Stainless steel for bolsters

Bill DeShivs

Bill DeShivs

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Jun 6, 2000
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As nearly 100% of my work has been with classic materials, or on classic knives, I need to find out about stainless steels. I am planning on doing a series of custom knives with stainless bolsters instead of nickel silver. I will be using waterjet cut sheet stock. Strength is not a major concern, but corrosion resistance, workability and polish are.
What stainless do you guys recommend?
BTW, I may want to hand engrave some of these, so that may be a consideration. I'll ask some other engravers, and factor their comments into your advice.
Thanks!
Bill DeShivs
 
I agree the 300 series is pretty gummy and will use up drill bits, for bolsters that are not too thick not a real issue, I prefer 416. Make sure you get pins (assuming you are using pins) that match the steel so there is no color difference on peened and sanded.
 
416 is the free machining grade of 410 , with a higher sulfur content .That will help you to engrave also. I don't know the sources for 416 .The sulfur can vary .AFAIK only Crucible has upper limits on sulfur. I wonder if anyone on the forum can tell you of any problems with high sulfur 416 where the sulfides might pull out ???
 
Checking with your engraver is good......416 needs to be HT'd.....oil or air quench from 1800-1900
for 35-40 Rc. Many engravers prefer that 416 be drawn back to the low 20s Rc, but to get that, you'll
have to tamper high enough to slightly reduce corrosion resistance...25-30 Rc may be a good middle ground
to preserve corrosion resistance and cutting ease.
Soldering with a tin/silver solder will work well.
 
Russ brought up a point that is often missed by folks.......
Some stainless steel is not at its full stainless condition until heat treated. The martensitic stainless steels should be run through a HT and then tempered as needed.
416 can be hardened, or used as is. It looks a bit different, and has slightly better properties when hardened.
303 stainless steel is often used for plain bolsters. It is not hardenable, and is used as is.
 
txwoodchip said:
I use 416...tried some of the 300 series at one point, but didn't like it...too gummy.
Click to expand...

Really? What "300 series" stainless did you use? Probably 304 - the most easily attainable.
I use 303 with great regularity.
It has many desirable properties, one of which is that it's one of the most corrosion resistant.
Also, it contains sulfur, which makes it free machining - not "gummy" at all.
304 gave "300 series" a bad reputation because of its gummy properties making for broken bits, nasty engraving, doesn't mill or thread well, etc.
303 is fantastic!
Finishes well.
Machines well.
Its an austenitic steel - always in the condition of austenite from like 2500 degrees down to almost cryogenic temps.
Don't ever let ANYONE tell you that 303 comes anywhere near the properties of 304. Not even close.
"300 series" just means it's not martensitic.
It does NOT mean that it's not machinable.
Get yourself some 303 and have a great day.
 
I cant find 416 in sheets but 410 is plentiful and in a good array of thicknesses. Both polish nice.
 
yep.. just what Karl says .. its the 304 thats a real bad bugger to mill.. it'll stick n plug up your end mills and chippem out .. its just a shame as you can easily get 304 all over the place

but everybody's gotta try it, and see for them self... haha... just like patternwelding with 5160 ... blah !!!
 
I've found 303 to be easy work with, and 304 to be a pain in the backside.

Whatever grade you choose, use the same material for all parts. 303/304/416 look totally different when polished or media-blasted.
 
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