Steel small wheels

jll346

jll346

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May 29, 2006
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Anyone ever try or own small wheels with no rubber? I see someone who makes and sells them but I am skeptical on results. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
My first small wheels where with no rubber, but I MUCH prefer rubber/plastic covered wheels. They tend to grind smoother, and the belt joint doesn't "bump" as much. I covered my metal wheels with rubber and have been happy with the results. My smallest wheel (1/2") is solid metal and works.

If you've got access to a lathe small wheels are so easy 'n cheap to make.

Ken H>
 
I have owned the rubber covered for many years on nany machines. Due to life circumstances I lost everything I had. I am trying to get back on a smaller budget, reason for asking. Thanks guys
 
I have some of both varieties, and the metal wheels are a lot chattier... Results are much smoother with the rubber.
 
gator and other structured abrasive belts work ok with steel wheels cause of min splice bump. that said i have only one steel small wheel and its 1/4 inch great for doing "file" work but thats all i use it for
 
Ken H> said:
My first small wheels where with no rubber, but I MUCH prefer rubber/plastic covered wheels. They tend to grind smoother, and the belt joint doesn't "bump" as much. I covered my metal wheels with rubber and have been happy with the results. My smallest wheel (1/2") is solid metal and works.

If you've got access to a lathe small wheels are so easy 'n cheap to make.

Ken H>
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could you please explain how you covered them? I for one would like to know. thanks.
 
I have a few steel small wheels that I made myself, they work fine for me. I can get by with a little chatter; you keep the piece in motion to eliminate dwell marks.
 
I use a couple steel small wheels that I made or had made. I used the 1/4 inch one today cleaning up a blade before installing bolsters. Here is a photo. Larry

l6sBAB7l.jpg
 
You can live with a bit of unforgiveness/chattering due to the rigid steel substrate, or you can get a properly sized rubber hose around your rods.
 
stezann said:
You can live with a bit of unforgiveness/chattering due to the rigid steel substrate, or you can get a properly sized rubber hose around your rods.
Click to expand...
I'm looking at doing this now. Not so much for the finish in the curve itself, but I need to be able to use the wheel to transition the finish down to the point on the tang for instance, that I can't reach with the flat platen. A rubber cover would keep this uniform into the rest of the tang. I'm going to try rubber hose if I can find an appropriate size, or perhaps shrink tubing. I don't think the cover needs to be really thick for what I need, so shrink tubing may work.
 
I assume this replacement drums are 3/4, 1, 1.5, etc that go onto a thin axel?
 
I should have mentioned that in post with links. The replacement drums I've got are fit to a 1/2" axle and glued. The 1-1/2" drum is on a .560" diameter axle. I might have made it that size to have a really tight fit, not sure. I've slept since I made them.
 
Years ago I got a 1/4" one from Tru Grit. I think it was called the "Rand Dandy". The bearings were made to go slow. Too much speed burned them out.
 
Now that would be a neat way to make up a small wheel set - I'm expecting the existing axle could be knocked out to be replaced with new axles. 1/4" might be a tad small due to the ID of bearings - not sure. I don't remember the ID of bearings used.
 
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