Straight Handle on a Single Bit Axe

[Skiv]

A good example of this principle in application is to look at "pistol grip" sport fencing weapons.

Which, to a traditional fencer, are anathema. The original purpose of the various designs of "anatomic" fencing weapon grips was to allow people with injured or malformed hands to participate in the sport.

But to be fair, like our discussion of straight axe handles, it's what you use. As a foil fencer I prefer a very stiff blade and a French grip. The sensitivity is in how you hold it, and some people using anatomic grips can really hammer you because they don't have that "sentiment du fer."

A friend of mine has a single-bit axe with a straight handle, but the handle-maker put a "hook" at the end instead of swelling or knob. He prefers a slightly shorter handle than common, which puts his left hand solidly down into that hook when he's chopping.

 

[Skiv]

Did you notice how open those axes were hung in that picture

Was lookin' at that. I had the thought that by the time the edge got to the surface to be cut deep in the tree, the open hanging would let the edge meet the wood more nearly straight-on.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Which, to a traditional fencer, are anathema. The original purpose of the various designs of "anatomic" fencing weapon grips was to allow people with injured or malformed hands to participate in the sport.

But to be fair, like our discussion of straight axe handles, it's what you use. As a foil fencer I prefer a very stiff blade and a French grip. The sensitivity is in how you hold it, and some people using anatomic grips can really hammer you because they don't have that "sentiment du fer."

A friend of mine has a single-bit axe with a straight handle, but the handle-maker put a "hook" at the end instead of swelling or knob. He prefers a slightly shorter handle than common, which puts his left hand solidly down into that hook when he's chopping.

I always used an Italian grip when fencing foil, myself, but I was always more of a sabre man. Orthopedic grips are, in best practice, reserved for competition. If intending to compete with an orthopedic grip most instructors will urge the use of a French grip during practice to maintain sensitivity. The advantages of the various orthopedic grips can't be denied, but caution must be taken not to use them as a crutch.

Would be interesting to see one of those "hooked" hafts! :thumbup:

 

[300Six]

In his book "The Ax Book", D. Cook argues that all axes, single and double bit, should have straight handles. His argument goes something like this. A hundred years ago, professional loggers used single bit axes with straight handles. Then along came double bit axes which have always had straight handles and all the pros switched over to double bits and never looked back. It was after that changeover that curved handles came on the market and the hardware stores got on board so since then all the single bits had curved handles. But the pros, now armed with their double bits, never used the curved handles on any axes. He goes on to support his case with a bunch of diagrams and analysis of rotational forces concluding that the straight handle is more efficient on all axes.

Well.....I don't really know but since I had several single bit heads in the shop I thought it would be fun to hang this Kelly on a straight haft and finished it yesterday. I have not tried it out yet but I do kind of like how it looks

.

Lots of reaction to this post but I thought to go back to the very first entry and tell you personally "I like this. It's straight, it's simple, it's strong, it works, and to top it off it; looks good". You sir have set a precedent for me. Instead of seeking out fancy-curved factory handles (that are mostly frivolous for durability these days) I might just begin to start eye-balling around for nice rough wood quarters or blanks that can be shaped with a saw, spokeshave and rasp. You don't need to re-hang an axe very often if it is done right to start with. Mature stands of Ironwood grow all over the place around here, is hated by wood splitters, foresters, furniture makers and sawmills, and is strong as a proverbial ox.

 

[thunderstick]

A DB bit axe works well with a straight handle because it perfectly balances. The SB does not necessarily balance on the center of the handle--usually it is bit heavy so the poll does not come around so quick on a glancing blow, therefore the straight handle does not really do anything for the balance of the SB axe. I like straight handles for splitting because its a simple up an down and the curve is actually in the way. The curved handle shows its value in felling or limbing--working the horizontal and semi-horizontal angles.

Finally the curved handle is the choice of professional competitors--this should explain the efficiency of the design for chopping pretty clearly--they would only use th most efficient chopping designs.

