Stitching Pony questions

[RayseM]

Hi All - I intend to build myself a stitching pony this week. The sheath making rabbit hole is meandering into the depths.

SO - I ask a few questions of those of you who use these so that I might get this right minus a bunch of trial end error. Thanks for your thoughts.

1) Do you prefer a bench clamp model or one that you can sit on or brace with your body in some way?

2) Are multiple articulations better than a simple stand up model? I do not intend this for other than sheaths.

3) Size of jaws? 3" wide plenty or is bigger - say 5" or 6" more useful?

4) I'm guessing if you use a bench top model the overall height is relative to your seating position and your body height? Mine will be relatively short.

5) Is a quick release set up gimmicky if you have a good turn knob for easily opening and closing the jaws?

What more to ask? I don't know. Any advice or elaborations from you will be appreciated.

Thanks much.

 

[duramax]

Hi All - I intend to build myself a stitching pony this week. The sheath making rabbit hole is meandering into the depths.

SO - I ask a few questions of those of you who use these so that I might get this right minus a bunch of trial end error. Thanks for your thoughts.

1) Do you prefer a bench clamp model or one that you can sit on or brace with your body in some way?

2) Are multiple articulations better than a simple stand up model? I do not intend this for other than sheaths.

3) Size of jaws? 3" wide plenty or is bigger - say 5" or 6" more useful?

4) I'm guessing if you use a bench top model the overall height is relative to your seating position and your body height? Mine will be relatively short.

5) Is a quick release set up gimmicky if you have a good turn knob for easily opening and closing the jaws?

What more to ask? I don't know. Any advice or elaborations from you will be appreciated.

Thanks much.

Ok so here’s my .02’s worth.

So for 1) I think you’ll want a combination of both. There will times when you might like to sit or maybe stand. Longer sheaths equal longer thread, standing might work better and vise versa.

2) I’ve only used my jaw clamp with rotation.

3) I would say 3” is fine , I padded mine with leather

4) height , if your building it make it comfortable for you

5) I have the quick release, I’d rather have the turn knob

Hope this helps

 

[iamunique127]

I haven't done as much leatherwork as some guys here but I did build a pony three years ago so can offer my experiences.
1) I prefer to sit when I work so I made mine to go under my thighs. If I'm using long thread I just choke up with the needles to shorten the length.
2) Mine is only upright and suits my needs. I make sheaths, belts, and some other stuff
3) I made mine from 1" x 4" lumber so it is 3 3/4" wide and padded with leather which is fine for me.
4) I made mine so it was fairly tall so I don't have to bend over to look when I'm stitching. I just estimated height when I was sitting.
5) I didn't want my thread catching on any knobs, screws or anything else so I chose to keep mine clamps together with rubber bands cut from motorcycle tire tubes. I can spread the jaws with two hands, they hold [plenty tight and if they loosen up I just make a new fresh one. Works perfect for me.

I hope that helps.

 

[RayseM]

All good thanks. Getting zeroed in on the size and a tension method.

 

[Robber58]

I have used all types over the years including a larger, professionally made stitching horse. For my work (sheaths, holsters, various cases and bags, portfolios etc.) I find the bigger sizes are not needed. I now use two sizes on my bench, one with 2 inch wide jaws and a 6.5 inch deep throat and one with 3 inch jaws and a 9 inch throat. Both have leather covered jaws and handwheels for tightening and both can be tilted parallel to the jaws for better positioning of the work when needed. The tilting can also prevent long threads from getting tangled in the adjustment wheels as you work. I clamp them to a short piece of board that is then clamped to my bench when used. The board allows me to better position them on the bench. They also have magnets in the jaws to hold the needles when I am adjusting the work or changing thread.
Randy

 

[RayseM]

Excellent info. I'm working on mine now. It's evolving even as I build it. Magnets - nice touch.

 

[RayseM]

You can buy these at Amazon for about $35.00 OR you can ask me to make one for you for $360.00. Prototype building is always expensive.

I came up with this basic and I think serviceable stitching pony. Working with material and hardware in house, so did not venture down the road of an articulated base. Can up grade if I decide that I need to. Only 13" high but on my stool, at my bench that is just right. If I need taller I can add blocking under it. Will simply be clamped to my work table. The next 2 days I will break it in and see what I missed by way of the ergonomics. Better by far, I'm sure, than what I have been doing.






I got my basic stock down to 3" wide but then added 4" wide jaws. This could be my first complaint. I think narrower will be better but again, I can modify as needed.



Thanks for your helpful comments everyone.

 

[DanF]

Good looking pony!

 

[iamunique127]

Yeah, looks great.

 

[jorasco312]

A few more thoughts.... height of jaw opening about nipple height... forearms level...; break all sharp edges, i.e., sand them over.... bump that sharp edge a few times and the lesson will take; the horizontal board NEEDS to be shaped to remove all edges... a few hours as is and the back of your legs will kill you. Hand sewing is hard enough....

 

[7stitches]

I like the looks of Dream Factory stitching ponies and horses. I'm getting by with a cheaper model now, but recently picked up an antique hand saw sharpening clamp, that with a few modifications should work fine for some of my sewing needs.