Steps to making first sword

S

SteelGhost

Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
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Im really new to making blades other than the cheap throw away ones I make to use around the house.

I dont think my understanding of the process of blade making is all that bad, I have been reading and learning about it most of my life. I just havent had a chance to really put theory into practice. Now im about to take my first steps down the path of blade making the right way mostly as a hobby and perhaps someday as a business.

I Have several designs I want to start out with, but I seem to be leaning towards making a sword first, just to get a feel for a few techniques im curious about.

I am thinking of making a Japanese 'style' sword through stock removal of 1095 High carbon steel.

Before I order supplies or take the first steps I would like to put my plan step by step into words here so that you very talented people :D can review it and add your own thoughts and advice to my method.

- Finished sword dimentions roughly 40 inches from end to end.
- Japanese Katana style but with a full tang and non traditional style finish for the handle.

- The steel stock I have the options for thickness of 1/4 1/8 or 3/16 width 1-1/2 or 2 inch.
I am thinking of 1/8 1-1/2 does this sound about right ?? That should leave enough to work with but not so much as to waste material.

I have an ancient belt sander that takes 1 inch belts and an equally ancient bench grinder. I use these to make simple knives and such from the tool steel you buy at any hardware store.


This is how I think the process goes, please correct me if im wrong.


- Once I have my length of 1095 I plan to shape it on the grinder and belt sander.

- Then I apply a layer of Satanite along the spine of the blade.

- Heat the blade until it reaches 1475 to 1500 F then quench immediatly for an RC 60 to 65. Should I brine quench or oil quench im wondering if 60-65 RC is good or do I want to go softer or harder ??

- Hang the blade to cool for a day.

- Remove the Satanite and any scale and so on.

- Do the finishing work on the blade, sharpening polishing and so on.

The finishing as far as handle and accesories go ill leave out for now and mainly concentrate on the blade.

So does this sound correct so far or does it sound like a complete loss lol.

Please let me know if im on the right track !!

Thanks !!
 
If you haven't ever made a tanto, I'd say make a tanto first. It'll keep you from wasting a sword length piece. My first asian style blade ended up shorter than I'd intended, and I was using files (It'd probably have to have been junked if I'd had access to a grinder, to mess it up quicker/worse)

I'm sure someone will chime in as to the proper thickness/dimensions.
 
My recommendation is that your first step should be to rent this video and watch it: Katana-A-Modern-Craftsmans-Guide-To-Making-A-Japanese-Sword This is a stock-removal demonstration, accessible to those without bladesmithing experience.
Click to expand...

Absolutely sound advice. The video is great and is exactly what you want to do.
Also agree with trying something smaller first. There is a lot of work in grinding, filing and sanding. Doing it at sword length is many time more work.

You seemed to have missed second step of heat treatment.
After hardening, you must temper to reduce hardness, reduce brittleness.
This is done by heating about 300 to 400 *F depending on steel and final hardness.

Welcome to the steel addiction.
 
1/8" seems a little thin for a japanese style sword. 3/16" is much more substantial. Also have heard 5160 steel is one of the best for a sword, but 1095 is probably easier to get in the size you want.

I agree you should try to make a tanto first.

Also check out the home improvements section of sword forum international when it is time to make the handle etc. They have some great picture tutorials there.

greg
 
Purchase or rent Wally Hayes' Katana video. It is very easy to follow and will produce a sword like you desire.

That said you have a bit to learn about knife making and especially about sword making. The video will help with that some ,too.

Your HT is incomplete, and I don't think you understand the process fully. Some reading on the subject will be helpful before you do it. The video will walk you through it, but you need to understand what is going on.
The steel should start out as 1.5" X 1/4"X40". You don't want 1095, you want 1070. Again, Wally covers that in the video.

I always tell new makers that they should make about 100 knives, and when they think they are really good, then make a sword. It will humble them. The process is not the same as making a longer knife. Some good sites to check out are Don Fogg's site
http://www.dfoggknives.com/
Sword Forum International
http://forums.swordforum.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=19
Information on Japanese swords
http://home.earthlink.net/~steinrl/nihonto.htm

Email me with any questions.
Please fill out your profile. Some great swordsmith may be your neighbor, and he would never know. Also a posting of the equipment and actual proficiency you have would help guide those who wish to help you.
Stacy
 
Most of the antique katana I've seen measurements for (and the two I've measured myself) hovered around 1/3" thick at the habaki. They have to be thick to make up for all that soft weak steel. So you'd be better off starting with 3/8" thick stock.
 
make knives, lots of them, start small and work up, every inch over 8 inches adds complications
1070 and 5160 are much better steels to start with for making swords than 1095. You can make a great sword from 1095 if you really know what you're doing, but your heat treat needs to be spot on,
read more, make smaller blades andwork up
good luck
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