steel question

T

technician1

Joined
Nov 25, 2009
Messages
214
what do you think this steel composition is ? Or what do you think it is most likely made of ? Irwin Bi-metal construction saw blade ? Why do I ask ? I've completely lost it..... :eek: I wrapped it in duct taped, making a handle. Cut, melted and folded a old credit card wrapping it in duct tape, making a sheath. It's my new edc. So this is why I ask. Yes, I am a member of bladeforums. LOL
 
Reciprocating saw blade? If so, it would be a very sturdy steel, because it was designed to perform under extreme stress. Your "knife" (if you choose to call it that) sounds very much like a Frankenstein knife, but you can say that you turned a saw blade into a knife, and most people can't come close to saying that.
 
yes thats exactly what i did. I used sidecuts to square up the end, that goes in the sawsall and when the sidecuts "cut it" it snapped and flew across the room.
 
Many bimetal saw blades are made from M42 tool steel, I would guess it is a combination of M2 HSS and something else.
 
jimnolimit said:
im not understanding the situation, you were trying to cut a saw blade with a saw blade?
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Maybe he doesn't know that many companies make knives that have sheaths already. Basically, all you do is open the box, remove the knife, and start cutting. :)
 
LOL you guys crack me up. I was putting new gutters on my house today and was cutting to length with a hack saw. so I got the idea.... I wonder if this would make a good and cheap edc blade? I'll carry it for a few weeks to see how it works out. as of now I combo a pocket pry bar I made and my new frankinstein blade. sounds like good steel tho.... i'll look up M42 steel thanks alot. what do you guys think.... do you think it's a dumb idea?
 
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RevDevil said:
Maybe he doesn't know that many companies make knives that have sheaths already. Basically, all you do is open the box, remove the knife, and start cutting. :)
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i can buy a pre-made shanks? that's great news :thumbup:. i sharpen mine on the concrete floor, i wonder if they'll ever make something smaller that i can sharpen my shanks with ;).
 
I'll copy and past what I found on Crucible web site. All information credit goes to Crucible.
REX® M42
High Speed Steel (AISI M42)

REX M42 is a super cobalt high speed steel which may be heat treated to HRC 68. This makes REX M42 outstanding for special purpose cutting tools, with requirements beyond the capability of general purpose high speed steels.


Typical Chemistry
Carbon 1.08%
Manganese 0.30%
Chromium 3.75%
Vanadium 1.15%
Silicon 0.30%
Tungsten 1.60%
Molybdenum 9.50%
Cobalt 8.00%
Sulfur 0.03% max.

Typical Applications
Broaches Gear Hobs
Drills Milling Cutters
End Mills Reamers
Form Tools Shaper Cutters




Annealed Hardness: BHN 235/255.

Machinability in the annealed condition is approximately 35% of W1 Tool Steel (1%C).

Thermal Treatments

Critical Temperature: 1560F(850C)

Forging: 2025-2075F(1105-1135C) Do not forge below 1700F(930C). Slow cool.

Annealing: 1600F(870C), hold 2 hours, slow cool 30F(15C)/hr max. to 1000F(540C), then air or furnace cool. Hardness BHN 235/255.

Stress-relieving (After machining): 1100-1300F(595-740C), hold 2 hrs., then air or furnace cool.

Straightening: Best done warm 400-800F(200-430C)

Hardening: (Salt, vacuum, or atmosphere).

Preheat: 1500-1550F(820-845C), equalize. A second preheat stage at 1850-1900F(1010-1040C) suggested for vacuum or atmosphere hardening.

High Heat: 2075-2175F(1135-1190C). Standard recommendation to achieve HRC 66/68 is to use 2150-2175F(1175-1190C).


Quench: Salt, oil or atmosphere quench to 1000-1100F(540-595C), equalize, then air cool to below 125F(50C) or hand warm. Vacuum or atmosphere quench rate through 1850-1300F(1010-705C) range is critical to achieve optimum heat treat response.

Temper: 1000F(540C) minimum recommended. Triple tempering required.

Stress-relieving (Hardened parts): Temper 30F(15C) below original tempering temperature or 1000F(540C) minimum.


Toughness
Lowering the hardening temperature (underhardening) reduces the grain size and increases toughness.
 
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technician1 said:
LOL you guys crack me up. I was putting new gutters on my house today and was cutting to length with a hack saw. so I got the idea.... I wonder if this would make a good and cheap edc blade? I'll carry it for a few weeks to see how it works out. as of now I combo a pocket pry bar I made with my new frankinstein blade. sounds like good steel tho.... i'll look up M42 steel thanks alot. what do you guys think.... do you think it's a dumb idea?
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bi-metal blade means the blade is made of two different steels, a harder tool steel for the teeth and a tougher, more flexable steel for the actual body of the saw. how are you shaping the blade? or are you just trying to make a little pocket saw?
 
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