steel for forging a hawk (and temper for it)

S

SR_matt

Joined
Jan 4, 2007
Messages
623
ok so im taking a short class on forging this semester and with having forged non ferrous (copper and silver) and the habit of working fast from my glass blowing, this has come very easy to me (yay ;) ). so i want to forge a few hawks. i might do one or 2 very decorative but i still want the functionality being there. i also plan to make a modern, tac style-ish hawk that will be a utility tool. so my question is what steels to look to. i have access to a propane forge (no blower), if that matters as to my steel choice and as to tempering my options are tempering by colors (i know not the best way but thats how we usually have to go for our small tool making) or a kitchen oven, and of course sending it out.

i was told w1/1095 would be good by my instructor but i want to hear some good options, im not all about going over board on more exotic steels cause if (when) i mess up i dont want to be out a large chunk of cash. and finally what temper should i take the suggested steels to

thanks
-matt
 
When using a kitchen oven, make sure you measure the actual temperature because they have a tendency to be way off.
 
I forge a lot of hawks from ball pein hammer heads. HF sells them for a few bucks each, or a set of five for $13. the 16 and 20oz. size make nice hawks. The steel seems to be 4140, and I water quench the edges and spikes. I temper at 400F. Yard sales are another great source of 1$ hammers.

You draw the ball into a spike, and forge the head out into the hawk blade.Don't curve the spike until after you have forged out the blade, or it will get in your way. I leave the spike as a round taper until the blade is done, then flatten the sides and curve it. A 16-20 oz. hammer head makes a nice mouse hawk. A 24 oz. head makes a good kindling splitter ( I forge the ball into a splitting wedge shape, and the head into a hawk blade). A 12-14 ounce head makes a fast and fun project, and the small hawk looks great sitting on the hearth by the wood stack. BTW, I call my hawks, "Kindling Hawks". I use the handle from the old hammer ( turned around and shaped to fit the hawk drift) for the hawk handle. I drill two holes in the handle and wrap then with paracord. I'll try and shoot a photo of one tonight for you.

You will need a hawk drift. A pair of tongs made to hold round cylinders is good. While forging, holding the head by the eye with utility tongs or right angle tongs makes for less chasing a pound of red hot metal across the floor. I made a set of tongs to hold the head, but usually just hold it by the eye.

For the HT- after the hawk is forged, cleaned up on the grinder, and ready to harden, heat the hawk to about 1550F and quench 1" of the edge into warm water. Hold it there until the entire piece turns black, then dunk it to cool off. Heat the spike to 1550F, avoiding getting the hardened blade too hot, and quench about half its length in water. Let cool to black and dunk as you did with the blade.

Use a round file to clean up the drift hole before making the handle.
Start by roughly shaping the handle piece into a teardrop until the hawk goes about half way on. Slip it on and give it a few firm taps with a wooden mallet ( or a piece of 2X4). Thunk the butt on the counter and the hawk will slip back down. Grind down the darkened areas where the hawk rubbed the handle. Continue to refine the handle and make it smaller until it has about 1.5-2" to go ( hopefully it is a pretty good fit by now,too). Sand the handle to 400 grit, and do any other work to the hawk. When all is ready for assembly, put the hawk on the handle and drive it on tight with the mallet. you should leave about 3/4 to 1" sticking out. Finish as you wish.

I drill a 3/16" hole half way through the handle about 6-7" from the butt, and one completely through the handle about 1" from the butt. Put a drop of super glue on the end of some paracord. Clip it off to make a hard end about 1/4" long. Stick this in the upper hole and wind the paracord around the handle ( you can add a drop of glue to lock the paracord in if you wish). Wrap until you get to the bottom hole. About 12" longer on the cord, apply some super glue, let it set, and clip the cord ( making an aiglet).
Pull this through the hole. Start at the upper part and twist the paracord tight as you also push it upward to make the wrap snug. Ad a few wraps at the butt if needed. When the cord is tight and all is right. put a drop of super glue on the cord where it exits the handle. Cut flush with a sharp blade. This makes one of the best utility handles I know of. Colored paracord is good here. I like the orange or the multi color "camo".

Stacy
 
thanks stacy, i might have some friends that have larger HF hammers (we all bout the sets they sell to make planishing hammers and of curse you cant do much with the larger ones)

that is a pretty cool and fast way to make a simple hawk so i will probably try that as well. i do want to make some from total scratch though, mostly as a yes i can do it but once i do that i can see some easily make smoking hawks out of those HF hammers, just have to flatten off the ball and make it more cylindrical, and make the blade then drill it out the pipe

mike what temper do you do on that?

codtd ya, i learned the hard way out off my oven was when i was trying to make come gluten free corn bread (the gluten free stuff seems very temperamental about temperature) and the out sides had to get super dry before the insides even set up... then realized the temps were a lot lower than what read. got a nice little stocking stuffer from my mom that xmas of an oven thermometer

thanks everyone, any other suggestions will be greatly appreciated too
-matt
 
I heat the 5160 to a cherry and edge quench in thin oil (mcmaster-carr 11 second oil)
Hold in till all color is gone. Temper in oven at 450.

I have been trying to learn the more traditional methods in the past year, which would be edge quenching in water then letting the heat rise to temper in one step.

This video will make more sense than me tiring to explain.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbCpDsxUHVc
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top