Starting With Three

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flakjacket

Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
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I've been wanting to make my own knife for years, so I finally decided to buy a piece of steel and get busy. I bought a large piece of 1/4" thick 440C and got started. Well, I'm not even fully done with my first knife and I'm already hooked. So I've started two more. The second one is the other half of the original piece of steel and the third is an entirely different piece. So far, I've only been using a drill press, files, and a hacksaw, with a little detail work left for the Dremel. I did just pick up a belt sander and have used it on the bottom knife in the picture and it looks like it's going to work nicely.

The first knife is pretty much ready for heat treat. It has black linen micarta handle slabs and stainless fasteners. It's at 120 grit right now, but I'm going to go to 240 before I send it off. Here's what I'm having trouble with. How sharp (or unsharpened) should it be before I send it for heat treat? Right now, I have no primary bevel on it at all. It is sharp enough to cut string if you really press hard. I'm assuming that I should put a primary edge bevel prior to H/T but I don't want the blade to crack during H/T. If I do put a primary bevel on it, should I leave it fairly dull to prevent cracking?

The second knife is in progress and the third is a kitchen knife for my mother in law. She has a horrible selection of kitchen knives so I told her I'd make her one for a late Christmas present. Now I have a buddy asking for one and possibly another friend that is interested. It's been so damn cold here that I haven't spent much time on them in the last couple of weeks, but I did get out there tonight and worked a little and took pics. I'm new at posting pictures so they might not show up until I figure this out.

Ok, until then...try this link

http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj53/flakjaket/?action=view&current=IMG_0915.jpg


flakjaket
 
With 440C it is normally air quenched so the edge can be fairly fine. Most of us leave between .02-.03 or more to prevent cracking or wrinkling, but I use carbon steel and quench in oil. Still I would dull the edge back a bit if for nothing else safety in finishing. One slip and you could be out of commission for a while.

Chuck
 
looking good so far. That is how I am working right now (minus the dremel tool, drill press and the belt sander) so just files, mini hack saw, hand drill.

I have heard that you want about a dime thickness on the edge to be sure you don't warp or crack.
 
I got a 4x36 belt sander with a 9 inch disc on the side. I'm using it for woodworking as well, since I always have various shelves and some other projects going on. I think a narrower belt with faster speeds would be a lot nicer. I would love a KMG. I've seen videos of them on youtube and they look sweet. Thanks for the infoeveryone.
 
I like your picure. A further point to the blade thickness.

Your top knife with the hlf blade bevel gives you a stronger blade for general purpous chopping and hacking.

For a kitchen knife a half blade grind bevel works on the thin blade stock. However on a thicker blade stock you will get a better slicing blade if the bevel starts at the cuting edge and goes all the way to the back edge. That makes the angle smaller and the blade thinner. With a half grind you need to push a bit harder.

looking good so far.
 
looking good for limited tools and first knives. I would think about a different grinder down the road too, I think it may be tough on such a thick belt. Keep us posted.
 
Yeah, the kitchen knife is 5/32 so I was planning on a full bevel to make a good slicer. I didn't want to go as thin as 1/8 inch because I guess I like to over build everything. The top knife is intended to be a heavy user. Batoning and such while camping. I think on the knife in the middle I'm going to take the bevel up further but not all the way.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
I leave 1/3 of the orginal thickness, on 5/32 that would be 0.05" then I would sand after HT to 0.02 for a chopper and 0.015 for a kitchen or cutter. If you are going to use the sander make sure you use a new belt and cool the blade in water after each pass to prevent ruin of your HT. When the blade is wet you can see the water evaporate as you grind, when the water is gone you are headed for trouble. When you get pretty thin go to hand sanding with a wood block and strips of paper. I start as rough as 220 but usually 320, 400, 600 and 800. All available at automotive part stores.
 
Looks good man, i am in the same boat, started of a something fun and new to do in November 07.....Wel curently i have 4 knives i am working on with the one almost ready for heat treating.....

It is really satisfying to get into the garage after a day in the office and see the changes coming about when you file, sand and do what ever it takes to get that blade perfect...

Good luck with the rest.
 
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