steel finish

Kevin McGovern

Kevin McGovern

Joined
Jul 31, 2015
Messages
3,118
I have never purchased a new car. One reason is i know I will cry like a baby when it gets scratched the first time. My thinking is similar on blade finishes. I like both satin and mirror finishes, and would take the time to do a mirror finish, but I figure it will show scratches easier. What is the current wisdom on this?
 
I'm curious as well. I've done buffed finish, scotch brite finish, tumbled ceramic media finish and cork belt finish. So far, the ceramic tumbled finish is the most resistant to scratches - that can be seen by a cursory glance. No matter what, it's going to get scratched.

My issue right now is with grit getting into the kydex and making awesome scratches as seen on your latest knife. I used one layer of tape last time and will try two next. Also going to make a clean room in my shop for just the kydex part of the process.
 
Hand rubbed finishes work good in kydex sheaths. Any scratches that do show up will be inline with the scratches you laid down by hand.
 
if you plan on using it scratches are inevitable ... just like a brand new vehicle. i bought my dodge brand new in 2013 ... it's scratched and chipped from rocks from the gravel roads. I still love it ... treats me well. sometimes no matter how hard you try you seem to find a new scuff on your favorite rifle when you pull it out the safe ... i've learned over the years to take care of my stuff and maintain it ... but above all ... don't be afraid to use it. i find scratches and scuff marks give an item character ... just like that ww2 enfield or k98 ... every mark has a story.
 
Polished finishes do show up scratches pretty easy but most will buff back out. Even with a hand rubbed finish it's tough to keep them from getting scratched, even just in and out of a leather sheath.
 
I use Scotch Brite belts for this exact reason. It is a surface of scratches to start with, and hides new scratches well. Refurbishing the finish takes seconds, not hours. The vertical scratch pattern is very good on kitchen and other user blades. A classic hand rubbed finish going down the blade parallel with the edge is a bit more attractive, but takes a lot longer to accomplish ... by hand.

TIP:
With some skill and practice, a Scotch Brite belt running on a large wheel can be used to make a fair replica of a hand finished blade. Run the wheel slow, and start up on the tang. With the blade below the wheel and pointing inline with the belt, pull the blade toward you across the lower contact surface of the wheel ... almost laying flat on the bottom of the belt. Pull it smoothly until the tip comes straight off the wheel. Always pull the blade toward you ( against the rotation of the wheel), and always tip pointing away from you. I sometimes do the plunge area by hand first using 120 grit paper, and then blend it in with the belt. A few final strokes by hand with the appropriate grade of paper usually leaves the blade quite attractive. Perhaps not Nick Wheeler Bowie/fighter grade, but quite passable for a user.
 
I use the medium and fine mostly.

Medium leaves a "factory finish" that resembles fine grind lines (take it to 220 grit first). Fine/Very Fine leave a nice finish once you grind to 400 grit.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I use Scotch Brite belts for this exact reason. It is a surface of scratches to start with, and hides new scratches well. Refurbishing the finish takes seconds, not hours. The vertical scratch pattern is very good on kitchen and other user blades. A classic hand rubbed finish going down the blade parallel with the edge is a bit more attractive, but takes a lot longer to accomplish ... by hand.

TIP:
With some skill and practice, a Scotch Brite belt running on a large wheel can be used to make a fair replica of a hand finished blade. Run the wheel slow, and start up on the tang. With the blade below the wheel and pointing inline with the belt, pull the blade toward you across the lower contact surface of the wheel ... almost laying flat on the bottom of the belt. Pull it smoothly until the tip comes straight off the wheel. Always pull the blade toward you ( against the rotation of the wheel), and always tip pointing away from you. I sometimes do the plunge area by hand first using 120 grit paper, and then blend it in with the belt. A few final strokes by hand with the appropriate grade of paper usually leaves the blade quite attractive. Perhaps not Nick Wheeler Bowie/fighter grade, but quite passable for a user.
Click to expand...

Interesting ... I'm only starting to hear about these different belts now.
 
I do as Stacey shared and use the grey belt. Be careful because it will wash out the edges and plunges. I use it on plungeless knives.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I use Scotch Brite belts for this exact reason. It is a surface of scratches to start with, and hides new scratches well. Refurbishing the finish takes seconds, not hours. The vertical scratch pattern is very good on kitchen and other user blades. A classic hand rubbed finish going down the blade parallel with the edge is a bit more attractive, but takes a lot longer to accomplish ... by hand.

TIP:
With some skill and practice, a Scotch Brite belt running on a large wheel can be used to make a fair replica of a hand finished blade. Run the wheel slow, and start up on the tang. With the blade below the wheel and pointing inline with the belt, pull the blade toward you across the lower contact surface of the wheel ... almost laying flat on the bottom of the belt. Pull it smoothly until the tip comes straight off the wheel. Always pull the blade toward you ( against the rotation of the wheel), and always tip pointing away from you. I sometimes do the plunge area by hand first using 120 grit paper, and then blend it in with the belt. A few final strokes by hand with the appropriate grade of paper usually leaves the blade quite attractive. Perhaps not Nick Wheeler Bowie/fighter grade, but quite passable for a user.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea, I need to try that!
 
If You like mirror finish You can use DLC (or other) coating. It gets scratches very hardly.
 
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