steel 4 broad bowie/machete type camp knife

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Aug 21, 2008
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hey just wanted a general concensus of your thoughts on the subject and why. Any and all recommendations and advice is welcomed and appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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You need to give some thought to how you are going to heat treat a large blade. Very few outside places will do oil quench so that limits you if you want someone else to ht. I use O1 when I do my own HT and A2 which is a air hardening when I sent it out.
 
I'm with Dewey! 5160 is a rock solid choice for a heavy cutter. It is in many makers opinions, the PERFECT steel for such uses. It's easy to obtain. Easy to heat treat. Easy to shape. It takes a mean edge, holds it all day, and seems to love abuse. (heavy work, not neglect) it's a deep hardening steel yet it will remain flexible enough to take ALOT of punishment. any way thats my .02 worth

Jason
 
Hi friend,

I wonder how big is big for your choppers? More specifically I wonder what your hardening and tempering heat sources are, as well as what your quenching system is. I'm wondering this because I've an order for a few simple bolos (Filipino machetes) and am not sure how I'll go about it.

Thanks, Phil
 
Phill
(As taken from... http://www.knivesby.com )
5160 steel spec's and heat treating
from the ASM manual:
5160, 5160H, 5160RH

5160 AISI 5160H AISI
Carbon 0.56 to 0.64 Carbon 0.55 to 0.65
Manganese 0.75 to 1.00 Manganese 0.65 to 1.00
Phosphorus 0.035 Max Silicon 0.15 to 0.35
Sulfur 0.040 Max Chromium 0.60 to 1.00
Silicon 0.15 to 0.30
Chromium 0.70 to 0.90

5160RH AISI
Carbon 0.56 to 0.64
Manganese 0.75 to 1.00
Silicon 0.15 to 0.35
Chromium 0.70 to 0.90

Considered a high-carbon alloy steel. As quenched hardness of 58 to 63 HRC. Used for a variety of spring
applications, notably flat springs. Often uses Austempering as a method of heat-treating.

Forging max heat 2200 degrees F.
Do not forge below 1600 degrees F.

Normalizing - heat to 1600 F and cool in air.

Annealing – for predominately pearlite structure heat to 1525 F cool rapidly to 1300 F then cool to 1200 F at a rate
not to exceed 20 F per hour – or, heat to 1525 F cool rapidly to 1245 F and hold for 6 hours.

For predominately spheroidized structure heat to 1380 F cool rapidly to 1300 F then cool to 1200 F at a rate not to
exceed 10 F per hour – or, heat to 1380 F cool rapidly to 1245 F and hold for 10 hours.

Hardening – austenitize at 1525 F and quench in oil or polymer. Gas nitriding and ion nitriding are suitable processes.

Austempering - austenitize at 1555 F and quench in molten salt bath at 600 F. Hold for one hour, cool in air, needs no tempering, approximately 46 to 52 HRC is obtained

I'm adding this because the above was writen for tool / spring steel use.
52 is low for a knife
lower molten salt bath to about 400 - 450 F
depending on the use of the knife.
 
Wow, that's a mouthful of information. Thanks for spending so much time posting it! I'm not sure what I can do with it all at this point, as I don't have controllable heat treat devices yet. In fact, just to deal with the length of the blades seems a challenge. I was wonder what MilliePop, and others, used for devices for heat treating. Do you guys use your forge or a separate oven? I've been doing all my work in a coke forge, but put together a forced air propane forge, with Indian George's help, this summer. I certainly can heat longer stock in it, but haven't put together any heat measuring/monitoring/controlling devices yet. Won't have any salt pots for a while either. I have settled on 5160 though. ;)
 
I am not sure how to attach links to other threads, but the guys here gave me some good info when I posed some questions in thread "NooB 5160 Questions"
 
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