Stripping and res c

J

jball1125

Joined
Aug 26, 2011
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I plan to strip my B11 soon. Do I have to worry about the chemicals coming in contact with the res c? Obviously I am not planning on getting the res c soaked but if a little gets on there would it be a problem?

Any advice on which chemical to use? I have heard the Klean strip spray is pretty good...
 
jball1125 said:
I plan to strip my B11 soon. Do I have to worry about the chemicals coming in contact with the res c? Obviously I am not planning on getting the res c soaked but if a little gets on there would it be a problem?

Any advice on which chemical to use? I have heard the Klean strip spray is pretty good...
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H-h-h-here we go again... same ole sh** search again... :yawn: just kidding, well, except for the search part. :p
But seriously, here's some brain fodder, lifetime warranty, including the handle material... must be pretty tough stuff to qualify for that kind of a warranty in order to be profitable. ;)
Proof in the pudding... res-c after chemical stripping with a virgin piece next to it for you to make your own informed decision, and yes the stripper was on the handle too. :eek: :D
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JUST DO IT ALREADY!! :thumbup:
 
Tim brotha dont bust my balls, its late and the search button was too hard to find. Could be the booz too. :p

Is that the finish under the coating or did you touch it up? Did it take a whole lot of scrubbing after soaking it in the stripper?
 
jball1125 said:
Tim brotha dont bust my balls, its late and the search button was too hard to find. Could be the booz too. :p

Is that the finish under the coating or did you touch it up? Did it take a whole lot of scrubbing after soaking it in the stripper?
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Haha...
I scotchbrited it a little to make it pop, but for the most part it the flat grind was like satin underneath this black one from Blade 2010.
It depends on the coating color/age, but the black stuff over the last few years has been super easy to get off... in fact that blade started stripping itself with use to the point I figured why wait for the inevitable? :rolleyes:
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I stripped my boss jack (now rehomed) and gladius that came with the same batch of black for the same reason.
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My sage/green/muddy/tanker and older black coated blades don't seem to have that problem though, so I almost never order black coatings now if there is a way to avoid it unless I plan to strip them.
I'm not saying there is a problem with black coatings, just that I don't prefer them despite how nice they make some colors pop.
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My B11 has the green coating, we'll see how hard it is to remove. Thanks for the pics man!
 
jball1125 said:
My B11 has the green coating, we'll see how hard it is to remove. Thanks for the pics man!
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At least in users, the jungle green seems to me to be the toughest. I wonder if there is a connection to being smooth, or if it is something else. The smooth black on my old Basic 9 was also tough stuff.
 
While we are on the stripping and scales subject. Will the chemicals damage micarta scales? I want to strip all the visible coating off an HG55 without removing the scales.

BTW. I did google this and didn't find much. :D
 
It won't hurt it any, but it might give them a dried out look the same as using carb cleaner, starting fluid to clean them or prolonged exposure to drying sunlight, but it is just the outermost layer and applying oil from your skin or any other source will make them look like new again. I actually much prefer the dried out look on all of the micartas, especially linen, tigerhide or snakeskin, but try to avoid it on the G10.

Here is an example of my Team Gemini with tigerhide (linen) micarta, dry followed by skin oil on the same handle from holding it in the second pic.
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Hols crap the coating on the HG55 MO is tough as nails. The B11 coating is coming off no problem but not even a little of the coating on the HG55 is coming off after 30 min soaking and brass brush.
 
B11 is done! That was easy, had a beautiful satin finish underneath!

HG55 not done, its been over an hour and still no results. Will wait another hour and give it another shot.

Ill post pics soon
 
Still very hard to remove the coating. Anyone know if leaving it soak overnight will cause rusting?
 
I've stripped a Swamp warden and two ESEEs. Best method I've come up with is first use a razor blade and scrape off most of it which is actually really easy. Then MEK. The cheapest way to buy a small amount is just buy some PVC pipe primer. Purple is OK but you should be able to find clear. Do your best to avoid getting that sh!t on your hands though. Well on second thought I imagine that MEK would eat res-c for breakfast. The razor bade is gangbusters though!
 
Ok finally got the coating off the HG55, took a whole lot of scubbing but I am pleased with the results. The steel under the coating has a dark bronzy look to it that I really dig.

Before:

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During:

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After:

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For those of you planning to do this in the future. Make sure you buy the chemical grade gloves. The standard latex gloves did absolutely squat, the chemical seeps right through them and this stuff burns bad. At first it feels cold, then it stings a little, then it stings a lot!

Thanks to all that helped out!
 
Wow! You stripped two Busses at the same time and they both look killer under the coating.
That is pure luck my friend. I don't see any dimples from here. The B11 looks satin. How
did the res-c hold up?
 
FTR-14c said:
Wow! You stripped two Busses at the same time and they both look killer under the coating.
That is pure luck my friend. I don't see any dimples from here. The B11 looks satin. How
did the res-c hold up?
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No dimples at all, luck indeed. Still need some finishing touches on the HG%% as the coating is very tough but Will get that done with a little sandpaper.

The Basic 11 had a beautiful satin finish under the coating. I wrapped the res c in tape as a precaution but now I have sticky stuff all over it. Its going to take a long time to get it all off. I did get some of the chemical on the part closest to the tang and it seems unaffected.
 
Great job and looks like you scored some good ones underneath the coatings.
It doesn't look like the ricasso area has any dimples like my B11 did.

I am going to post some keywords for the next person searching that wants to find this info:
resc , res-c , res c , respirene-c , respirene , strip , stripper , stripping , micarta , macarta , g10 , g-10
 
Res C is pretty impervious to chemicals. It is not like kraton. The tape residue should come off with some solvent.
 
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