Sticky to unlock Manix 2 Lightweight S110V

Feb 8, 2016
Hi all.
I know there are plenty of threads on sticky Manix 2 Lightweights but I don't believe mine is right.
On the part of the blade the ball bearing would slide over and lock the blade when opened there seems to be a small bump (see the dodgy phone pic). This makes it really hard to get that ball bearing moving to unlock as it has to ride over the bump then slide out like normal. Anyone else notice this bump or is that tang smooth and flat on your Manix. My take on the lock would be a slight ramp the ball runs up on locking into place. A bump or detent seems odd to hold the ball on the back of the blade as the spring should handle that function shouldn't it.

The spring is firm, I can deal with that. I'm a mechanic and have pretty tough / strong fingers and I've been playing with the knife for the past 24hrs, my index finger and thumb are red raw and the Manix is in the draw now. I've lubed it up and been open/closing the lock for hours on end now. I like the knife. I didn't expect buttery smooth straight from the box but I also didn't expect a two handed folder that would make me cringe to unlock and fold away.

I just looked at all my M2's and the top of the tang is flat. No hump like in your picture.
Thanks Sharp Guy.

Another thing I just noticed. There is a definite click with a bit of a grind sound when the ball bearing jumps over this bump when unlocking. It's quite audible.
I've just watched a heap of YouTube clips on the Manix 2 knives and I haven't noticed this sound on any of them. They just seem to disengage quietly.
Sounds like a job for Spydeco. I just checked my Manix 2 S110. Mine is smooth and I never carried or used it. Since it is pinned together you should send it to Spyderco. They will make things right.
Mine is smooth as it transitions from the closed to the open positions.
This sounds like a job for the Spyderco warranty department unless your retailer is willing to exchange it.
OP, your photo shows the blade at 10%ish from fully locked open, or no?
Yep that's about where it's at. I just pictured in that way as it's clearer (through the hole) to see the slight bump on the blade where the lock ball bearing engages.
Honestly I can't tell anything from his picture and I have the exact same knife in my hands.
I'm suggesting warranty assistance from his description of how hard it is to unlock.
I've had a Manix2 that was a bit sticky, but never one that made my fingers raw.
This doesn't sound like a pivot tension problem and that is the only adjustment you can make on this knife.
Just a bit of an update on this knife. I've had contact from the seller and spyderco. Both will except a return.... However it seems that the action with use, lots and lots and lots of mindless use. Is slowly getting less resistant. It's still got a slight "cluck" when unlocking but it's not really bothering me much any more. It doesn't pain my fingers like it was. You can see on the lock tang where the ball bearing sits a wear mark now.
I'm temped to just keep it and put up with it, save the postage for replacement postage etc.

Thoughts? Should it disengage totally silently or is the slight clack when the ball comes away from the tang normal.
There's no sound or sticky feeling when disengaging the lock on any of my 3 Manix 2's. I think that would drive me nuts but that doesn't matter. What matters is whether or not it's troublesome enough for you to warrant sending it in for repair or return it all together.
Just an update. So I returned my Manix 2 LW and opted for a burple Manix 2 S110V. Couldn't resist the upgrade.....
It's in my hot little hands and is a ripper. However the blade tang where the lock hits had that same annoying lip and it was clicky identically to my returned LW. Damn. This must be a factory thing for some reason. I find the CBBL like this crappy - like a gritty trigger.

I know I've voided the warranty but I pulled it apart and honed down the lip which was making the lock stick. Now unlocking it's like butter and I'm very happy with it. I've now had two S110V Manix 2's and cannot understand how others don't notice the same issue with them?
My blurple clicks when I first open it. There isn't really a bump, but rather a ramp.. Figured it was for the detent.
3 of my 4 manix's are fine, but the BD1 has the lip. Might try to file down.