleaned it more often than the casual shooter would have. Did it harm the performance of it? Nope, just the looks."
K80Shooter
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And your point is? Show me where it says that I only used flitz.
Have it your way or any way you want it. I have my opinion and you have yours.
While this thread is still civil, I'm out of it.
No excuse for such a response. Ignored.
I'm now a Puma Paste convert for knife steel. Received two carving knives today that needed some help. Used Flitz first on both blades and bolsters, then went to Puma. There was a very quick and noticeable improvement - shinier and residue clean-up was also much easier.
So thanks again (I'm glad it arrived in a huge tube).