Started making my 1st grinder (3rd update) 9/27

What I did is run the bolt thru the threads in the plate and then lock the bolt on the outside with a nut. This allows me to set the lash between the bearing and plate so your not putting a side load on the bearings. This requires threads in the plate. Thus the reason I suggested the nut on the inside. I suppose you could leave a little lash and use a nyloc nut.
 
Well, they are drilled out. All of 30 seconds on the drill press. However it did take me about a hour of hand filing to clean up the arc. It ain't pretty but it works.
 
Last edited:
Antlerhog is right. Just drill out the threads and put in a 1/2 inch bolt and nylock nut. I see in your photo that you used a washer for a spacer. This is not good because the washer will usually rub the top race of the bearing. Use instead "machine bushings" which can be purchased at nut and bolt supply businesses or USA knifemakers in packs of ten. They have a 1/2 hole but a smaller diameter so as to not touch the outer bearing races. Get the ones that are about .043 thick each to make your spacing perfect. Drill out the threadson a drill press to keep the hole perpendicular. Easy peasy! Larry
 
John, trust me I understand. I'm on the road all week and have family responsibilities on the weekend. I get a few hours to myself a night when the family is in bed.
 
I got my 4"x 6" bandsaw up and running so I could make the mount for the idle wheel. It looks like I have plenty of travel. Still lots of finish sanding to do to make it look nicer.





As you can see in this pic, I have a bit of a angle I'm not happy about. I think I will enlarge the bolt hole some and see if I can make it straight. Worse case I make a new mount and do a better job of drilling it out. I need to slow down some.


I don't like where I tapped the hole for the adjustment. I think once I have everything locked down for the last time I will flatten the end of the 2 bolts and I should be okay.
 
This thread is great. Building your own stuff can be very rewarding. At the same time, this thread shows that building a grinder is not just cutting, drilling and tapping. Remaining square is very important. A tapping block can be helpful if truly tapping by hand or just use a tap in the drill press under power or a spring loaded center and tap handle in a drill press with power off. You are sure to be square if the part was perpendicular to the spindle in th first place.

Good job.
 
the easiest way to fix the out of square is to drill one of the two bolt holes that hold the block to the pivot arm bigger. or better yet slot one out. this will allow you to pivot the wheel straight and then tighten the bolts.
 
Mike-E, that is a option. Of course slotting for me means a file, and in 1/2" steel that won't be fun :)

It is not off real bad, so I think I will roll with it right now and wait and see if I have tracking issues. I can always go back and do it if needed.
 
In a bit of irony, I sold my 1"x 42" belt sander I wasn't using to help fund this project, but it would really have come in handy on a few pieces so far :rolleyes:
 
you have a saw, you could cut a open ended slot on the hole that needs to be moved further from the arm. a belt grinder comes in handy when building a belt grinder.
 
Great job - and I like the way you're progressing. You are doing very good work.

Ken H>
 
Been a long time. I just picked up a 2hp 3ph motor 1725 rpm. If I checked all the specs right it should work fine with a VFD. I also did a little work on the grinder. Started working on the stand.

 
That's a good looking motor!! Just right - some folks perhaps need 3 hp to go 6,000 SFPM, but 2 hp is a big plenty for anything I've wanted to do.
 
I figured out the motor mount for the new VS motor. Need to head to the scrap yard and find a 3/8"x 7" x 9" steel plate for the motor and get it welded to the grey angle in the pic below. I had some fun mocking it it up and figured the spacing for the idler pull inside the uprights. Will need a 3/4" & a 1/2" spacer to place it in line with the front pulleys.



 
Picked up a piece of steel plate for the motor mount. The bolts are temporary until I get the plate welded to the 2 pieces of angle. I drilled and bolted it in place to keep the alignment.


 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top