Strider concerns

L

LIMELITE

Joined
Dec 23, 2010
Messages
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I am concerned about the break in period for a Strider SMF.
First of all do they actually get easier to unlock the blade over time? If so, obviously I realize it depends on the usage, but does this take days, weeks, or months? Are there cases when they don't break in? Secondly, which would be better oil, fluorinated grease or neither to help action? And finially since I am new to this I was wondering if once you oil or grease a knife and that area appears black should this be wiped off or left on? My instincts tell me to wipe off?
 
If the knife is a user, I don't worry about oil marking the metal.

A framelock can be hard to unlock when the metal to metal contact of titanium to steel galls. Take a pencil and scribble on the lockface to lubricate it. This should eliminate a lot of the stiffness.

The pivot action will break in pretty quickly. I disassemble and wipe down the parts with Tuff-Cloth. This cleans out any grit that might have collected in there.
 
Esav and RevDevil,

Thanks - I will try the suggestions. I am new to bladeforums and just now starting a small personal collection of knives. I definitely have gotten the bug!
 
It doesn't void the warranty to take a Strider apart. If you mess something up and have to send it in for them to put it together for you they'll charge you. The warranty should be intact for the future though.

My SnG took a few weeks to break in. It does have PB washers as well. He might have been talking about how the G10 side doesn't have any liners.
 
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mongomondo said:
It doesn't void the warranty to take a Strider apart. If you mess something up and have to send it in for them to put it together for you they'll charge you. The warranty should be intact for the future though.

My SnG took a few weeks to break in. It does have PB washers as well. BBQ might have been talking about how the G10 side doesn't have any liners.
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+1 on both counts
 
The Stonewashed blades break in faster than the coated ones do.

Once they are broken in they are smooth as butter.
 
And here are forementioned washers :)
You can see they are different between PT and SnG

PT:
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SnG:
7852d86ff3.jpg


All in all Strider's are knives you need not to be afraid of taking apart, fixed little issues, lubed and assembled back. Enjoy! :)

3dcaff3d31.jpg


4e55ecae3c.jpg


d4f7ff476c.jpg
 
Gress, Thank you - very helpful! Anyone - I'm concerned with a new SMF - should I take apart and grease to loosen up or can one simply oil from the outside? I guess I'm confused on whether to oil or grease it to help with the loosing up the action. Maybe it is meant to be tight - I don't know?
 
LIMELITE said:
Gress, Thank you - very helpful! Anyone - I'm concerned with a new SMF - should I take apart and grease to loosen up or can one simply oil from the outside? I guess I'm confused on whether to oil or grease it to help with the loosing up the action. Maybe it is meant to be tight - I don't know?
Click to expand...

just few drops of motor oil , and play with it open -close .. open -close .... more you use it better it will get .
 
I double this. Actually I only use a tiny drop of Miltec in between the washers and the blade. The framelock is better just dry or with a bit of a pencil scribble.
 
Gress said:
SnG:
7852d86ff3.jpg


All in all Strider's are knives you need not to be afraid of taking apart, fixed little issues, lubed and assembled back. Enjoy! :)
Click to expand...

Wow, is that all there is to taking apart a Strider? I wonder why people have such a hard time putting it back together properly that they had to explicitly say that there was a charge for reassembling it properly.

Is there some sort of trick with the lockbar where you could mess up the lockup?
 
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