No straight handles for me on a SB axe.

 

[theDH]

i prefer a curved haft for splitting axes because if you miss the chopping block and the axe is going to strike the ground the curve magnifying your wrist pivoting should give you enough time to react and pivot your wrist enough so the cheek hits the ground and the edge doesn't go hunting for rocks.

 

[Skweeker]

Late to the party but this subject is one I've spent a bit of time thinking about...

The beauty of a straight handled California rip claw hammer is that the head alignment is the same no matter where on the handle you hold it or which side of the hammer you are using.

I doubt many current day framers ever use the side of the hammer at all.

Is that because the haft is straight or is it because its a maul and it doesn't stick easily so I am not changing my foot placement to retrieve the bit from the round?

Replication of a repeated motion with subtle, controlled variations leads to consistent accuracy. Like shooting hoops from the top of the key.

Could it be that special ergonomically formed single bit axe handles came into complete dominance in response to a need for more controlled and comfortable chopping from atop the fallen log? It seems to me a bit of a twisted, backward working rationale, if I am understanding what G-pig is trying to explain about where and when a curved handle makes sense. When I chop from up there, and that only occurs in the notching stage of the hewing process for me since I would never buck with an axe anyway, I don't even want the whole cutting edge to engage on the lower/under side because I want the bottom of the notch horizontal, all the more reason for a straight handle. Cuts with the toe predominate down there.

I think it's called "joggling" or "juggling". Maybe that would help the discussion?

I have never (yet) had any reason to notch a log in preparation for hewing but when bucking into manageable sections I greatly prefer a curved haft and one that's as long as possible though my experience is not extensive. Even with an arm span greater than my height I find bucking with a short haft (under 32") simply miserable. Not only do I have have to generate much more arm speed with the shorter stick but I also have to bend much more dramatically at the waist thus calling the Psoas muscle into action - a sure fire back ache in the making. I certainly tire more easily with a short haft. A wider stance helps some but then I have to almost whack myself in the jewels once I'm into the log a bit to save my wrists and then I'm starting to sink the heel of the bit in rather than the width of the blade and this demands extra swings. I have not tried a "closed" hang but I don't want to use the shorter length handle that it demands with my, shall we say, physique.

Im not particularly clear on what your beef is with the concept of a closed hang being part of an alternate set of differences to accommodate comfortable wrists and hands on the top of a log.

Not directed at me but I wanted to chime in - For me it's the shorter handle that is then required. I was looking at a downed 20+" log that blocked our path a few weeks back. As all I had was a 28" axe I didn't relish the idea of squatting like a bear in the woods to reach down to the lower portions. We decided to turn around and go the other way. It might have been a different story if I had a full sized SB with a curved handle - "might have" being the operative words.

The where and when questions making reference to specific instances, where; a top the log, and when; cutting down low, and not general questions of space and time, being historical questions more interesting to some than others. But we are in agreement that the closed head and the bent handle probably would have nearly similar effects relating our wrists.

Again, I disagree with respect to the ability to use a longer haft when the handle is curved vs. the length limitation of a straight haft ESPECIALLY with a closed hang.

That S shape gives more head speed to the axe at the end of the swing. It does so by the off hand sliding down the haft, the right hand for a right handed person.

I'm not sure there is much to this as the most "curves" used in athletic activities to generate an increase in speed are of the decreasing radius type (there may be a specific technical term for this action/effect) wherein the shortening arc of the motion generates additional speed of rotation. Examples are a gymnasts back flip (most obvious on doubles or triples) a skater's scratch spin, or a boxer's hook. Besides, my hand slide on a straight or curved handle.

I just bought a Council 3.5 # Jersey Pattern w/ straight handle. It will be my only straight handle single bit. It will be interesting to compare it to my KP Jersey pattern w/curved handle. It won't be an entirely fair comparison. The Council comes with a 36" haft. The KP has a 32".

