Strider vs A.G. Russell

arijer said:
Well... I convexed it. and i have convexed a lot of knives, but this is the only one that gives me grief. Its not a typical Sebbie, its a Insigno Small Sebbie. I dont know if that makes a difference.


To solve my problem... Spyderco needs to come out with a Military tip up carry Titanium slabs with S35V steel... and then i will rest:D:thumbup:

Or i can just buy the new ESEE HEST folder with coated D2, i have 2 D2 blades that i take at times fishing. They actually dont do that bad... Of course nothing still holds up to salt water as H1....
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You could try getting your hands on the sprint G10/Ti Framelock M4 steel Military. Looks like one hell of a knife if you can get one.

As for the S30V on the Sebbie I dont know what is going wrong with your particular knife but mine sharpens perfectly fine and I still think CRK does S30V the best for a hard use blade. Its the only S30V knife I own that has never ever chipped or even microchipped from what I could tell. I think you should send it in to be resharpened and try again.
 
grumpyxtremes10 said:
Both of those knives are horrible choices for being around salt water.
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I thought S30V was a SS?

Why is it bad around saltwater then?

The A.G. Russell™ Acies Titanium Frame Lock is bad ass!! But too expensive for my blood! (I'm looking for under $175 so leaning toward ZT300 or HEST/F)
 
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agoutihead said:
I thought S30V was a SS?

Why is it bad around saltwater then?

The A.G. Russell™ Acies Titanium Frame Lock is bad ass!! But too expensive for my blood! (I'm looking for under $175 so leaning toward ZT300 or HEST/F)
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S30V is catagorized as a stainless steel. Salt water seems to do evil things to most any steel, it's just corrosive to no end.
 
agoutihead said:
I thought S30V was a SS?

Why is it bad around saltwater then?
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Chromium is what makes stainless steel "stainless". Steel is generally considered "stainless" if it has 13% Cr or more. S30V has 14% Cr, so it's "stainless", but only just. Saltwater will corrode just about any steel, no matter how much chromium it contains, given enough time. When it comes to knife steels, it's always a trade off between corrosion resistance and both toughness and wear resistance. Apart from stain resistance, chromium adds no desirable properties to steel when it comes to blades. 13% or more is a significant chunk that could otherwise be use for other, more desireable elements (performance-wise).
 
Planterz said:
... Apart from stain resistance, chromium adds no desirable properties to steel when it comes to blades. 13% or more is a significant chunk that could otherwise be use for other, more desireable elements (performance-wise).
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Help me to understand something. If the above is true, why does Hitachi pack 20% chromium into ZDP-189?
 
Bill1170 said:
Help me to understand something. If the above is true, why does Hitachi pack 20% chromium into ZDP-189?
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They also pack 3% carbon, more than double or even triple previous "super" steels like 154CM, ATS-34, and S30V. One offsets the other. Lotta chromium? Need more carbon. I shouldn't have said "no desirable properties", because there's lots of non-stainless high carbon steels that have a bit of chromium for some reason that isn't for rust resistance. Hell, L6 has a bit of chromium and that stuff'll rust if you look at it cross-eyed. I should have qualified my statement that generally large amounts of chromium only serve to add corrosion resistance, usually at the cost of strength, flexibility, and/or wear resistance. If you have a steel with a lot of chromium, and a lot of carbon, it's going to be brittle and unforgiving to punishment. That's why you don't see people hacking down trees or batonning with large stainless steel blades; they use carbon steel knives. Often coated with something to protect it from rusting away.
 
Chromium increases hardenability, wear resistance, and corrosion resistance (and high temp strength). Alloying is all about trade offs.
 
If you go to the AG Russell website, there is a video review of the Acies and its not a total whitewash rave job either, the dude raises one interesting point about the lock-bar cutout.

If you are curious about ZDP-189 you can pick up a Spydie Stretch in that steel for a reasonable sum and give it a whirl before dropping big cash on the Acies.
 
I don't know about the AGRussell.

However, I've had a convexed Strider PT for a while, and it's a great EDC. In my experience, it holds an edge very well, but have found the S30V to be difficult to get hair-splitting sharp. Then again, that's something I don't worry about with a convex edge, as you don't notice a cutting difference between sharp and hair-splitting most of the time.

The Strider PT is also the knife I have when fishing--fresh or salt--and I've had no issues at all with it. It has been wet and not well rinsed off from salt-water plenty of times (in my pocket as I wade waist-deep, for example). The Ti + S30V is perfect for that application, IMHO.

We could always trade the PT for the CRK and you could see what you think :-)

DJK
 
My strider rusts more in my pocket than my carbon steel knives do and my zdp leek rusted sitting in a drawer in my house. None of my 420j2 laminated zdp knives have ever rusted. If you are going to spend time around salt water look at a boye or a salt series knife.
 
Good call, Grumpy.
If oxidization is a problem, then don't use something that can oxidize, i.e iron.
My recomendation, although pricey, is either a Boye dendtritic cobalt folder, or a Mission all titanium folder. The Boye is a solid lockback, readily available online, and the Mission is available on the "auction site". Personally, I'd give my money to David Boye first. Also, the Boye cobalt never stops cutting, and you can very VERY easily sharpen it on just about anything to a very serviceable edge. Can't say the same for the titanium Mission.
Both knives are corrosion proof and bullet proof.
Hmm...I just might pick up another Boye...youre making me want to hit the high seas again.

Good luck!
 
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