Steel that keeps toothy edge as it it gets dull(please give me some sugestions)

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lonestar1979

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Mar 2, 2014
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I like and use toothy edges for most of things that are being cut, and am looking for folder that retains toothy edge even when it gets dull.I find that my aus8 and vg10 blades lose that bite pretty fast as they get duller.Have the paramilitary 2 in s30v but have not really tested it out.Can you please recommend some steels and folders that are not too expensive and would fit me.
 
I have heard that the pm2 s30v is just what your looking for. Maybe something in s90v also. My manix 2 lw in s110v has stayed sharp forever just keeps on cutting.
 
I've had luck with toothy "working" edges with M4 and M 390. From my own experience, M4 gets very sharp, and when sharpened almost has a "sticky" feeling when you touch the edge. I've never had a polished edge on M4. The toothy edge lasted a long time. I cut a lot of cardboard.

With M390, I have experienced that when the edge is toothy, it didn't feel "scary sharp" to the touch, but it just kept cutting and cutting.

These are my individual results, but some others might disagree. Grit, angle of sharpening, and edge type will probably yield different results.

Although I haven't used it, CPM 10V is supposed to be the champion of carbon steel edge retention. I would assume a toothy edge on a super steel would be awesome .
 
From my experience, D2 and s30v seem to keep a cutting edge for a long time after the initial super sharp edge has diminished. I am still working on dulling a benchmade 940 in s90, but it seems to follow that pattern as well.
 
Any decent production knife in a modern carbide-rich stainless should do the trick... S30V, 154CM, even 440C will treat you right in that department.
 
The epic thread started by Jim Ankerson in the Knife Review and Testing section will go a long way to giving you the answers you are interested in. It now contains direct test results of toothy edge results. Just scroll down on page 1.
Best....
 
The S110V from my limited time experimenting with it fit this bill. Thing just kept cutting no matter how much cardboard I threw at it, had a bit of bite to it. Was a spyderco mule team 18, though that is the only high wear resistant knife I own and most of my other knives are the complete opposite in terms of what your looking for (bit of a disclaimer). I've heard D2 is a good steel that fit your needs by what you want as well, though I have no experience with it.
 
philllll said:
Any decent production knife in a modern carbide-rich stainless should do the trick... S30V, 154CM, even 440C will treat you right in that department.
Click to expand...

This ^

The higher Vanadium content ones will last a long time compared to the higher chromium ones but will still go awhile. My hard use work knife of choice used to be 440c with a very coarse edge.
 
Before switching steels, try lowering the sharpening angle and using a coarser stone. If that doesn't give what you want, try D2 at less than 10 degrees per side.
 
What kind of edge finish would I want on my PM2 in S30V then? Coarse (Diamond/CBN Rods), Relatively coarse (brown sharpmaker rods) or highly polished?
 
Sentinel641 said:
What kind of edge finish would I want on my PM2 in S30V then? Coarse (Diamond/CBN Rods), Relatively coarse (brown sharpmaker rods) or highly polished?
Click to expand...

Something like ~600 grit/mesh, as from DMT's 'Fine' @ 25µ, seems to do very well on S30V. Their EF (1200 mesh/9µ) should also do well. Finish both with minimal stropping, just to clean up any loose burrs without polishing out the 'tooth' left by the hones. If your finishing technique on the hones is sound, you might not need (or want) to strop it at all.

Your diamond rods on the SM should leave a finish similar to the DMT 'Fine'; and the CBN something in between DMT's 'Coarse' (325 mesh/45µ) and Fine (600 mesh/25µ). Spyderco apparently spec's the CBN rods at ~40µ.


David
 
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Here are the test results for those having a hard time finding them. Before debating the results ad nauseam, please take time to read at least most of Ankersons thread. Many of the most knowledgable people in the business have contributed to it.
BTW, the number following the steel type is the number of cuts of 5/8" rope within the parameters of the protocol.
S110V = 1120 cuts after regrind for example.
Best....


Same method as above, but with a coarse edge, 400 grit congress Silicone carbide, more optimal edge finish for max edge retention to highlight the differences in the steels.

S110V - 1120 - Manix 2 - 62 RC - Regrind to .005" behind the edge.
Z-A11 - 880 - Darrion Sanders Custom - 62.5 RC - .020" behind the edge/.070" spine thickness.
K390 - 820 - Mule - 62-64 RC
S110V - 720 - Manix 2 - 62 RC
Cru-Wear - 700 - Phil Wilson Custom Bow River - 63 RC - .005" behind the edge.
S110V - 600 - Mule - 60 RC - .015" -.018" behind the edge.
S90V - 600 - Benchmade 940-1 - 59-61 RC - .018" Behind the edge.
S90V - 460 - Military - 60 RC
S90V/CPM 154 - Para 2 - 460 - ? RC
CTS 204P - 420 - Para 2
ZDP -189 - 420 - Endura 4 - 65 RC
M390 - 400 - Benchmade 810-1401 Contego 60-62 RC
M390 - 380 - Military - 61 RC
ELMAX - 340 - ZT 0770CF - ? RC
ELMAX - 340 - Para 2 - ? RC
S30V - 300 - Military - 60 RC
Cru-Wear - 260 - Military - ? RC
CTS-XHP - 240 - Military - 60.5 RC
CTS-B75P - 240 - Mule
Sleipner - 240 - LionSteel PM2
Dozier D2 - 220 - Dozier K2
ELMAX - 220 - Mule - 58.5 RC
VG-10 - 160 - Stretch
AUS-8A - 160 - Recon 1
12c27 MOD - 120 - Opinel #8 - .012" behind the edge
XC90 - 80 - Opinel #8 - .012" behind the edge
Last edited by Ankerson; 07-31-2014 at 08:49 PM.
 
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You don't have to limit your search to toothy edges. The best edge retention that you're likely to find in a folder is S110V. S90V would be pretty close, and it is also available in many folders. M390 and M4 are also excellent steels, with a good balance of edge retention and toughness.

Finer blade and edge geometry will also help your edge last longer.

And rather than looking for a toothy edge, you might also try serrated edges.
 
me2 said:
Before switching steels, try lowering the sharpening angle and using a coarser stone. If that doesn't give what you want, try D2 at less than 10 degrees per side.
Click to expand...

At less than 10* per side, wouldn't the D2 be chippy? Have you had luck using those angles?
 
Now you're catching on. Coarse carbide structure + low edge angles = carbide tear out ~ microserrated edge for use on soft materials. Don't rebevel your Kershaw Outcast like this. You can slice through rope for a long time with an edge like this. For cardboard, might work even better.
 
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