Strider Rust

gafirefighter said:
I guess I just did not think about it. I have other S30V blades that I have never had rust on, but most of my knives are not saturated with sweat for 2 hours. I will get it cleaned up, the lock up fixed, and use the crap out of it.

Adam
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Still no excuse for an S30V blade to rust that badly. My S30V Native went with me to the beach and spent hours in salt water in my swim trunks and had zero rusting at the end of the day. You seem like a chill dude but honestly you should be upset and ask Strider to take care of you :D.
 
OP, I'm know where you're coming from. I had my striped SMF in pocket all day a couple of weeks ago, on a near hundred degree day. It got sweaty would be an understatement. Completely drenched is more adequate. I noticed some rusting around the stop pin and on the section of blade that was in the handle. Yeah, it sucked. I searched another forum and found that an eraser will take it off and not screw up the finish. It worked for me. The beadblast has texture that captures the moisture and causes the rust. It'sq only superficial, but it does kinda suck to see it, IMO. Try that, it really worked for me, then I just soak mine down every so often in WD 40 or Rem Oil.
Edit.... yeah michaelmcgo you said it much better...
 
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It's the bead blast finish they use to make the tiger stripes.

Iv been using a Digi cam coated SnG for about a year and a half and have no problems or complaints. I just stick her under some running water every now and then and shake it off, no problems with rust what so ever. Had a bead blasted(ie. tiger striped) SnG a few years ago that showed some spots when I treated it the same way. :cool:

Their digi coating kicks butt, here a little video to prove it :D

[youtube]2qFl9UFll-4[/youtube]

[youtube]EIpbfa_cjjA[/youtube]
 
jcmahler said:
OP, I'm know where you're coming from. I had my striped SMF in pocket all day a couple of weeks ago, on a near hundred degree day. It got sweaty would be an understatement. Completely drenched is more adequate. I noticed some rusting around the stop pin and on the section of blade that was in the handle. Yeah, it sucked. I searched another forum and found that an eraser will take it off and not screw up the finish. It worked for me. The beadblast has texture that captures the moisture and causes the rust. It'sq only superficial, but it does kinda suck to see it, IMO. Try that, it really worked for me, then I just soak mine down every so often in WD 40 or Rem Oil.
Edit.... yeah michaelmcgo you said it much better...
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I just gave that a try and it works really well. I took pretty much everything off and did not mess up the finish at all. Great little peice of information. Thanks for that.

Adam
 
gafirefighter said:
Yeah, not a big deal. Like I said, it is not hurt, just stained. I guess this will become my away from work blade. The funny thing is, it has rusted, and has to go back to Strider because it is not locking up all the way, but I absolutely love this knife. There is just something about it.

Adam
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I absolutely love my striders. My stonewashed one does not rust as well as my beadblasted (but, heck, with use that one became almost stonewashed too).
On a side note, if it were me, I would take the knife apart and clean it up myself as opposed to sending it back to spa :)
 
Gress said:
I absolutely love my striders. My stonewashed one does not rust as well as my beadblasted (but, heck, with use that one became almost stonewashed too).
On a side note, if it were me, I would take the knife apart and clean it up myself as opposed to sending it back to spa :)
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It is going to the spa because it has up and down play with the lock bar slipping a little. I already cleaned the rust off myself :).

Adam
 
gafirefighter said:
It is going to the spa because it has up and down play with the lock bar slipping a little. I already cleaned the rust off myself :).

Adam
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You're welcome, about the lockbar slipping, try a qtip and rubbing alcohol on the blade tang and lock face, that worked on one of mine. It may need a bigger stop pin though.
 
jcmahler said:
You're welcome, about the lockbar slipping, try a qtip and rubbing alcohol on the blade tang and lock face, that worked on one of mine. It may need a bigger stop pin though.
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I tried that already. It locks well, but it is almost like the lock bar does not quite seat and slides a little.

Adam
 
To prevent any future rust, try using some Carnuba wax on the blade. It does work, just keep that in mind when you want to slice an apple or other food. I waxed the blade on my Umnumzaan (Autofom car wax), it really worked out well, and it lasts for a while.
 
gafirefighter said:
I tried that already. It locks well, but it is almost like the lock bar does not quite seat and slides a little.

Adam
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Well, its hard to say w/o looking at your knife specifically, but if it was tight before the whole ordeal it should've come back after reassembly and cleaning.
In any case, I think you made a right choice of sending it back home :)
 
gafirefighter said:
I tried that already. It locks well, but it is almost like the lock bar does not quite seat and slides a little.

Adam
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It appears to be a very common problem with Striders and I've seen it reported many times. My SMF had the same issue and they replaced the stop pin with a bigger one.

Anyway, you will need some patience. By my experience, it will take sometime until the knife gets back to you and they're not known for picking up the phone or replying emails. At least, not timely.
 
Glad to hear that all the rust spots came off, the eraser trick can work wonders when its light surface rust. As far as a way to stop the problem from happening again use a light metal polish, Flitz is real popular around here but I use Simichrome. Put a dot about half the size of a pea on a cotton rag and lightly rub the whole blade in a circular motion as if you were waxing a car. It doesn't take much and it will smooth all the micro craters that is a blasted finish just enough to resist corrosion a lot better. Unless you go crazy with it, it won't change the look of the blade or the finish but will greatly improve the corrosion resistance. After that wash it with hot water and dish soap and let it dry. Then wipe it with a little bit of whatever oil/corrosion inhibitor you have laying around. I like to use Rem oil or Breakfree CLP mainly. Good luck!
 
sjhong said:
It appears to be a very common problem with Striders and I've seen it reported many times. My SMF had the same issue and they replaced the stop pin with a bigger one.

Anyway, you will need some patience. By my experience, it will take sometime until the knife gets back to you and they're not known for picking up the phone or replying emails. At least, not timely.
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Thanks for the information. I did talk to them and they said they would fix it as long as I had not taken it apart. Now I am just waiting on another e-mail with information on how much money I need to send for return shipping.

Thanks,

Adam
 
I just wanted to take the time to make sure it is known that I am in no way bashing Striders product. I love this knife and can see myself using it for many years to come. It will just have to be like everything else on my fire truck. I use an axe, it gets wet, it will rust. We clean them up, oil them up, and on to the next job.

Do not let this shy you away from the product. This knife is built like a tank and will be used that way.

Adam
 
My SMF did the same thing as the OP's Strider. The spot on mine was right under the G10 side lock pin. I used a small pick (similar to a dental pick) and worked the surface a little to break it up and then swapped out to a nylon brush with some Marvel Mystery Oil. It’s been rust free ever since. I'm not a fanboy or anything but I can deal with a little rust from time to time. There's just something about these knives that I enjoy very much. I do know that if I every get the chance to buy another it'll be a DDG Digi SMF!!
 
This was why I went with the Stonewashed finish for my SnG. I just didn't want to have to deal with the increased potential of rust (plus I'm a sucker for a good stonewash).
 
The bead blasted finishes are famous for rusting easily--no matter what the brand. A bit of polishing with some fine steel wool, fine scotchbrite, or a gentle rub with some polishing compound will leave most of the pattern, yet smooth down the easily rusted surface.

Greg
 
I had the same problem with my SnG - and for the record it has been the only knife that developed rust spots (from sweat) while being carried in my pocket.

I used a Mr Clean eraser ( can get them in any grocery store) and then used a high quality car wax on the blade to keep the rust spots from developing.

I found that every 2 weeks or so, after moderate knife usage, the wax needed to be stripped off and reapplied.

Of course, the wax may keep you from using the knife on any food items.
 
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