Strider SNG lock bar question! (super interesting!!!)

Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Messages
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Hey guys! So what the heck.... the Strider forum has been closed since 2003? Stubborn much lol?

Anyways... I got a simple question here. As you can see in the picture the lock face only makes contact with less than half of the lock bar... is that normal? there is no blade play side to side but up and down... the titanium lock bar side actually flexes because the surface contact area is so little! It's very very little blade play but it is noticeable. It's kind of really super annoying considering the price of this thing! Let's talk about this please!!




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alright alright. That's kind of disappointing. I've never heard of anyone ever complaining about this before either.
 
My CC is the same minus blade play. None of my SnGs have had blade play. Must be my good graces for donating to the homeless midget society.
 
Actually I'm glad you asked dabossk! This makes 2 of us interested. I have a sng and your lock up is the same as mine. Ok now back to the sarcasm...
 
If the whole lock bar on a frame lock mated to the blade tang, you would never be able to unlock the knife.
 
thanks for the replies guys! I guess it is normal then. I got a real quick Q... I've had my strider for a while now and It's quite dull... would you guys recommend sending it to strider for a sharpen?
 
If the whole lock bar on a frame lock mated to the blade tang, you would never be able to unlock the knife.

In all seriousness this
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Just checked my Sebenza and it has just the bottom portion of the lockbar touching the tang. Solid as a rock.
 
Titanium aint the best lock material
And cut framelocks are pretty much the worst lock design

I'm curious why you say it's the worst lock design. Not being sarcastic, I'm actually wondering. I've heard about the Ti issues before in other threads. But since reading the thread with the lock testing video it has me curious.

I'm saying this as most of the "big" name makers employ this method and plug their knives as overbuilt hard use. One of those uses liner lock, but same thing pretty much.

Is it all just marketing?

I guess I would think if they weren't a satisfactory design, they would do something different. Take CRK for instance. He's been making knives for years and I can't really recall many people having issues with his framelock. I own a couple, and they seem really solid. Same with Hinderer. And the aforementioned Strider. I'd be surprised I imagine if in their heart these makers know they're selling an inferior product. The big guys now, not the gas station offshore stuff that comes apart in your hand.

I do understand that the lock is just a safety device. And any lock will fail if abused enough. Just kinda have to have it in your head to use your knife as if it's a slippie that's just a little harder to close. To me anyway.

Would you feel then the lockback is the way to go? Not trying to flame here, just wanting to learn more. And I enjoy lockbacks too. Of the most methods, I likely do not care for liner locks that much. It just seems they are usually so thin and want to slip off the face pretty easily. And I've seen one of my Bucks that went clear across. I contacted Buck and they said it's fine. I don't carry it.

Thanks for the help and explanation. :)
 
I'm curious why you say it's the worst lock design. Not being sarcastic, I'm actually wondering. I've heard about the Ti issues before in other threads. But since reading the thread with the lock testing video it has me curious.

I'm saying this as most of the "big" name makers employ this method and plug their knives as overbuilt hard use. One of those uses liner lock, but same thing pretty much.

Is it all just marketing?

I guess I would think if they weren't a satisfactory design, they would do something different. Take CRK for instance. He's been making knives for years and I can't really recall many people having issues with his framelock. I own a couple, and they seem really solid. Same with Hinderer. And the aforementioned Strider. I'd be surprised I imagine if in their heart these makers know they're selling an inferior product. The big guys now, not the gas station offshore stuff that comes apart in your hand.

I do understand that the lock is just a safety device. And any lock will fail if abused enough. Just kinda have to have it in your head to use your knife as if it's a slippie that's just a little harder to close. To me anyway.

Would you feel then the lockback is the way to go? Not trying to flame here, just wanting to learn more. And I enjoy lockbacks too. Of the most methods, I likely do not care for liner locks that much. It just seems they are usually so thin and want to slip off the face pretty easily. And I've seen one of my Bucks that went clear across. I contacted Buck and they said it's fine. I don't carry it.

Thanks for the help and explanation. :)

I have read a few articles on Chris Reeve and I never got the impression he was trying to create a tough lock. I always thought he was more into the simplicity of the frame lock design. Sal has stated in the past that through his testing frame locks were inherently a weaker design though.
 
I would imagine he means that framelocks aren't as strong as the Axis, Triad, compression lock, ball bearing, etc. As to why many makers use the framelock, I would guess it is a combination on things. For one it IS fairly reliable IMO. It is a simple design, and easy to clean for the user. A big chunk of Ti seems assuring as a lock, and Ti is perceived as a cool and high tech material. I don't know if this is true, but I would guess that for custom makers, less specialized equipment is needed to make a framelock than say and Axis type lock, but I could be wrong. Couple that with the fact that the other locks I mentioned are patented, and you have a bunch of Ti framelocks.
 
I would imagine he means that framelocks aren't as strong as the Axis, Triad, compression lock, ball bearing, etc. As to why many makers use the framelock, I would guess it is a combination on things. For one it IS fairly reliable IMO. It is a simple design, and easy to clean for the user. A big chunk of Ti seems assuring as a lock, and Ti is perceived as a cool and high tech material. I don't know if this is true, but I would guess that for custom makers, less specialized equipment is needed to make a framelock than say and Axis type lock, but I could be wrong. Couple that with the fact that the other locks I mentioned are patented, and you have a bunch of Ti framelocks.

I gotta agree and framelocks probably allow alot more freedom in design then other locking devices. i.e. flippers
 
rpnp - thank you for your reply. Interesting. Your comment about Sal though begs the question, why the liner lock & frame lock models then? If he feels his lock back is the way to go, why stray from it? Consumer demand I would guess. And I'm sure his liner & frame locks are "strong enough" so to speak. Just as CRK's are too, as are the others I would think. If you stay with well established makers and quality custom makers. Otherwise a bad rep spreads like crazy now days.

We shouldn't be trying to lift tanks with the things. Lol. :)

jstn - you mentioned some very good points that are likely spot on. When does a lock become "strong enough" is where I see people seeming to expect the unreasonable from the knife & lock. What did the world do with just slip joints and fixed blades way back when. ;)

But I'm guessing I've hijacked the OP's thread onto a tangent. Sorry about that.
 
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