Stone Sharpening Vs. Belt Sharpening?

I prefer hand sharpening as well. The closest I have to a guided system is a Sharpmaker. Had an Edge Pro years ago and sold it after a few months. It just made everything too "machine-like" in process and results. Edges were great, bevels were beautiful and even, but the edge had no "soul". I've never been after the absolute sharpest edge I can get. I want an edge that works for me and that I made myself with my own hands and tools. The EP just took too much of "me" out of the process.

These days I use the SM part of the time, but I do a lot of stuff with DMT diamond sharpeners and strops. That's actually working better for me since I carry Emerson folders most of the time when I carry a folder. My FBs are all BRKT and their convex edges do very well with my SM and strops.
 
If I were doing as a regular business I'd have to have a belt sander/grinder just for thinning stock out, and would likely finish most off by hand. Prices run from .50 to a buck an inch - at the low end it would be impossible to make $ by hand, but at $ an inch there is some room.

I used one for a bit on my machetes and transitioned to smaller cutlery as well but never got comfortable with it, though turned out some good edges.

It felt like most of the time I saved using it was spent doing additional QC to detect small wire edges and finesse the cosmetic appearance of the grind line at the shoulder. Once I learned how to do my larger tools on smaller stones I stopped using it entirely.
 
I love my Work Sharp KO, but understand Martin's point. Often after setting an initial edge on my KO, I'll use stones and/or sandpaper for tweaks or to clean up problem areas, especially towards the tip.

Martin, out of curiosity, what stones do you use most often for small pocketknives (if you're not using your Washboard ;)) ?

Andrew
 
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AFAustin said:
I love my Work Sharp KO, but understand Martin's point. Often after setting an initial edge on my KO, I'll use stones and/or sandpaper for tweaks or to clean up problem areas, especially towards the tip.

Martin, out of curiosity, what stones do you use most often for small pocketknives (if you're not using your Washboard ;)) ?

Andrew
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I normally don't think about it much, whatever I've been using recently is good enough. That said, for real small blades (which I don't do a ton of) I like diamond plates or waterstones that have had a side lapped enough to create a sharp outside corner - for me that is an important feature for doing the smaller blades. A soft Arkansas stone is a good choice too, depending on steel and if the corners are crisp. I find if I have to get tight to the ricasso/kick/small choil, if the stone has any 'ease' to the outside corner it won't work as well as one that does. On my Washboard, Crystalon stone, or waterstones that have had the outside edge lapped to prevent crumbling/damage, I often have to lower the handle and work the base of the heel at an angle to get the grind nice and tight. It works but takes more effort and time.

Is a fixed blade, but just last night I resharpened my Buck Hartsook on the jointer stones from my video and it turned out fantastic - I don't normally work s30v or other high carbide steels to a fine edge, but once the blade drops much below 3" I find I get a lot more utility from a finer edge no matter what its mission - there's just not enough real estate to use for a draw cut.
 
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