vwb563
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2007
- Messages
- 3,093
I 100% agree with that statement! What ever in the heck type of stainlees they use is a very consistant and great performer! :thumbup:
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Steel Home Runs
- Thread starter sodak
- Start date
I 100% agree with that statement! What ever in the heck type of stainlees they use is a very consistant and great performer! :thumbup:
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2009
- Messages
- 739
I'm down with the S30v. Fantastic all around steel. Takes an edge, holds an edge, and easy enough to sharpen.
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2002
- Messages
- 9,948
Hi Joe!
SG-2, VG-10, and ZDP-189 were in my list of home-runs. I like some of the blocky carbidey stuff, too. The fine-carbide stuff just reaches the same level of sharpness quicker and takes more effort to chip while the large carbide stuff lasts and lasts at a particular level of sharpness (above shaving for some, just below for others).
For hacking at shrubs, branches, and debris, I like the fine-grained stuff for above the ground and coarse-grained (or serrated of any type) below (unless heavily prying to uproot stuff), so I'd probably be preferring the high-vanadium stainlesses like Yablonowitz if I did what he everyday.
As for the chef thing, I love cutting paper-thin slices and making micro-brunoise dices, but I'm not that good of a cook.
SG-2, VG-10, and ZDP-189 were in my list of home-runs. I like some of the blocky carbidey stuff, too. The fine-carbide stuff just reaches the same level of sharpness quicker and takes more effort to chip while the large carbide stuff lasts and lasts at a particular level of sharpness (above shaving for some, just below for others).
For hacking at shrubs, branches, and debris, I like the fine-grained stuff for above the ground and coarse-grained (or serrated of any type) below (unless heavily prying to uproot stuff), so I'd probably be preferring the high-vanadium stainlesses like Yablonowitz if I did what he everyday.
As for the chef thing, I love cutting paper-thin slices and making micro-brunoise dices, but I'm not that good of a cook.
- Joined
- May 27, 2007
- Messages
- 4,210
3 stand out in my book for fixed blade steel:
1) INFI: tough as hell, never gets so dull you can't use it. Against soft materials the edge will last a very long time. Against hard materials... ditto. Virtually stainless (more so than D2). Not invincible, but as close as I've seen to it.
2) CPM-3V: Can't speak for all makers heat treatments, but Fehrman gets it right. It's incredibly tough stuff and very wear resistant. Takes a better edge than INFI, but doesn't hold it quite as long under the same usage IMO.
3)SR-101: Busse's heat treatment applied to 52100. Very similar in performance to CPM3V, but easier to sharpen. It is, however more prone to rust than the other two. For the money, it may be the best value in a fixed blade today.
1) INFI: tough as hell, never gets so dull you can't use it. Against soft materials the edge will last a very long time. Against hard materials... ditto. Virtually stainless (more so than D2). Not invincible, but as close as I've seen to it.
2) CPM-3V: Can't speak for all makers heat treatments, but Fehrman gets it right. It's incredibly tough stuff and very wear resistant. Takes a better edge than INFI, but doesn't hold it quite as long under the same usage IMO.
3)SR-101: Busse's heat treatment applied to 52100. Very similar in performance to CPM3V, but easier to sharpen. It is, however more prone to rust than the other two. For the money, it may be the best value in a fixed blade today.
Bigfattyt
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2007
- Messages
- 19,237
3 stand out in my book for fixed blade steel:
1) INFI: tough as hell, never gets so dull you can't use it. Against soft materials the edge will last a very long time. Against hard materials... ditto. Virtually stainless (more so than D2). Not invincible, but as close as I've seen to it.
2) CPM-3V: Can't speak for all makers heat treatments, but Fehrman gets it right. It's incredibly tough stuff and very wear resistant. Takes a better edge than INFI, but doesn't hold it quite as long under the same usage IMO.
3)SR-101: Busse's heat treatment applied to 52100. Very similar in performance to CPM3V, but easier to sharpen. It is, however more prone to rust than the other two. For the money, it may be the best value in a fixed blade today.
I was waiting for a vote from Infi. I was not going to pipe up. But I have never tried a lot of steels.
I have Infi. I do like it a lot. But have not really tested it to limits (occasional accidental rock chopping prying and battoning aside).
As has been said, I one of the main things is proper heat treat.
Super steel is not super at all without a proper heat treat and temper process.
I have used some 5160, which is technically a spring steel, and gotten great performance, and much better edge retention than I was expecting.
Proper heat treated 1095, or 1080 will perform like super steel when compared to poorly heat treated super steel.
Edge geometry is also another factor. Some steels just aren't cut out for certain geometry, and if you try to force it, you won't be impressed. Then you will think the steel is crap, when really, it was a poor choice of grind or edge bevel angle.