Steel small wheels

Yeah I would think the the stem could be pulled out and a new one put in. Would be easy to build up a set of wheels for cheep this way. Buy some bearings and the wheels and 1/4" ground rod and your set. I'm wondering what the exzact size of the hole in the rubber is. I might just order it and see what it is when it gets here
 
At this place you can just buy the drums. I'm guessing the hole is larger becaus if you look at the shaft it's 1/4" and threaded so the threads are larger then the 1/4" section so I'm guessing it's a standard 3/8" which would work with off the shelf bearings.

http://www.supergrit.com/OSSSandingDrumsandSleeves
 
Would be sweet if a standard 608 bearing would work (skate board bearing). You can get them very cheep or oven get ceramic. 8mm ID and 22MM OD
 
just curious but you guys think you could lathe a rod down to 1/8" diameter where the belt rides? would it work or would it snap from the belt tension? What if it was heat treated/tempered?
 
How does running belts over such a tight bend radius affect their lifespan ?
Seems like it would affect adhesion of abrasive and splice bump would be very pronounced.
 
I found it easier to clone the standard small wheel attachments using their bearing for the axle. These bearings are about 3/8" ID, with about .906" OD (23mm). Skateboard bearings would work, I use them on the 3" platen wheels and they hold up good there. On a 1" wheel they would be turning a LOTS faster and might have issues.

I don't think a belt would hold up very good to an 1/8" axle for reasons listed above.

Ken H>
 
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I have a steel 3/8" and 1/4" and it is hard on belts, especially the cheaper ones. I use them at a very slow speed to round out tight areas.
 
razor-edge-knives said:
just curious but you guys think you could lathe a rod down to 1/8" diameter where the belt rides? would it work or would it snap from the belt tension? What if it was heat treated/tempered?
Click to expand...

1/8" is too small "to lathe it down"
( the verb you are looking for is turn)

It will bend from tool pressure before you even get it made
1/4" is possible
 
I would have to disagree with it not being able to be turned on a lathe. I have turned some very tiny things on the lathe and if done right a 1/8" by 2" would not be impossible. Very pointy sharp carbide inserts and very light passed with just a .001 or so spring pass. You would use a dead blow hammer or lead bar on the back side as you turn it down which will reduce the vibration that causes chatter. It's possible but not something super easy and on a manual would be even harder. You can do real thin stuff if you do face cutting. You work the face down in diameter and step back like .005 and do another face cut to diameter. This is much easier on a cnc.

But there is much easier way to do the same think. Turn two wheels and drill and ream a hole in each that is just under .125 and the press fit a 1/8" shaft into the wheels.
 
12345678910 said:
1/8" is too small "to lathe it down"
( the verb you are looking for is turn)

It will bend from tool pressure before you even get it made
1/4" is possible
Click to expand...

Thanks for the correction on the terminology!

JTknives said:
I would have to disagree with it not being able to be turned on a lathe. I have turned some very tiny things on the lathe and if done right a 1/8" by 2" would not be impossible. Very pointy sharp carbide inserts and very light passed with just a .001 or so spring pass. You would use a dead blow hammer or lead bar on the back side as you turn it down which will reduce the vibration that causes chatter. It's possible but not something super easy and on a manual would be even harder. You can do real thin stuff if you do face cutting. You work the face down in diameter and step back like .005 and do another face cut to diameter. This is much easier on a cnc.

But there is much easier way to do the same think. Turn two wheels and drill and ream a hole in each that is just under .125 and the press fit a 1/8" shaft into the wheels.
Click to expand...

Interesting points. If you turned 2 wheels down how would that allow the 1/8" rod to spin, or are you saying that would stay rigid and unmoving and the belt would just ride over it?
 
I'm saying you make some 3/8" bushing that have a 1/8" hole in them. The 1/8" rod gets a 3/8" bushing on each end and then a bearing goes over the 3/8" bushing.
 
If you try it, heat shrink all the press fits as pressing can bend the rod.

I scrapped mime out at that step

I wanted to try some stiffer material like carbide rounds.
 
For a few bucks you can get 1/8 hardened dowels 2.5" long.
 
Yeah ream the holes under size by a few thousands and then heat the bushings and cool the rod. Or if you have liquid nitrogen just cool the rod and slide it in. By press fit I meant interference fit. Carbide could work as long as the belt tension was not to high. You can get precision hardened dowel pins in just about any size you want that would also work. Another option is a high speed steel drill bit shank and just lop off the flutes.
 
I've used 8mm rod,- skateboard wheels, and either air compressor hose (the rubber kind)
or gas line hose. They run smooth once I balance them and a few of them I made 7+ years
ago are still running great. Usually under $5 to make one- bearings and all.
Ken.
 
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