Stones or Sharpmaker?

I've noticed after surfacing/flating (which needed it inorder to be of any use) some of my Arkansas stones got very smooth.Probably a level up.But it was short lived.Because after I started to use them on knife sharpening,they quickly lost the fineness I had imparted on their surface and returned to close to their original grit.Only now flatter more level and losing the smoothness.DM
 
cotdt said:
Very interesting. What is surface ground fine?
Click to expand...

As I understand it, it means that it's the same as the fine stone, but then they grind the surface flat, which somehow makes it a finer abrasive. Perhaps it breaks off the surface of the abrasive particles or something?

Carriers do indeed matter, especially if it is softer then it will leave finer scratch patterns. Does the F and UF use the same carrier?
Click to expand...

Again, from my reading F and UF are manufactured identically, except that UF gets "surface ground" at the end. So yes, the carrier is the same.

All I know is that the Spyderco UF is technically a 5000 grit (3 micron) stone that acts like a 12000 grit stone. Weird.
Click to expand...

I'll link you here to the thread where I read this information. In that, Native Justice says his estimate for the UF is 3 - 4 micron. Not sure about the 12000 grit thing and I don't own one of those stones so I'm really unqualified to further opinionate.

Here's the thread discussing Spyderco ceramics. I hope you find it as interesting as I did.

Brian.
 
If I was starting fresh it would be the complete set of 8x3 DMT benchstones, DMT aligner clamp and a few strops. That covers the basics but you also need to think about re-curves and convex edges. If you don't have either then your ok but if you do other tools will be needed.
 
bgentry,Once you start discussing grits it opens the door for many unsubstantiated differences within a industry that SHOULD have verifiable standards.But don't.So, persons can say many things that are not provable and get by with it. A prime example is
grit charts.So, many and containing many differences.But staying within a classification may give more accuracy.ie.diamonds to diamonds,ceramic to ceramic ect.
Addressing the chart;I have talked w/ and know personally individuals who mfg and quarry Arkansas stones and they tell me the black hard is 1200 grit and 3-4 microns.But not the chart.
The Sharpton ceramic 2000 states a micron of 7.35. Whereas the Spyderco 2000 states 3-4 microns.?? But many of those Norton SiC and AO stones the charts usually have those very similar and consistent.So, I don't put much stock in most charts.If it gives me the desired finish and edge I want on a knife I'm somewhere in the 10 ring.With alittle more fine tuning I may hit the X. All and all I'm on target.DM
 
bgentry said:
As I understand it, it means that it's the same as the fine stone, but then they grind the surface flat, which somehow makes it a finer abrasive. Perhaps it breaks off the surface of the abrasive particles or something?



Again, from my reading F and UF are manufactured identically, except that UF gets "surface ground" at the end. So yes, the carrier is the same.



I'll link you here to the thread where I read this information. In that, Native Justice says his estimate for the UF is 3 - 4 micron. Not sure about the 12000 grit thing and I don't own one of those stones so I'm really unqualified to further opinionate.

Here's the thread discussing Spyderco ceramics. I hope you find it as interesting as I did.

Brian.
Click to expand...

That link answers a lot of questions. Spyderco's F stone is straight from the fire, while their UF is from the same material but grounded on a surface, so they end up with different particles.

Spyderco doesn't really know how many grit their stones are, and neither do most other stone manufacturers. Different companies also use different standards for their grit ratings, and it's impossible to compare. Based on scratch patterns, Spyderco's UF seem to compare to 12k stones from other stone manufacturers. Grit isn't everything. I got a 150 grit "coarse" sandpaper that gives a full mirror polish, while some 10k stones still have a cloudy sand-blasted finish.
 
Buying and/or using everything I could find I finally have settled on the Edgepro Apex. Best sharpener I have ever used. Nothing has ever gotten me the edges I now get with the Edgepro.
 
Stones. Definitly. They're more versatile, and when used correctly, are just as fast or faster.
 
If I could start from the beginning with what I know now, I would buy a larger coarse stone be it diamond or natural, good ole' fashioned Arkansas stone med. to small size, and a good ceramic rod. That would take care of all my needs for under $50-$70. I wish I could have the money back I spent on jigs, gadgets, and gizmos. They helped me learn the art of freehanding I suppose, so it wasn't a waste.

Knowledge and practice are more important to me than the equipment. Microbevels are your friends.
 
BJE, I agree! I'm glad I didn't spend much on gadgets,just mostly stones.But by now I have stumbled into having enough of the various grits and the correct size, 2X8 and 3X8.
Also,some good knowledge about sharpening, blade steels and stones.DM
 
I did go ahead and flatten one side of the Spyderco ceramic stone.Which brought it down to around .0004".Inorder to make use of the finer grit up to about 2000. Stropping is what really makes a difference. Even,Sal Glesser took note of this.Yet, getting it fine enough before stropping is laying correct
ground work inorder to realize the benefits.Also,I noticed it cuts S60V easily.So,I'm pleased.DM
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top