Steel question

[slicer]

I'm sure the question of types of steel and the property's comes up often.
My question is specific to one of the steel's used by CRKT

AUS118

Anyone have any insights ?
Is it any good ?
I'm not happy with knifes with AUS6 as I don't yet have a way to sharpen myself. I'm always looking for a steel that can hold an edge and to get the best edge from a factory knife as possible.

 

[mikeS]

I have a spyderco with an aus8 blade not familiar with aus118
The syderco is the knife I use to dig weeds, scrap burrs of of copper pipe steel pipe, and stab holes in my truck. Aything will need sharpened if you use it. How come You don't have a sharpener? Stonrs are cheap, paper and rouge is too.

 

[Knife Fumbler]

Hi Slicer,
Looks like you're new to the forums (you only have 9 posts).
Wellcome here, u'll find this place useful.

About your question, you would probably have gotten many answers in the blade testing and review forum.
I would suggest making use of the search function and looking for AUS 118 because more often than not your question would have been talked about before.

AUS118 used to be marketed by CRKT as ACUTO 440.
It's basically 440C with a few other elements added to increase hardness and edgeholding.
My experience (I had a M16 carbon fiber with the ACUTO 440 blade)is that it held an edge as well as my ATS-34 knives,
so it was pretty good in that area.
The only problems were the blade developed a little bit of rust and the edge chipped a little in a couple of spots.
The rust can mostly be attributed to the bead blast finish on CRKT knives. The surface clings to moisture and that's why it rusted. I believe AUS118/ACUTO440 has something like 18% chromium. That is very high and should normally keep it from rusting easily, so it must have been because of the finish.
The chips came from cutting wire. With other knives I have they don't chip.
Chipping in the M16 could have been attributed to the very thin edge it had. A thin edge cuts well, but is more fragile.

I'm probably boring you with my talking.
If you're looking for very very very good edgeholding get a knife in 440V or 420V (also called S60V and S90V).
those will cut much longer than AUS 6 or AUS 118.

I suggest investing money in something to sharpen with and learning how to properly sharpen knives. The easiest thing to use is the Sharpmaker by Spyderco. It's as close to full-proof as any sharpening system can get.

Hope I helped you some.

 

[slicer]

I do plan on getting the Spyderco sharpener soon.
I just have few more knives I want to get first
Once I have enogh knifes to justify the purchase ????? I'll start sharpening them myself

 

[Bugs3x]

There are intermediate devices that cost little. The Gatco TriSeps costs under $10. It is a triangular ceramic rod approx 4" long. One end has several bevels on it. These are to enable the user to set the stick at the proper angle. Then, the blade is held vertical -- as consistently as is possible. One can sharpen darts and fishhooks with it. It also has 3 different corner treatments useful for serrations, and recurved edges.

I'm sure it isn't as precise as the Sharpmaker. But, it gives one the potential to keep an edge in good shape, with a minimum of work, and cost. Lansky has now come out with 3 such sticks, one for Spyderco serrations, one for Cold Steel serrations, and I can't remember the brand for which the 3rd stick is made. I don't believe the Lansky sticks have the angled end -- probably patented -- so unless you have a large amount of serrations to sharpen on one of the designated sticks, I'd recommend the Gatco. -- It was chosen Accessory of the Year at the Blade Show, a year or two ago. I like mine a lot.

If you're using your knives to the point of such dullness they no longer cut, you're going to find yourself with a lot of sharpening to do with ceramic sticks. I'd sure recommend you buy the cheaper product and keep your edges in decent shape. The ceramic sticks are not very fast at metal removal, which your blades might need if they've achieved the edge of a hoe.