I bought on as well but the blade was so tilted to the length of the handle that I sent it back. I'll buy another when I locate a retailer that stocks this model. I do prefer straight handles for splitting and am currently using an old Jersey beater on a curved handle. It does make it tougher to predict the bit placement when I use the Tom Clark twist.

There aren't even mills today that could handle such a monster log. We have one local mill that still cuts logs over 36". Many of the log trucks I see in N. Idaho are carrying over 100 pieces.

I saw one truck within the last year that had a single huge log on it. I'd guesstimate between five and six feet at the but end. The truck following it had only three logs of varying widths. There's a little bit of old growth still left in private hands around here. Someone told me there was still a local mill that could handle big stuff.

 

[Ernest DuBois]

I think it's called "joggling" or "juggling". Maybe that would help the discussion?

I don't think the use of jargon normally ever helps.

E.DB.

 

[Skweeker]

Ha! Perhaps not. The origins of the word may purely American and not derived from a language spoken on a different continent.

I believe I only heard the term in one of these two videos. Both men are knowledgeable historians - something I am not.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Au1TbIyLcPU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-wXYgwjcqw

 

[ODB]

I love seeing a simple machine being overanalyzed. I'm not being sarcastic. It's an interesting situation that can lead to a variety of interesting discussions. That's why I love axes.

 

[Frank-New Zealand]

Yeah me too.

Some of those old bushmen from 'back in the day' would be laughing in their graves.

They would just say "Give an axe and a haft and I'll fit them together to suit me". And that's all there is to it. An axe to fit the
axe-man.

regards...Frank

 

[CedarEater]

I doubt many current day framers ever use the side of the hammer at all.

Ha ha, good one. I hit stuff with the side of my hammer plenty and its still much more comfortable for me to use a straight handle in that application too. Sometimes I even use the handle to hit stuff and pry things too.

 

[Ernest DuBois]

I love seeing a simple machine being overanalyzed. I'm not being sarcastic. It's an interesting situation that can lead to a variety of interesting discussions. That's why I love axes.

Well, for better or worse, this kind of knowledge was never written down, but passed on by word and deed up till the moment when it died out for all practical purposes. These things have to be now rediscovered and that is not a simple process but in order for anything sensible to come of the effort some understanding needs to be applied and the anything goes attitude kept in check otherwise those codgers in their graves will be having a good laugh and rightly so.

E.DB.

 

[Square_peg]

That's exactly where we're at, Ernest.

And not everything that those fellows of old did with their axes was right or best. Some of it was just traditional - done that way because that's the way it had always been done. Some investigation and sharing of ideas is in order.

100 years ago a Maine man, an Oregon man and a Dutchman were not able to share their experiences and ideas quickly.

 

[bbforstr]

Got my Council, Jersey pattern w/ 36" straight handle yesterday. It came pretty sharp with a cardboard sheath. I used it today for sharpening some stakes for concrete forms. I'm pretty impressed with the tool. I haven't put a file to it yet to test the steel. I love the look of the straight handle. It should be accurate for splitting. I'm not to sure about chopping though. It still seems intuitive that a curved handle will throw a chip better than a straight handle.

 

[garry3]

Got my Council, Jersey pattern w/ 36" straight handle yesterday. It came pretty sharp with a cardboard sheath. I used it today for sharpening some stakes for concrete forms. I'm pretty impressed with the tool. I haven't put a file to it yet to test the steel. I love the look of the straight handle. It should be accurate for splitting. I'm not to sure about chopping though. It still seems intuitive that a curved handle will through a chip better than a straight handle.

Your intuition is dead on. Just take a couple swings with equal weight axes on the same length handle. I think it could be proven with a chronograph. I would be a biased tester however. I will just point to the timber sports crowd and not see a straight hafted axe to prove my point.

 

[bbforstr]

Garry.

I think you're right. For chopping the curved handle has an advantage over a straight handle. I still love the look of the straight handle. Since I do all of my bucking with a chain saw, I chose the straight handle because of the accuracy. It's way harder to twist the handle to toss a chip or throw split pieces apart though.

