Still confused about the Spydies

Mr. Brogan is right. A light tap on the pivot with a small hammer will adjust any screw-less pivot. Put the knife on a hard surface to support the other side of the pivot. Don't tap too hard or you can make it too tight. Do it lightly until you get the action you want. The same can be done for loose scale rivets. I've done this numerous times with some older knives, but have never needed it with Spydercos.

There is an old adage, "don't fix it unless it's broke." It works well with knives no matter how skilled you may be with your hands. I have a custom folder and the bolsters cover the pivot. I like the looks, and the knife is so well built, there is no need for pivot adjustment.
 
I'll post this in both of the current rivet threads...
These are some quotes I just got from the search function from Sal regarding rivets. I know that he has addressed this issue many times.

Originally posted by Sal Glesser
...The disadvantage to screws is that they move. Sometimes parts loosen and rigidity becomes questionable...

An advantage of rivets is that they do not move (at least ours don't). The knive remains rigid. Rivets are less expensive (putting screws in the Wegner might bring the price over the thresh-hold for the majority of our ELU).

Our Seki makers are exceptional at rigid construction when using rivets. We are just now working with them on screwing parts together. Not everyone wants screws or wants to pay for them. These are some of the majors. The best solution for the problem may not always be the same solution. Hope this helps.
sal

...It takes more force to disrupt (bend) a rivet than it does to disrupt a screw of the same diameter. Especially with the pins we use. It takes at least 100 inch/lbs of force to bend a pin...

"But if he keeps having to address it," you may ask, "why not change things?"

Well, beyond what he says above, I've read from him many times that the vast majority of people who purchase the riveted FRN models have not expressed a desire or need to have knives that come apart. Remember that Spyderco is working for the entire knife community, not just the knife community here at BFC. The savings in cost wins out with most people and Spyderco can rest assured that their inexspensive models are still solid and perform well even in inexperienced hands.
 
It should be noted that what Sal says regarding the increased strength of the rivets has truly shown itself in real life. How many times on these forums have we read of people who have Delicas and Enduras that are still going strong and acting like new after 7 or 8 years of duty? I know that I have such an Endura.

I sympathize with the desire to take your knives apart if you want, but I've honestly never needed to do it with any of my FRN spydies. Yes, there is a difference between desire and need, but knife companies can't always take desires into account. Taking needs into accounts is much more important.
 
Just to clarify a statement:

VampyreWolf stated that the G-10 Police can be taken apart;
Actually the G-10 Police uses both rivets and screws and cannot be totally disassembled.

I like rivets just fine on my Spydercos--you'll never lose a screw like I did with my Vesuvius.
It's the lack of dual steel liners in the FRN lockbacks that I don't like.

Allen.
 
...It takes more force to disrupt (bend) a rivet than it does to disrupt a screw of the same diameter. Especially with the pins we use. It takes at least 100 inch/lbs of force to bend a pin...

In that case...HOORAY FOR SPYDERCO!
 
AllenC> also note that I said "in 97 book"... The newer ones has a screw on lock pivot and blade pivot while the rest is rivited... however, the 97 version(of those 4 listed, and the 98 of the harpy g-10) has full screw const.
 
I've already been through this experience, and I can only confirm that I would choose at first, a riveted version rather then a screwed version of the same knife :)
Just to give an image, opening a knife assembled with screws (maybe except those you can assemble yourself locking the screws with half a ton of loctite :p ) will give the same feeling than dropping the magazine out of the gun when about to shoot... :D
 
There are FRN and metal spydies that can be taken apart.
ATR,as stated before
SS Cricket
FRN Cricket
FRN Vesuvius
I have had many that can not be taken apart but also never needed to be.
 
The knives we are discussing are designed for the consumer and as has been stated already; the majority of consumers want something that they don't have to mess with. They also want the highest quality for the lowest price possible. When you design something, you can not design it to all things to all people. There will always be something that someone wants done differently. A company such as Spyderco will go with what works for them and for the majority of the people buying their products.
 
I am certainly happy that there are knives that can be taken apart and knives that cannot, pick the one you like, I have both kinds.

I usually EDC a traditional slipjoint with good pinned rivets, over 25 years and it´s still great, I also have Spydies, Native and Delica and they are just fine.

I should add that I have taken riveted knives apart (SAKs) and put them back together, it´s not that hard really.
 
Originally posted by anthony cheeseboro
...........clearly designed to be taken and apart and woked on by those with the tools to do so.

Dagnabit!!! Don't be WOKING on my knives!!! :p :p :p larryd

You know what a WOK is for don't you?
WOKs are for chunking at Wabbits!! :D :D
 
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