Steel for showing off (razor edge)

Any idea what the grain size is or where to find it?

I read it someplace years ago, and was told the same a number of times..

The info is out there, just have to do a search. :)

You could always email CRUCIBLE too.

METE could likely pull up the info faster than anyone...
 
I can't hang in there with all the real steel gurus that have answered, but as far as a couple of practical knife suggestions for showing off and not breaking the bank, you could try a Spyderco Caly 3 in ZDP-189 & CF or a Gayle Bradley AIR in CPM-M4. Another ZDP-189 knife that's very well done is A. G. Russell's small Acies folder. Kershaw makes it for him and the one I had was like a straight razor. It was impressive, even compared to Spyderco's ZDP-189 offerings.
 
I've checked Crucibles data sheets, but to no avail. A call or email may be the only way to go.
 
I've checked Crucibles data sheets, but to no avail. A call or email may be the only way to go.

Actual data is hard to find as in a comparison chart..... And usually not free....

So yeah an email or a call...
 
I own a 1095 Carbon steel Imperial Ireland camper friction folder. Holds a razor edge for a very long time. And dan easy to sharpen too. Couple dozen strokes on a Stone and you're good to go. I have EDCed that one knife for 4 years and counting.
Bottom line : l recommend 1095 carbon steel. If you prefer stainless steel then l should recommend 440c. I own a Robert PARRISH 8" survivor in that steel made in 1987. Holds an edge for months. Believe me. I've taken it with me to 7 hunting trips. Always serves me well.

1095 is commonly used for straight razors. Problem with what the OP wants to do is that to have the sharpest edge one has to have very thin grind, that means the edge just can't last since there is not enough support behind it.
 
I will give CPM-M4 a try. I have a shot show Griptillian that is more or less untouched. I will have to thin the edge behind it.
 
This is a knife that will likely be sharpened often, but will mainly be used to cut arm hair and paper. Hence the knife for "showing off".

So basically a razor blade? For ease of sharpening, get the hardest steel you can in the thinnest geometry you can, but know that 1095 or 1084 or 52100 or 13C26 and the like will be cheaper than PM steels. The point of ZDP-189 and CPM-M4 is how hard they can be made and how wear-resistant they are, and even production manufacturers seem to try for high Rc values with those steels, whereas they leave others softer to maintain toughness. But for the use you describe, you don't really need much toughness. Then again, if you plan to resharpen frequently, you don't really need all that high of hardness, just an ultra-fine hone at the ready as with face-shaving, doesn't even need to be that fine, 1200 grit would do.

Getting high hardness ZDP or M4 in a thin grind would simply reduce how often you need to resharpen. If you don't care about that, then...
 
I was thinking of D2, maybe a Benchmade Bone Collector, something with a slicer kind of grind. A high hollow grind would be best, of course, because it would likely be the thinnest behind the cutting edge, but a full flat grind is no kind of slouch in cutting, especially in a taller (broader) blade like the Endura.

My collection boasts a couple of D2 blades, one is a composite blade Kershaw Leek. I really like it. It was my "gateway" knife that led me to this bad end. :)
The Leek is very sharp.

Speaking of which, my ZDP Endura is scary sharp, and I sharpen it on an Edge Pro myself, followed by a stropping on green chromium oxide. Nothing like a mirror polish on that cutting edge to let you feel like you've done something worthwhile with your evening. :) I can whittle copier paper down to the fibers, which is no great feat, I suppose, but it impresses me.

The one knife that continually surprises me is the Benchmade 530 in CPM 154. Not supposed to be a state of the art super steel or anything, but wow does it get sharp! And stays sharp! And it's very light. The Gold Class 531 can't touch it.

Another surprising knife for me is my Ladybug in ZDP. I keep it on my keychain. Small, but unbelievably sharp! I have the scar to prove it!

Comes to that, my girlfriend's VG-10 Delica is quite possibly the sharpest knife I know personally. She has a small collection of them and I keep them sharp for her.

On the other hand, maybe I just suck at sharpening and everything feels sharp to me. :) :) :)

Edited to add: I have the good fortune to have a CRK Mnandi with a Devin Thomas damascus blade and AEB-L is one of the alloys used. 304 stainless is the other. Yes, yes, mammoth ivory and a damascus blade, I know. Still, it's a fricken razor!
 
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Small carbides are important here ,that requires a powder type such as CPM. There are people on this forum who make straight razors -a good source for info.
Remember that while we talk a lot about steel, the edge shape is just as important !! I'll bet that the S35VN is one of the favorites for straight razors =wear resistant ,easy to sharpen, fine edge. Don't ask me to test straight razors ,I like my face as is !
The definition of sharp is what is the minimum radius of the edge it can be sharpened to ! Glass for instance is sharper than steel and is used fo special surgery.
 
Small carbides are important here ,that requires a powder type such as CPM. There are people on this forum who make straight razors -a good source for info.
Remember that while we talk a lot about steel, the edge shape is just as important !! I'll bet that the S35VN is one of the favorites for straight razors =wear resistant ,easy to sharpen, fine edge. Don't ask me to test straight razors ,I like my face as is !
The definition of sharp is what is the minimum radius of the edge it can be sharpened to ! Glass for instance is sharper than steel and is used fo special surgery.

Most straight razors, scalpels, surgical scissors, razor-blade utility knives, etc. are made out of MUCH cheaper steel - 1084, Aus6, 52100, AEB-L, 420, 440A, etc. Microtome blades (having the most precise and thin apex diameters for ultra-thin sectioning) are also usually made out of these cheaper materials although tungsten-carbide, glass, synthetic sapphire, and even diamond are available. There is no need to use PM-steels for such applications... but I may be wrong
 
Most straight razors, scalpels, surgical scissors, razor-blade utility knives, etc. are made out of MUCH cheaper steel - 1084, Aus6, 52100, AEB-L, 420, 440A, etc. Microtome blades (having the most precise and thin apex diameters for ultra-thin sectioning) are also usually made out of these cheaper materials although tungsten-carbide, glass, synthetic sapphire, and even diamond are available. There is no need to use PM-steels for such applications... but I may be wrong

Most of that has to do with cost as most of those items are disposable...

Except for straight razors, a lot of those have been made out of a variety of steels including some of the high alloy types. It all depends on who made them and what budget the customers have in the end... Usually they are made from the lower alloy steels to make them easier to maintain as in sharpen....
 
Seems to me there might be a little over- thinking. A gread point of reference is going to be kitchen knives. It may not be the most sexy choice but plain old VG 10 would be tough to beat. Esp. if taken to 60 +. As as already been said, AEBL/13C 26N or 14c 28n are also great choices. Personally, several Mcusta models with laminated VG 10 steel blades make EXCEPTIONAL gent folders that are beautiful, reasonably priced, and laser sharp, imho of course...
 
Most of that has to do with cost as most of those items are disposable...

Except for straight razors, a lot of those have been made out of a variety of steels including some of the high alloy types. It all depends on who made them and what budget the customers have in the end... Usually they are made from the lower alloy steels to make them easier to maintain as in sharpen....
I miss the old days when a Barber would strop that razor!
 
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