Stick Tang Handle w/ Pommel

watercrawl

watercrawl

Joined
Jun 2, 2006
Messages
422
I've read through a lot of information regarding this type of handle construction and I've got a few questions if someone doesn't mind helping me out.

First:

If I can make the tang as long as I want from the start, is there any advantage to soldering on an all-thread versus threading the end of the tang?

Second:

If I wanted a 1/4" thick pommel, how deep would you tap it? Is that thick enough to get enough threads to be strong enough or should a nut be soldered on? I reckon most nuts in the diameter typically used in this application aren't going to have much more thread than you can get in a 1/4" pommel?!?!

Third:

If I was using 1/8" stock, is there a preferred tap and die size?

Fourth:

Anyone want to share any tips/tricks on keeping everything square up and true?
 
Adam,
First, I got the wood this weekend from my brother and it looks great.

Second, Third, etc...
I have tried my best to tap the end of a stick tang for the pommel nut but for the life of me couldn't get it done right. I couldn't get it rounded enough and the tap wouldn't start, so I found that all thread worked best for me. At first I welded it on using a torch to fuse the two materials together. Now I cut a slot in the all thread, thin down the tang, fit the male tang into the female all thread, drill a 1/16" hole and put a brass rod through them to join them together. I know that others have used links of a bicycle chain to do this and it works well for curved handles.

Also for the nut, you want to thread it enough to get a good lock without movement. That might be hard on 1/4" material. If you try to do it, you need two taps. One with a tapered end and one with a flat end. Use the tapered end and tap as far as it will go, then switch to the flat ended tap to finish. If you get it too close to the back of the material you run the risk of grinding/sanding into the threads when you finish it. Don't ask me how I know.

A trick I learned from Dan Graves it to use an acorn nut for your pommel. Simply thread it into some all thread, chuck into your hand held drill, and set to run backwards while you shape it on your running grinder.

Hope this helps,
Jason
 
I prefer to thread the end of the tang, but it does take a bit of work. The area to be threaded has to be annealed properly and rounded carefully, and you have to take care to start the threads straight. I like to leave the tang rectangular in section as close to the threads as possible so that the other components can be keyed to the tang and won't rotate.
I often make a capstan-type nut that is counter-bored into the grip. The capstan nut helps center the rear of the grip and allows for more thread engagement, which can be helpful if you are doing a blind hole. They are easier to make if you have a lathe, though. A drill press can be used to turn one but that type of use tends to be hard on the bearings.
With 1/8" stock I think you will have to use 8-32 threads or smaller, unless you want incomplete threads on an oval shank.
 
I go 50/50 as far as whether I add a threaded extension, thread the end of the tang or (very occasionally so it is statistically irrelevant) key the hole through the pommel to the shape of the tang and peen the tang. One of the things I do is put a fine thread on the end of the tang that ends a little bit before the pommel, then I get a long allen screw with a long shoulder section, cut the threads off, spheroidize anneal it, stick it in a collet in my lathe, centerdrill it and thread the hole, counterbore the pommel, then assemble and grind the allen head flush so there is just a little bit of the hex socket left in case it needs disassembly.

-Page
 
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