Stencil Design - Indecision

I'd definitely print your samples "to scale" before having stencils made , just to get an idea of resolution. An alternative to an outline of Texas is simply including your city, state under your name. Fortunately, Texas only has 5 letters, so depending on your city, it should fit, as long as you don't live in "Dalworthington Gardens, Texas", in which case, try to stick with the outline, or get into making swords. :D
 
knife to a gunfight said:
I'd definitely print your samples "to scale" before having stencils made , just to get an idea of resolution. An alternative to an outline of Texas is simply including your city, state under your name. Fortunately, Texas only has 5 letters, so depending on your city, it should fit, as long as you don't live in "Dalworthington Gardens, Texas", in which case, try to stick with the outline, or get into making swords. :D
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Gosh that's a long name!

I'm definitely working on getting one printed out to size to look at.

I tend to move semi frequently as a petroleum engineer, so the city may not remain accurate. However, even if I move to another state, I'll still be a Texan. :thumbsup::cool:
 
J. Keeton said:
Gosh that's a long name!

I'm definitely working on getting one printed out to size to look at.

I tend to move semi frequently as a petroleum engineer, so the city may not remain accurate. However, even if I move to another state, I'll still be a Texan. :thumbsup::cool:
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Plenty of makers have changed their marks as they move to different cities or states. It's actually a pretty good way to keep track of pieces as they turn up years down the road.
 
I would incorporate the word Texas instead of the graphics. It’s a short word and very well known.
 
I tend to agree with Stromberg. If Texas is important to you, put the word TEXAS below your name. A tiny lumpy dot may say Texas to you, but be lost on someone looking at the knife.

My mark is various positioning and sizes of Stacy E. Apelt Norfolk, VA .... it says it all.
 
Maybe something like this?

V9Sajoe.jpg
 
Not sure if you plan to use vinyl or photo stencils, if you use vinyl (I do use them) keep in mind that closed letters such as the O or the top part of the A are a pain, that why the P in PEU or my makers mark is open, vinyl release is super fast.

Pablo

GP3MOJ0.jpg
 
PEU said:
Not sure if you plan to use vinyl or photo stencils, if you use vinyl (I do use them) keep in mind that closed letters such as the O or the top part of the A are a pain, that why the P in PEU or my makers mark is open, vinyl release is super fast.

Pablo
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Thanks for the tip. I working with TUS to get them made. I'm not exactly sure what material they use, but I've read they do a good job.
 
J. Keeton said:
Thanks for the tip. I working with TUS to get them made. I'm not exactly sure what material they use, but I've read they do a good job.
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Their stencils are the more traditional photo resist/micro-mesh material. Closed letters won't be an issue.
 
Tried my first etch on a test blade today. I'm 99% sure I was using the AC setting based on the darkness of the etch. It etched very fast. This is 2 passes 2 seconds each with 1 pass at 1 second... 5 total seconds. It turned out to be too long I think. One pass at 2 seconds may be enough with this etcher on AC.

I messed around with scrap on the DC setting, but it didn't seem to eat it very much (but was eating... based on sound). I have more testing to do in this regard. I'll have to review my diagram too to make sure I have it wired correctly.

Do yall just rinse your stencils with water once finished? Any other tips or thoughts?

Thanks again for the stencil ideas! Major shout-out to Stromberg Knives Stromberg Knives ... I went with your suggested design. It's awesome.



Cheers,
JK
 
I like the centering / indenting of the texas.


I know you're all done and happy, but

what do you have against the hooky part of the "J"
 
J. Keeton said:
Do yall just rinse your stencils with water once finished? Any other tips or thoughts?[/USER]
Cheers,
JK
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I use TUS stencils, I found rinsing them off with windex and then I actually store them in a tupperware container in water and windex. This has greatly increased the life of the stencil.

If stored dry and if there is any etchant left on the stencil it will crack. Storing wet in a alkaline solution keeps them supple and like new.
 
J. Keeton said:
Tried my first etch on a test blade today. I'm 99% sure I was using the AC setting based on the darkness of the etch. It etched very fast. This is 2 passes 2 seconds each with 1 pass at 1 second... 5 total seconds. It turned out to be too long I think. One pass at 2 seconds may be enough with this etcher on AC.

I messed around with scrap on the DC setting, but it didn't seem to eat it very much (but was eating... based on sound). I have more testing to do in this regard. I'll have to review my diagram too to make sure I have it wired correctly.

Do yall just rinse your stencils with water once finished? Any other tips or thoughts?

Thanks again for the stencil ideas! Major shout-out to Stromberg Knives Stromberg Knives ... I went with your suggested design. It's awesome.



Cheers,
JK
Click to expand...
Looking good!

Thanks, happy to help.
 
12345678910 said:
I like the centering / indenting of the texas.


I know you're all done and happy, but

what do you have against the hooky part of the "J"
Click to expand...

Nothing against it. Just liked the way this looked better visually. I use the hooky part of the "J" daily!
 
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