Storage and rust>..

Battle Creek Knives

Battle Creek Knives

Joined
Feb 23, 2010
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I took out my AKB about a week and a half ago, nothing major but had it with me and used it to chop some.. When I came home I washed the sap etc off the blade, dried blade, applied mineral oil and put back in sheath. Today I broke it out again and :eek: there was rust spots on both side of the blade.. I treat all my knives the same and have never seen this on 5160 or any carbon for that matter from storage..

I took some 600 to the spots, took the knife out and battoned like mad for kindling, treated blade and put away..

Its no big deal just wondering if anyone else has had this happen..
 
"Ashes to ashes. And dust to dust. If you don't take it out and use it, it's going to rust."

I know this dosn't apply to you. I just had the urge to say that.
 
unparked said:
Perhaps the sheath is trapping moisture that would otherwise evaporate.
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I would seriously doubt that from the traditional "wood lined" sheaths, which would obviously absorb any moisture into the wood. Come to think of it, so would the leather "KEF" sheaths..

I've seen some small spots pop up from my "users", even though I haven't had them long. I'd venture to guess it's from whatever sap/residue/etc.. that doesn't get completely cleaned off after use. For instance, Pine tar has a nominal PH around 3.5, which is very acidic, and extremely difficult to wash off.

From what I've seen however, a scotch-brite, or generic dish scrubber works better than any lower grit sandpaper/microfilm to remove that trash. Hell I even removed a full forced patina off my AK with one.


I wouldn't worry about it. It's carbon steel, refer to the previous "old adage" and keep chopping. ;)
 
May i ask what sheath or scabbard that you use? goos from the tree after we re-sheath might stuck inside the sheath hence promoting moisture and worst pitting on the blade. Should repetitively re-sheath the blade to see the stained area.

Most of my khuks are used to chop woods/branches/vines with saps;
Especially the rubber trees (sticky rubber milk) and thorny vines (purple fluid that turns black within few mins) here.

What i did was to use a rag soaked in (warm to hot) water, carefully run the rag over the areas with goo, leaving the stubborn one.Make sure you don't burn your fingers with the hot rag.
Then wipe it clean. Smear some toothpaste (yes you read it right) over the stubborn area and use a used toothbrush to scrub the goo off. You won't see anything for now since it's all gunked in grey.
Once again wipe it clean with a rag soaked in warm water. You should get a nice mirror finish for now.:D

I did this for a few times and finally with the more frequently used model i just patina it. It looks awesome!

Favored a chiruwa handle sometimes ago but with the tropical climate where corrosion is abundant and my sweaty palms adds on to assault especially around the corners/edges of steel meets scales that triggered me to patina it.

I'm reading this article as we discuss this. With the recent Xmas Dotd it's a great time to pick up a rat or a partial tang to play with.
http://sites.google.com/site/vorpalcustomknives/shop-techniques-3/what-tang-type-is-best
 
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I also have a similar problem.

I assume it's because of the tree goo from the scabbard wood itself, esp when the wood is not totally dry. Whenever I have a new knife, I spray machine oil inside the scabbard to oil the wood. Then the problem solves!
 
Before trying HI, I bought a khukuri from a competitor, and it was shipped to me directly from Nepal. After several weeks in transit, with me waiting impatiently for it to arrive, I opened the package to find that the blade had A LOT of unsightly rust on it. I figure it was caused by wet wood in the scabbard.

Makes me appreciate the extra Quality Assurance that Yangdu provides here in the USA before HI products are shipped (quickly!) to customers.
 
Sometimes when cutting wood with lots of sap, the blade isn't really cleaned but mearly wiped off. Small bits of sap are actually still stuck to the blade. Then when the oil is applied it is just put on over the dried sap. The sap (moisture) is still going to rust the blade even though the oil is over the top of it.

The cure is to wash the blade well in soapy water (or solvent of your choice) and be sure all the sap is removed. I use a scrub pad to be sure everything has been taken off the blade. Then wipe it dry and feel the blade with your hand. If you feel anything that isn't smooth steel then you missed some sap. After you are sure everything is off the blade and it is dry, then apply oil as usual.

