Stripped screw on new Sebenza 25

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WhiskyJar

Joined
Dec 27, 2011
Messages
52
I somehow managed to stripped the screw on the rear lanyard and now I can't get the screw out. Suggestions?
 
Try tapping a T-8 torx bit in to the screw head to grab the screw, that should get it moving. If you really mashed it up just go up to a T-9.

WhiskyJar said:
I somehow managed to stripped the screw on the rear lanyard and now I can't get the screw out. Suggestions?
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Haze said:
Try tapping a T-8 torx bit in to the screw head to grab the screw, that should get it moving. If you really mashed it up just go up to a T-9.
Click to expand...

Tried the torx bit suggestion, didn't work, now it just freely spins inside.

Any other suggestions? I read about using JB weld and attach the original allen (expendable) and wait until it dries and torque it out.

Anyone ever try this? any other suggestions?
 
You could try a larger torx bit....? You dont have any " easy outs " for removing stripped screws I take it....? Sears has them but that doesnt help you now....!!!
 
nyefmaker said:
You could try a larger torx bit....? You dont have any " easy outs " for removing stripped screws I take it....? Sears has them but that doesnt help you now....!!!
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What does sears have? I can make a trip to sears tomorrow. *edit nevermind, found it *

I'm gonna order replacement screws first before I tackle removing this stripped one :)
 
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WhiskyJar said:
What does sears have? I can make a trip to sears tomorrow. *edit nevermind, found it *

I'm gonna order replacement screws first before I tackle removing this stripped one :)
Click to expand...

They make some that are spiraled and also ones that are like a center punch with a groove in each side ] ( almost like a drill bit ) that nites into the sides of the stripped hole. I have both, but find the center punch ones work best. Its not something I have used tons of times either. At my old job, we used them from time to time to remove stripped hex screws as thats what all the machinery was assembled with. We would pound them in carefully until they bit in, then use a cresent wrench to back the screws out. I never used them with a drill and would advise against it for obvious reasons.
 
Is the whole set up spinning, as in the male and female part just spinning in the knife handle ?

I have always used the Torx method for stripped hex heads and rarely have to use an ease out or drill the screw out. You could try a spot of superglue to fasten a bit to the screw if you want to try that.

WhiskyJar said:
Tried the torx bit suggestion, didn't work, now it just freely spins inside.

Any other suggestions? I read about using JB weld and attach the original allen (expendable) and wait until it dries and torque it out.

Anyone ever try this? any other suggestions?
Click to expand...
 
It's a Sebenza....I would send it in to Chris Reeve's shop and they will make it look like new for free.
 
Haze said:
Is the whole set up spinning, as in the male and female part just spinning in the knife handle ?

I have always used the Torx method for stripped hex heads and rarely have to use an ease out or drill the screw out. You could try a spot of superglue to fasten a bit to the screw if you want to try that.
Click to expand...

Just the stripped screw is free spinning, the other side is firmly in place.

I recall the other screws are pretty well torqued in, required a bit of effort to remove.
 
SChief454 said:
It's a Sebenza....I would send it in to Chris Reeve's shop and they will make it look like new for free.
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You mean refurbish the knife? I know I have some scratches on it from wear and tear after a few days, its a service they do for free??
 
maxbelg said:
You might wan to read this. I don't think I'll ever strip/damage a screw again!
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Just got off the phone with CRK, great customer service! they sending me a few replacement screws :)

This is the first time I stripped a screw in years. I usually don't give a lot of pressure on my screws, if I did I would blue loctite before I apply tons of pressure on a screw.
 
I stripped a screw on my small sebenza, and then tried all the usual ways to get it out. I ended up taking the knife totally apart except for that screw (back one) and then twisted the whole knife to get it loose.
 
njadam78 said:
They make really small ez outs and sell them at home depot. Its worked for me.
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Think those are called grabits. Work well for non stainless screws.

Had a problem with a Hinderer screw. Previous owner had red loctited the snot out of it. I tried torx. No go.

Ended up taking a beater blade and sawing a line in the screw so I could smash a small flat blade screw driver in it and got it to turn a little bit enough to get a vise grips on it and turn it out all the way.

Might want to try and touch the end of the screw to a soldering iron and put a little heat in it. Might break up the small dab of loctite if there is any on it.

Worst case you have to send it in and crk will take care of you.
 
Haze's suggestion is a good one, always works for me, the first time I tried it didn't seem to work, but after "tapping" a bit harder it fit snug as a bug and I was able to get her out.

Good luck:thumbup:
 
I would try any of the above right AFTER soaking it (not the blade) in very hot water..I mean boiling. Use a pair of oven mitts if you have to. It's simple chemistry or physics (depending on what major you are) and is a trick that I use all the time to try to loosen metal up.

Will definitely solve lock tight issues...even though this isn't th case...just FYI.
 
This isn't the solution to the problem, I’m going off on a tangent here. I have found a simple alternative to heating an area without going through the trouble of hot water, soldering iron or putting a flame to our beloved Sebenza’s. Bust out your ordinary blow dryer, point at the area you want to heat up and go. It will get HOT so be careful. It will break a Loctite hold without much effort. No disrespect intended to the other ideas but I ran into a problem with a stubborn pivot screw and I wasn’t too thrilled about putting a flame or hot object to a $400+ knife. Just got out the wife’s blow dryer and wola! Loctite be gone.
 
If you have a new knife Loc-tite is not something you need to worry about. CRK only use Loc-tite on the pivot of the Umnumzaan and it seems the 25 pivot as well. They also only use purple Loc-tite so it just makes the screw stiff, it is not a "lock" so to speak. If you bought the knife used then you may have a knife that has been red or blue loc-tited, against all advice from CRK I might add. :rolleyes:

Using quality tools, properly fitted to the hardwear is far more important that heating a knife up to break a bond that isn't there. :)
 
Agreed Haze, the using the right tools is more noble than coming up with clever solutions!

To be precise heating up doesn't break the all bonds unless you but enough energy into it.. Which water won't do.. It adds some chemical energy so that when you apply your mechanic enrgery (ie the force of your screw driver) you will not need as much force! It does this allowing the bonds to expand enough so that your added torque from the driver breaks the bond.. Well while I am on a science tangent... What is an easy way to increase the torque (decreasing the amount of force needed) when using a screw Driver?

Find a screw driver with a larger handle diameter. It allows for greater torque and less force for the equivalent task. A longer shaft will do it too!
 
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