Strider's PD-1 steel question.

mosseri

mosseri

Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
155
I'll probably be buying a PD-1 SnG pretty soon. :) (My first Strider)
Wanted to ask for some impressions you might have with this steel, specifically edge retention and corrosion resistance.
I hear PD-1 is very similar to z-wear, and most everyone raves about that steel.
So what's your experience been like with PD-1?
 
I put some stuff on the other thread you started on PD-1. IMO, you aren't going to find much in the way of Jim Ankerson style test results. It's sort of new to non custom Striders which tend to get used harder than full custom $1200 Striders so not many people have really wrung it out.

http://sb-specialty-metals.com/grades/pd1

Not only angle, thickness, hardness and the temps and times selected for the heat treat will all have an impact to an extent. What you are cutting, as well as the coarseness and grit of your edge will also have an effect on wear resistance.

test it out on different types of materials. Then use an S30V or D2 blade sharpened the same way to compare as a baseline. IMO, Cruwear holds it's own with S30V, D2, CPM 154, 154cm, ATS 34, etc. On things like skinning and caping knives, some kinds of rope, not others, and flesh, meat, paper, etc. It should do well at things D2 and CPM M4 do well at. In some cases it might have greater wear than S30V, maybe not others. You have to explore each knife like it is unique.

It will pretty much always be tougher than S30V and the other stainless steels. Corrosion resistance isn't bad for a non stainless alloy but Vascowear, Cruwear, and S3V all have the habit of pitting under red rust. It's not going to rust from looking at it but if it does begin to rust get it stopped before it pits the steel. If it's coated like my Z wear SNG than only the edge needs to be watched. I use a silicone cloth wipe to hit it after use and that's all I need.

Enjoy, and don't forget that you won't see it's real performance until a couple sharpening s. The difference on mine was substantial.
 
Last edited:
The Mastiff said:
I put some stuff on the other thread you started on PD-1. IMO, you aren't going to find much in the way of Jim Ankerson style test results. It's sort of new to non custom Striders which tend to get used harder than full custom $1200 Striders so not many people have really wrung it out.

http://sb-specialty-metals.com/grades/pd1

Not only angle, thickness, hardness and the temps and times selected for the heat treat will all have an impact to an extent. What you are cutting, as well as the coarseness and grit of your edge will also have an effect on wear resistance.

test it out on different types of materials. Then use an S30V or D2 blade sharpened the same way to compare as a baseline. IMO, Cruwear holds it's own with S30V, D2, CPM 154, 154cm, ATS 34, etc. On things like skinning and caping knives, some kinds of rope, not others, and flesh, meat, paper, etc. It should do well at things D2 and CPM M4 do well at. In some cases it might have greater wear than S30V, maybe not others. You have to explore each knife like it is unique.

It will pretty much always be tougher than S30V and the other stainless steels. Corrosion resistance isn't bad for a non stainless alloy but Vascowear, Cruwear, and S30V all have the habit of pitting under red rust. It's not going to rust from looking at it but if it does begin to rust get it stopped before it pits the steel. If it's coated like my Z wear SNG than only the edge needs to be watched. I use a silicone cloth wipe to hit it after use and that's all I need.

Enjoy, and don't forget that you won't see it's real performance until a couple sharpening s. The difference on mine was substantial.
Click to expand...

Thanks again for the the very informative post!
 
Regarding edge geometry, what would be considered a good angle range to set my edge at?
 
mosseri said:
Regarding edge geometry, what would be considered a good angle range to set my edge at?
Click to expand...

20 degrees per side then keep taking it lower until you damage the edge, then start microbeveling it to a more obtuse angle.
You really have to try it yourself. There's no generic answer. We don't know what you are cutting, how much you stress the edge when you cut, or other unknowns.
 
Nullity said:
20 degrees per side then keep taking it lower until you damage the edge, then start microbeveling it to a more obtuse angle.
You really have to try it yourself. There's no generic answer. We don't know what you are cutting, how much you stress the edge when you cut, or other unknowns.
Click to expand...
Solid info there, and in all the replies to this thread.
 
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