Another good idea is to never put a wet, dirty or sap covered kukri back in the sheath. The sap or whatever will be transfered to the wood on the sheath and will be there forever and continually foul your blade. I know what your next question is going to be. What do I do with the kukri after I use it? I don't know, I didn't invent these things. One thing I do know is this simple math equation.

Carbon steel + anything = rust. Know it, learn it, live it!

I carry a Scotch-Brite pad and can of gun oil in my truck and on the Polaris and I clean it off after each use. Quick and easy. If I am packing it on my person I carry a Scotch-Brite pad and a presoaked gun rag and that works just as well. If you don't have that stuff and find yourself in the field with a dirty blade, use a handfull of sand and scrub the blade with it and then let it air dry for a minute before you oil it and put it into the sheath. You can give it better cleaning when you get home.

Good luck,
Bill
Virginia
 
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shortwinger, you are probably right.. I probably didn't clean it good enough last time out IIRC. I sure hope there is no sap on the inside of sheath, I'll keep an eye on it and yeah probably should of used scotch brite instead of sandpaper..

I've never had a problem ever with any of my knives, so I guess there's always that one time..

thanks guys..
 
What do I do with the kukri after I use it? I don't know, I didn't invent these things. One thing I do know is this simple math equation.
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I noticed it depends on how snug the sheath is to the blade. The Ganga Ram came to me with a very loose fitting sheath, so I can stick the khukuri right back in even with grass stains on it and just clean it off at home. I can't do that with the Bilton, the sheath is way too snug. So the little blade just gets stuffed into a reinforced belt loop on my pants until I get it home. Put a shirt or jacket over it so the blissninnies don't flip out and that's that.
 
Just repeating and agreeing with 2 previous points:
-snug sheaths do need to be closely monitored in high humidity but at least are easy to identify,
-if a blade was wet, don't just assume you have dried it well and don't put it in the sheath. Instead, use WD-40 first then mineral oil or Ren Wax, keep it separate for a few days somewhere dry, then clean the oil well and reapply it before finally sheathing the kuk if all looks well. Then check on it again in a few days. Overkill? Even that is not enough if the sheath inside was wet or dirty. If in the wild, use a plastic sheath or a Steve sheath or any cheapo sheath with a drainage hole, but don't compromise the condition of the traditional leather sheath. Annoying? Even H-1 steel is not without its downsides and is not cost effective for large knives yet.
Respect high-carbon steel and it will last you at least until scientists come up with light sabers or steel that never dulls or breaks and cuts diamonds and cars like butter.
 
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Respect high-carbon steel and it will last you at least until scientist come up with light sabers or steel that never dulls or breaks and cuts diamonds and cars like butter.
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:D I think Howard Clark almost figured out how to make the above with L-6 steel? Though I doubt his katanas cut cars like butter.

It still blows my mind that a bunch of guys in third world conditions make these blades for us with nothing but hand tools, fires and boiling water!
 
hunglvq said:
I assume it's because of the tree goo from the scabbard wood itself, esp when the wood is not totally dry.
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An excellent explanation to a problem I have had with just a few HI Khuk's, certainly not all of them. :confused:

I will try your suggestion. Thanks. :thumbup:
 
I get the same issue and maintain my blades with mineral oil as well-and we have minimal humidity around here. Try a silicone gun cloth, you aren't going to be cooking with your khukri anyway. I think that will provide longer lasting, more consistent protection. I like scotchbrite pads alot better for removing the spots, they come off easy and it doesn't affect the satin or villager finishes.
 
When I used mineral oil or canola oil on my HI BAS I had oxidation issues. I'm using 3-in-1 oil and now I don't have that problem.
 
hunglvq said:
I also have a similar problem.

I assume it's because of the tree goo from the scabbard wood itself, esp when the wood is not totally dry. Whenever I have a new knife, I spray machine oil inside the scabbard to oil the wood. Then the problem solves!
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Me too... same problem - same solution :D
Works like a charm. W-20 or some similar pressurized anti-rust oil.
 
I use W40 here but it vaporizes really quick, then the protection wont last very long. Machine oil can last longer.

DanSmithy said:
Me too... same problem - same solution :D
Works like a charm. W-20 or some similar pressurized anti-rust oil.
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There is always the option of coating the blade with hot\cold blueing or painting it to protect from rust. But it would take away from traditional look.
 
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