stanley white's new edition

Gossman Knives said:
Here's Stan's other Tusker made with black micarta and SS hardware. I'll post another pic after I darken it with ferric acid.
Scott

swtusker.jpg
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Congrats Stanley she's a beaut!! Scott great job also, i've got a question though. Is the tip swedged or is it flat and kind of thick all the way to the tip at the top of the blade.
Thanks Doug
 
Doug,

Thank you for the complements!

The blade is flat and kind of thick all the way to the tip. No swedge.

-Stan
 
Here is the black handled Big Boar Tusker after a dip in ferric acid by my request.

For all of my user knives I force a patina by soaking the entire knife overnight in lemon juice.

When I found out Scott could do the same thing with ferric acid I decided to give it a go.

It is interesting how the ricasso turned brown.

Forced patinas are a great compromise between a bare blade and a coated blade. With a forced patina I get decent corrosion resistance while still being able to use the spine to strike a ferro rod or for other chores if needed.

Note that this patina can be sanded off if I so desired.

The BBT isn't as pretty as previous pictures but to me she is perfect!

-Stan



 
Unusual the way the forced patina went on. May have to do with the finish of the areas being patinaed.
Scott
 
stanley_white said:
Doug,

Thank you for the complements!

The blade is flat and kind of thick all the way to the tip. No swedge.

-Stan
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Thanks Stan i really like no swedge on that blade it just adds to the tip strength. I think you got one awesome knife there.:thumbup: Or is it two now.:thumbup::thumbup:

Doug
 
d762nato said:
Thanks Stan i really like no swedge on that blade it just adds to the tip strength. I think you got one awesome knife there.:thumbup: Or is it two now.:thumbup::thumbup:

Doug
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Thanks Doug.

I agree -- swedges are the enemy.

If buying a custom, when I can afford it, I buy two; one to use and one to store.

-Stan
 
I'd like to comment on swedges. IMO, they have the cool factor and look good but are not practical for a hard use outdoor blade. I feel they compromise point strength. If you are into batoning, the area that sees the most abuse or pounding is the point. With a swedge, I think you wouldn't get the downward force as you can with a thicker top portion of the point. When I baton, the main area that gets beat down into the wood is the point sticking out of the other end of the wood you are splitting. I push down on the handle and drive the blade down through the wood at the point end.
Scott
 
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