Stainless steel for bolsters

Joined
Oct 30, 2017
Messages
17
I am interested in using stainless for bolsters, and had a few questions. 1) does it need to be hardened to achieve max stainless properties, and 2) can I harden them in a propane forge. I know this isn't the right way, but will it be good enough? As always, I look forward to the collective guidance of the members, and thank you!
 
416 is a popular stainless for guards and bolsters. It can be hardened as it is in use for gun parts. I think in practice most knife makers don't harden it and don't run into issues with corrosion. I doubt you can do it in a forge.
 
When you're purchasing it make sure it's flat and square. I ordered some and it was kind of pillow shaped and had to be ground. Big PIA.
 
When Nickel Silver was hard to get I bought some 416 stainless for bolsters. I didn't harden it and never had problems. However it was extremely hard to get a good finish on it. At least for me.
 
Richard- thanks for the response, I appreciate it. Lcoop, what made it hard to finish? Can you tell me what process you used? Scott- I'm not too worried about the material as I have access to a surface grinder to true things up. Thanks for the info guys, I'll give 416 a shot.
 
I had a horrible time trying to get a high gloss finish. I once read Ed McCafferty say he knew numerous Journeymen blade smiths fail their test simply for that reason. I suppose if your going after a satin or brushed finish you'd be fine.
 
Last edited:
I guess I should phrase one of the original questions better- would heat treating in a forge increase the hardness of the material, or would it be a waste of time? Correct me if I'm wrong, but even marginally hardened material would increase wear resistance, wouldn't it? I'm thinking about scratch resistance. Not sure if I have all the metallurgy straight in my head, lol
 
No, HT in a forge would probably ruin the bolster. Proper HTing of 416 in a HT oven and foil packet would harden it a bit (Rc 35-40), but it is still difficult to get a mirror polish on.
 
I use 416 for guards and bolsters pretty much exclusively. It peins well, can be surface ground on a magnetic chuck, resists corrosion very well, and engravers love it.

I have never heat treated it and mirror polish the majority of the time with no issues. I hand sand to min 1200 grit before buffing. Loose buff with white compound first, then finish with loose buff and green compound.

Be sure to order 416 pinstock from your supplier.
 
I have a surface grinder as well. Not all stainless is magnetic meaning you'll need to figure out a way to hold it. I just used the belt grinder. Just something to keep in mind.
Richard- thanks for the response, I appreciate it. Lcoop, what made it hard to finish? Can you tell me what process you used? Scott- I'm not too worried about the material as I have access to a surface grinder to true things up. Thanks for the info guys, I'll give 416 a shot.
 
Back
Top