stock removal

D

dannyvp1

Joined
Jun 20, 2007
Messages
38
I wanting to try my hand at stock removal for blades, instead of buying blades. What kind of steel stock should i buy. I see alot of stuff about 1084 and 1095. Whats your input?
 
I'll beat Stacy to the punch... fill in your profile, it helps to answer you.

Are you planning to do your own heat treating? If so, what equipment do you have?

If not, most places that heat treat knife blades only accept air hardening steels.
 
Alright edited my profile some. Sorry about that.
I really dont know much about this. I do have access to a tool and die shop that has a heat treating oven though. To be honest i dont know the steps involved with making one from the stock removal process.
 
Don't do what I did, assuming you are only working with hand tools, which was to start with 1/4" thick 5160. Filing in the bevels has taken an eternity, so I strongly suggest you start with something much thinner. I've also found 5160 nearly impossible to drill with a hand drill, but this may or may not apply to all carbon steels...I just don't have any other experience to draw from there.

Have fun and good luck!
 
I've used 1/8" 1095 so far and been very pleased with it. With less than $100 in tools to start I made some ok knives.
 
I'd go with 1084 for a starter steel. It's a little cheaper than 1095 (trust me, you scrap some metal starting out) and it's got a more forgiving heating and quenching window.
 
If your shop has a heat treating oven and oil quenching facilities then an oil hardening steel such as 1084, 1095, 5160, O1, etc. would be feasible. You will want to figure out how you're going to protect the blades from scale and decarb unless the oven handles that via inert gas or vacuum (good things that those of us heat treating at home can't afford).

If they do all of their work with air hardening steels, you might consider A2. You'll also need some heat treating foil wrap for it. It's a bit more expensive that the above steels but makes a very good knife and is reasonably easy to grind and file. Disclaimer, it's also one of the two steels I'm using at the moment.

In either case you'll need to learn something about heat treating.
 
Well i have the following equipment.
-Bench grinder
-1" belt sander
-drill press
-band saw
I also have other hand tools and access to larger equipment.
I rather not use the larger equipment if i dont have to.

So i need a plan or sketch for the blade. (saw some nice ones on here a couple days ago but cant find them now)
Then i cut the blade to shape.
Grind the bevels. Not for sure how to do this yet.
Drill the holes in blade.
Heat treat and quench
then draw out
Is this it? or am i missing some steps.
 
You've got a basic idea, you'll want to drill holes before you grind, just in case it tries to get away from you. You might consider using files to put your bevels in on your first knife. Just buy good ones.

You should check out www.engnath.com and pick up a copy of The $50 Knife Shop. Steve Johsnon's video on his sub-hilt fighters is also very good and has helpful information for a new maker.
 
I have the $50 knife shop book. I need to read it a little closer though.

Next question is with polishing wheels and abrasives is it fine to buy the ones from home depot or should i order something different?
 
i wouldn't , well maybe to just get started but there are a lot of better suppliers that have better quailty products. i use mostly norton belts and jackson lee51 compound for the final buff. personally i like to use sewn muslin wheels, and loose for the last touch. there are a tremendous amount of different kinds and grits of grinding and polishing supplies, experiment with a few different ones till you find what works best for you.
 
You'll end up spending a lot of money on your abrasives if you buy from the hardware store. I'd order from Pop's, Tru-Grit, SuperGrit etc. I stick to stiff wheels and like to use green chrome and white rouge.

I would concentrate on a good hand rubbed finish for the first knife, doing it with sandpaper and files. A belt sander isn't going to save very much time over files and sandpaper if you're going to put the handwork in at the end anyways.
 
In the Goddard book he talks about how to draw file, which is how you'll want to remove your stock as it's much faster and stays fairly even. You can mark a center line, file in your plunges with a round file and then file everything else away until it looks right. If you keep your spine even and you file to a centerline (or double centerline) then you're going to stay even.
 
i found some 1075 and 1080 and 1095. Thats all i've had luck finding so far. Should i look for something else?
 
1075 and 1080 should work fine, 1080 is the "new" 1084, it's very similar, though the carbon is a bit less. Kelly Cupples sells both 1080 and 1084.
 
Who is kelly cupples?
Also it appears i need a bastard file, second cut file and smooth file. Are all of these needed?
 
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