storing black iron fixtures?

NickWheeler

NickWheeler

Joined
Dec 3, 1999
Messages
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So for those of you with an accumulation of black iron fixtures, how do you store them?

I'm getting a pretty good collection of stuff like 1-2-3 blocks, V-blocks, angle plates, etc... And I'm worried about rust.

I keep a light coat of oil, but it's VERY thin... as I don't want to get oil all over everything.

I'm wondering about something like Ren wax all over them, or even just paste wax... and then keeping stuff stored in drawers with silica gel packets.

So how do you keep yours?
 
Thanks for the link Fitz!!! Cool site! I'm gonna give that stuff a try.

I know us "heat and beat" guys aren't supposed to mind rust, but I hate it! lol
 
The bane of black iron is moisture - salty moisture is worse and sweaty fingers can leave enough of a deposit to initiate corrosion. A lot will depend on where you live, where you store them and what you store them in. What treatment you use will also depend on whether you're talking long term (months/years?) or short term storage. A lot of steel tooling is still stored and shipped in oiled paper - works for the manufacturers so it's a worthwhile option to consider

If you're looking at thinner coatings for short term storage then I suggest Eezox - dries dry and a little bit goes a long way. Ren Wax is also good but takes a little more effort to apply for 100% coverage. I've also used commercial lanolin and beeswax concoctions successfully. Avoid linseed unless you enjoy cleaning it off after it hardens and lubricant sprays like WD40 tend to evaporate off without leaving enough oil for protection.
 
I have my "V" blocks in a wooden box oiled with engine oil and wrapped in a cloth, been that way for nearly 20 years now, no rust.
you would need a sturdy box for angle plates though.I just give those a light wipe with a oily rag and they sit on a shelf.

Richard
 
Hi Nick,
If you're looking for an inexpensive source of silica gel, try 'premium' kitty litter. Got to check the label to make sure you have the right stuff, after that you can decide what kind of 'packets' to make.

Good luck with the rust, Craig
 
Thanks for all the advice fellas :)

You'd think since I've been using so much carbon steel for knives in the last 8 years that I wouldn't have to ask something like this... but all the tooling just seems to present some different problems.

My biggest angle plate (which isn't really all that big) weighs about 10 lb. I think it weighed 15 before I cleaned all the cosmoline off ;)

I have a couple thumbprints on my no holes 1-2-3 blocks, and I thought I was being careful... hence my post/question.

Thanks again guys, I'll put the info to good use. :)
 
I've always heard that moth balls will keep rust down in tool drawers and such. I haven't tried it but I would like to hear from someone who has.
Lynn
 
I should could become the Silica gel king of this place. At the refinery I work at every few months we load that stuff in a giant vessel that removes water from the Jet fuel. Usually we put, in about 10-12 1 ton bags. in the form of of chunks about 3/4"x3/4" and 1/2 think. I just set a coffee can full of it in my machine tool bench. The coffee can has holes in the bottom and sets raised slightly over an old pie pan. Water actually drips out the coffee can into the piepan. I dump it once in a while. If you lay a piece of it on the concrete it will develop a little water spot around it as it sucks any moisture from the air.
 
Somebody on one of the forums tested every rest preventative you could think of. If I recall, Birchwood Casey's "Sheath" finished #1 (looks like they are now calling it "Barricade"), but the fumes are so nasty it was not recommended. IIRC, Break-Free CLP was rated #2. I have been using it on the table for my bandsaw on on my table saw. So far I have had nary a spot of rust. On my knives, I use Sentry Solutions' Tuf-Cloth. I am quite pleased with it. You can get larger silica moisture removers from Gun Supply shops. They can be dried out in the oven when the soak up too much moister. I keep one in my gun safe.
 
The Birchwood Casey "Sheath"product is what I use when I mail out knives. It stinks, but it's been the best I've found to keep knives rust free.

I hadn't tried it on the fixtures because it seems to all end up on my pants after I wipe my hands on them ;)

I'll pick up some BreakFree, thanks for the info! :)

I bought some "rust preventative gun wrap" from Brownell's, but I have just wrapped blades in them. Seems like it would be a hassle to keep tools in the stuff.
 
Hey Nick,

Maybe you should try moving up here where we have no humidity!!! I can almost leave stuff out in the rain and it doesn't rust!!! LOL
 
Chris Meyer said:
Somebody on one of the forums tested every rest preventative you could think of. If I recall, Birchwood Casey's "Sheath" finished #1 (looks like they are now calling it "Barricade"), but the fumes are so nasty it was not recommended. IIRC, Break-Free CLP was rated #2. I have been using it on the table for my bandsaw on on my table saw. So far I have had nary a spot of rust. On my knives, I use Sentry Solutions' Tuf-Cloth. I am quite pleased with it. You can get larger silica moisture removers from Gun Supply shops. They can be dried out in the oven when the soak up too much moister. I keep one in my gun safe.
Click to expand...

The last review I saw on another forum had concluded
Eezox #1
Tuf-Glide #2
Rem Oil #3

I have not had any problems since switching to Eezox for blades and steels but continue to use RenWax on sheaths and handles. For the few vintage tools I have hanging on walls of toolshed (display only) which already have lots of legacy corrosion I use a generous dose of boater's lanolin spray
 
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