This is a great thread. Different tools for different jobs.

 

[garry3]

Garry.

I think you're right. For chopping the curved handle has an advantage over a straight handle. I still love the look of the straight handle. Since I do all of my bucking with a chain saw, I chose the straight handle because of the accuracy. It's way harder to twist the handle to toss a chip or throw split pieces apart though.

This is a great thread. Different tools for different jobs.

To further complicate things there are curved handles in different degrees of curves to them. It is interesting to swing the different hafts to compare.
I don't mean to come across as being anti straight handle either because as you have mentioned they are not inferior by any means. I think the handles are stronger and seem to take less abuse than the forward sweep of a curved handle.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Well, for better or worse, this kind of knowledge was never written down, but passed on by word and deed up till the moment when it died out for all practical purposes. These things have to be now rediscovered and that is not a simple process but in order for anything sensible to come of the effort some understanding needs to be applied and the anything goes attitude kept in check otherwise those codgers in their graves will be having a good laugh and rightly so.

E.DB.

That's exactly where we're at, Ernest.

And not everything that those fellows of old did with their axes was right or best. Some of it was just traditional - done that way because that's the way it had always been done. Some investigation and sharing of ideas is in order.

100 years ago a Maine man, an Oregon man and a Dutchman were not able to share their experiences and ideas quickly.

Exactly this. I've hit up against a ton of the phenomenon in my scythe research. Lots of information is just totally absent and finding answers to certain questions is maddeningly difficult simply because people didn't write the stuff down. Likewise I com across countless atrocities of repairs and adjustments to scythes that are VERY much the wrong way to go about it. Just like how today it's a rare man that truly cherishes his tools and keeps them "just so", so to was it then--even if that sort of fellow was perhaps slightly less rare in his day and age. Most people have always viewed tools as an end to a means.

 

[Skiv]

Just like how today it's a rare man that truly cherishes his tools and keeps them "just so", so to was it then--even if that sort of fellow was perhaps slightly less rare in his day and age. Most people have always viewed tools as an end to a means.

When we use human-powered tools we learn very quickly what cuts down efficiency. Dull edges, poorly balanced, mis-aligned, handles not fit to the user -- it's the same whether we're talking scythes, axes, shovels, knives, saws or swords. Peter Vido has said that "a competent mower can use the worst scythe, but a poor mower cannot use the best scythe." Again, substitute "axe" or any other tool for "scythe" and it's still true. With a power tool it's easy to just "give 'er more juice" and power through it -- but keeping saw chains sharp sure speeds up the job, don't it? I have a big power head for the size of my bar -- with a hungry chain it'll really tear $%^& up.

It's hard to remember in a mass-produced age that every one of us will like a different axe. The very simplicity of the tool gives us almost unlimited freedom to tailor it to our specific needs. For me, the fun is in learning more and more about it and using that knowledge to fine-tune the tool even more. I peen and hone scythes a LOT different than I did four years ago (let alone 20 years ago!). My insight into what makes an axe "sharp" has really come a long way in a couple of years. I've concluded that my Dad simply beat a lotta wood into submission.

I just reshaped the haft on my kindling splittin' axe to turn the swell at the butt into a hook, like my neighbour's custom axe. I'm finding I already like it a lot, but might not like it so much if some of the variables were different. I also slimmed the haft down to 13/16" along its length because that vintage NOS Walters DB I found had that from the factory. It's like that little axe feels better in my hand now. It's essentially a hatchet head on a boy's axe handle -- light enough for my wife to use with bad shoulders if I'm gettin' lazy and not keepin' the woodbox by the cookstove full.

One thing I find is that since I've spent more time with crosscut saws, scythes, broadforks and axes I'm not using the power equipment near as much. In its place, sure -- but it isn't my go-to anymore and frankly I'm enjoyin' the peace & quiet and exercise.