Stainless That Behaves Like Carbon?

I really like VG10. The heat treat on Fallkniven knives is pretty good. It will chip if you hit a nail or rock but it is not nearly as brittle as other stainless steels. You can't have everything, know what I mean?
 
M390 and ELMAX are as tough as many carbon steels and have awesome grain structure/ take a scary edge. I love stainless steels and I think M390 is hard to beat. You can be tough on it. My personal outdoor knife is .160 M390 at 62 and I baton with it, do hard cutting chores, and even some prying with it and I've never damaged it.
 
Doesn't D2 kinda fall between carbon and stainless? It's tough as nails to sharpen, but I never had any problems with corrosion. Just slap on some mineral oil :thumbup:
 
I have heard a lot about people beating the hell out of D2 and it coming back and asking for more. It will also resist rust respectably. It isn't stainless, it isn't carbon (alloy for sticklers), it is a confused jack of all trades.

I consider it a favorite steel for a reason, but it does tend to take a toothier edge.
 
If you like D2 you'll love CPM-3V. Similar wear- and corrosion-resistance, but much much tougher and finer-grained.
 
Correct, the patina on my 711 attests to this :). GREAT steel when heat treated right. My favorite steel by far.

There aren't many people that can do 52100 (SR101) like Busse. (Looks lovingly at my R9 and RMD)

I have heard a lot about people beating the hell out of D2 and it coming back and asking for more. It will also resist rust respectably. It isn't stainless, it isn't carbon (alloy for sticklers), it is a confused jack of all trades.

I consider it a favorite steel for a reason, but it does tend to take a toothier edge.

I do love me some D2. It does great with a high polish too.

If you like D2 you'll love CPM-3V. Similar wear- and corrosion-resistance, but much much tougher and finer-grained.

Good to know. I only have one knife with 3V. A spyderco tuff, I haven't sharpened it yet. I'll find out how it sharpens soon enough. I'm working on an S90V Manix2 XL right now. It's slow going trying to get a mirror finish.
 
Interesting read, thanks to all for sharing their knowledge and opinions. I'll have to give CPM-3V a shot. I'm a believer in the CPM process and results. Do they make a CPM version of D2?
 
Interesting read, thanks to all for sharing their knowledge and opinions. I'll have to give CPM-3V a shot. I'm a believer in the CPM process and results. Do they make a CPM version of D2?

Yes, but it's a little hard to find. For the money, there's really not that huge of an improvement over "regular" D2. I don't bother with it anymore, and just use CPM-3V instead.

I like CTS-XHP.

Truly an outstanding steel. Unfortunately, also a bit difficult to lay one's hands on.
 
Thanks Marthinus, I have a lot of respect for those recommendations just from reading some of your previous posts through the years. I think I'll give 13c26 and 14c28 a go, since I have also looked over R. Landes work, and I hear great things about both steels besides. From what I understand about AEB-L and Nitrobe-77, I think availability in a knife I want and can afford will be a limiting factor.I have tried 12c27, and it seemed just like an all-around upgrade to 440c to me.

Thank you for the kind words.

12C27 is a fine steel that can be heat treated to HRC 61 with deep freeze.

Sanvik: Deep freeze hardening for 12C27

As others have mentioned, heat treatment is key with these steels.

12C27 is also known as:

Standards

ASTM (420), (440A)
UNS S42000
W.Nr. (1.4034), (1.4037)

For the properties you are after (toughness, strength, ease of sharpening, and fine edge holding) AEB-L and 14C28N would be a good choice given proper heat treatment.

I do not know your budget, but for around 150 euro you could pick up a Gamma Brand hudson bay knife in 12C27.

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