Staying razor sharp

I have a few knives in different steels, and i`ve been sharpening them to hair shaving sharpness. But what im getting is im losing this edge rather quickly on any kind of steel, with normal edc use. I mean they`re still cutting paper, but not shaving.

So question is - should I see longer shaving sharpness on higher-end steels? All my stuff is one of those: s30v s35vn 154cm m4 d2 20cv

Secondly, is it possible to get it back to razor with only stropping (i have white & green compound ones)? I was not able to get it this way, but that may be because of a simple lack of proper stropping skill... Or might be due to those compounds dont actually do much to certain steels (m4, d2?)..

thanks
No, not especially. There is a reason razors are made from simple alloys without carbides. It is not just cost.

Edge stability. Alloys which have carbides do not have it. A "shaving sharp edge" that lasts a long time requires it.
High end wear resistant steels such as M4, D2, and anything with more than about 0.6% carbon contain carbides. They are like the aggregate in concrete. But what you want for maintaining a razor edge as it wears is pure cement. i.e. no carbides.

Suppose you put a polished "razor edge" on blade steel containing carbides. As the edge wears, the carbides are exposed. They make little bumps on your polished edge. There goes your shaving edge.
Now do the same thing with a non-carbide steel such as 13C26 hardened to a 61. As the edge wears, it remains smooth, so it retains it's shaving sharp edge longer.

A simple non-carbide steel will retain a shaving edge longer than a carbide containing steel will.
But a carbide containing steel will continue to cut long after the simple steel has gone completely dull.

Now personally, I don't put a shaving sharp edge on my blades because I find a slightly rougher edge works better for the things that I cut. (mostly plastics and cardboard). And I prefer carbide containing alloys for the same reason. But if I needed a shaving sharp edge and wanted it to last as long as possible, I would go find some alloy without carbides and make sure the maker hardened it to as high a level as possible.
 
Great info everyone.

So from what I understand it will work similarly with any angle? 30 vs 40 degrees would lose shaving sharpness equally?

Then theres grit, it can be 400 grit plain shaving or highly polished stropped etc..

From what i know, low grit would produce a toothy edge, thinking like micro serrations. Serrations dull slower?
On the other hand high grit polish is thought of as being more durable? Thus high grit dulls slower?
 
My daily is s35vn (sebenza) and I found it decent for daily use. I will cut boxes of frozen items daily, cut thin plastics like ground tuna packaging, cigar wrapping, and other random things.

I used to go further with strops and diamond compounds for intense thin edges that will whittle hair and toilet paper, I found that to be a huge waste of time for daily use, maybe cool to show off.

A 1000 grit and 2000 grit will suffice for probably all your normal needs of a knife. Theres plenty of people who dont even know how to sharpen and can use their blade.

I'm lucky to have stones at work and at home.
 
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