Steel fittings vs. Brass fittings

Fed - I've been using auto wax also (a. because I had some, and b.-see a.) and chose the liquid because I thought it would cover-penetrate better on the more porous brass. Any opinion? Trivial, and bth probably work, but you said you had some for a year or more, so I thought I'd ask.
 
Just been usin a paste turtle wax, just because it was the cheapest at Wally world at the time. Havent tried the liquid (well my little can is still almost full so figured I didnt need to buy something else), though I wouldnt be surprised if the liquid works just as good or better. Anyways, I always figured if I really wanted to go the proper route Id try and get the proper thing, but that takes the fun outa the lazy maintenence that I was shootin for when I gotta start thinking about which is better paste or liquid. :D
 
Like I said - because it was there :) Actually, this is the same bottle I got years ago, when I read the article on detailing customs cars, in which the CEO of Turtle Wax, and the CEO of Armor All agreed that Armor All acted as a binder,between coats of the wax, and gave a deeper, more durable shine - That's when I started wondering what else it might work with, and paired it up with Tru Oil. There are Jr. High age kids on the block, who are younger than this bottle of wax. :p
 
Wal,
I've seen you refer to that article a few times and its intrigued me. Do you have any idea of the magazine or the time frame?
 
Roger, the only car mag I subscribed to was "Car and Driver", and I believe it was one of their's (but nowdays I'm not sure what I had for breakfast, and it's alway the same damn thing :)) I put five coats on the then-current car, per their procedure, and it looked like the surface of a reflecting pool, and about two feet deep. That was the last real detailing I was able to do before I started falling apart, which puts it in the spring or summer of '88. The process was to apply, let dry, and buff out a coat of wax - apply AA from an atomizer, spread with a damp sponge, let dry and, without buffing, apply another coat of wax over the AA film. Buffing the second and successive coats was tedious,(leaving a day between them) but when you got through to the shine, it was glorious. IIRC, that was the last time that heap got a wax job, and it would bead rainwater 18 mos. later. Seems to be about the same on Khuk handles :D
 
i have two khukuris with broken bolsters. one is brass fitted, and the other is steel fitted. the bolsters were both broken off in the same fashion. i missed with a chop, and the bolster impacted a hard surface. the bolster split at a visble seam. i had a question to ask. with the radical change in handle design with the advent of finger grooves in a bura-made ghopte, would it be possible to ask the kamis if they would design a khuk in the 18" range, with either option: 1. no bolster chiruwa design
2. integral bolster A. chiruwa
B. rat tail
3. all-metal knife with handle, bolster, blade all in piece.





p.s. the two khuks without bolsters are still loved by me, and they are still used a lot. however, they are reluctant to be seen in public with out bolsters on.
 
Originally posted by Walosi
Roger, the only car mag I subscribed to was "Car and Driver", and I believe it was one of their's (but nowdays I'm not sure what I had for breakfast, and it's alway the same damn thing :)) I put five coats on the then-current car, per their procedure, and it looked like the surface of a reflecting pool, and about two feet deep. That was the last real detailing I was able to do before I started falling apart, which puts it in the spring or summer of '88. The process was to apply, let dry, and buff out a coat of wax - apply AA from an atomizer, spread with a damp sponge, let dry and, without buffing, apply another coat of wax over the AA film. Buffing the second and successive coats was tedious,(leaving a day between them) but when you got through to the shine, it was glorious. IIRC, that was the last time that heap got a wax job, and it would bead rainwater 18 mos. later. Seems to be about the same on Khuk handles :D
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Thanks Walosi!
I'll have to try it on my khuks and on my '59 Cadillac! With her upcoming paint job, it'll probably look as good as a kothimoda.
Well.....Nearly.
 
Rog - Before you use my old formula on the old gal, check out Turtle Wax and ArmorAll websites, and your auto parts shelves - I know ArmorAll has kept going in this direction (they have some sort of wash and wax kit) and when I tried to get the other, I got a disconnect. I'm sure AA s still the same polymer it always was, but they may each have developed their own products from this early collaboration. The thing that hit me about the article in the first place was two CEOs bragging up the other's product, and urging their combination. "Business images" being what they are, AA obviously wanted to be known as good for more than sidewall shine-up, and Turtle Wax wouldn't have held still too long looking like "something else" was needed to make their wax look better. They could have even merged by now, for all I know :)
 
The knife will keep working without the bolster. You could probably empoxy them back in place with good success. Epoxy and clamp and they should stay put.
 
Wal,
After I thought about it I wondered if the AA would soften the paint?
Did you have any problems?
 
The AA goes on atop the first coat of wax, so it probably doesn't penetrate to the paint. Even so, as a polymer "strengthener" it should have no adverse effect. Your body shop can tell you how long to wait before you apply anything to your new paint - there is a curing period beyond the drying they do, when nothing should be applied. I've known purists who would park their rides in the living room while the paint cured, if the doors were big enough, and Harley riders who DID. One of the more civilized brought just his tank and fenders indoors while the paint cured, but his nickname was "Sis". :rolleyes:
 
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