strong user knife for construction job. Any suggestions?

SPXTrader said:
And you know this from personal experience or are you just regurgitating stuff you've read on the internet?
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I know that because my ZT200's lock would regularly jam if any dirt or mud got into the pivot or lock face. It usually required pliers to unlock the knife, and if the knife was not immediately cleaned, this problem would persist. I have no personal experience with how any of the ti framelocks (0560 or 0550) would perform in dirt, nor would I know how secure the lock would be if the knife was used for light prying.

As for poor cutting geometry, my ZT200 doesn't cut worth a darn. The blade is too thick and material tends to bind up in the re-curve if cutting or chopping. It does dig quite well, though.
 
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Bugout Bill said:
Not necessarily. A fair number suffer from poor cutting geometry. Additionally, some of their designs could suffer lock failure under dirty conditions.

A MUDD or 0550 would probably work quite well, though.
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Bugout Bill said:
I know that because my ZT200's lock would regularly jam if any dirt or mud got into the pivot or lock face. It usually required pliers to unlock the knife, and if the knife was not immediately cleaned, this problem would persist. I have no personal experience with how any of the ti framelocks (0560 or 0550) would perform in dirt, nor would I know how secure the lock would be if the knife was used for light prying.

As for poor cutting geometry, my ZT200 doesn't cut worth a darn. The blade is too thick and material tends to bind up in the re-curve if cutting or chopping. It does dig quite well, though.
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for one mans experiences with a single model... i dunno if that's good argument.....
 
Ohboyherewego. KAI is NOT the be-all, end-all knife company on this planet, and their designs aren't perfect. GET OVER IT.



WHY DOES THIS NEVER HAPPEN WITH OTHER MANUFACTURERS?!


OP, use that PM2, but be reasonable in your expectations.
 
j4ckwr4th said:
for one mans experiences with a single model... i dunno if that's good argument.....
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It's an awful argument. That was my experience with that particular knife, but it was bad enough to make recommend against using it in very dirty conditions, which construction sites tend to be. If more people used their knives under similar conditions, we might find out if my experience was an anomaly or if it is an actual design flaw.

As for cutting performance:

ZT200: .16 inch thick blade

ZT0550: .156 in

ZT0560: .16 in

Paramilitary 2: .14 in

Blur: .12 in

All of that was from BladeHQ's product descriptions. This is just blade thickness, not thickness behind the edge, edge angle, etc. But which of these knives are going to cut better?


Cypress said:
OP, use that PM2, but be reasonable in your expectations.
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The PM2 can easily survive construction work, as long as it isn't used for prying. It's steel would be interesting, as high carbide steels really aren't desirable in situations where the knife is going to be dulled quickly anyway (i.e. sod cutting, dirty materials cutting, cutting carpet.)
 
I am a carpenter and the Rat1 has been my main blade but I alternate often and my Blur tanto and Grip are fine too with most tasks.
 
I'd say a Byrd or a Cryo 2 plus your choice of disposable blade utility knives. The Byrd I use is the Cara Cara though not everybody likes that large a folder. The Cryo 2 is 3.5 inches IIRC. The original Cryo is 3 inches I believe. The knives are at the $30 and below range and are tough, easy to sharpen and last a while.
 
Use the ones you have. Knives look better beat up with character.
Plus, they both have warranties.
 
bladeboss said:
Use the ones you have. Knives look better beat up with character.
Plus, they both have warranties.
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i'll go along with that plus if you work in construction you should already have a retractable utility knife in your belt.
 
If you believe you are going to be prying with the knife often enough I would just get a small fix blade
You wont have to worry about bearings getting grit in them and needing constant cleaning or anything of that sort
Its pretty easy to get any desirable steel you want in a small fixie without it costing an extreme amount
 
Use what you've got. The PM2 is a fave for a reason. And I love my Blur. I'm sure it can handle anything you throw at it.
 
Another vote for using what you have. I am sure either one will be up to the tasks.

I have never understood the reasoning behind having nice quality knives , but buying a less expensive 'beater' knife to actually use. :confused:
 
CRKT 4030 Folding Razel, there is also a stubby Folding Razel. I've heard carpenters and landscapers talking up about em and want to get one myself. Probably of the more practical / effective offerings from CRKT.

Aside from that the Boker Bulldog, Zancudo, Rat1 all +1 and possibly a Cold Steel Pocket Bushman, which has the strongest ass [in my opinion] lock [RamSafe] that is currently produced. I read a pop about the PB from a guy working on an oil station, he was batoning hoses with one all during his shifts, no probs..
 
Been in the trades for almost 40 years now. Like many have said, a box cutter does as much as I can use it for as I don't like using my knives to cut wet, dirty, gritty materials. Nor do I like to cut shingles, sheetrock, insulation, etc., with them. The box cutter was designed for all of those tasks and frankly, a knife just won't do them as well. That's why almost all tool bags (the kind you wear) have an opening to fit one of these knives.

On the other hand, some tasks the box cutter doesn't do well. For those I keep a RAT1, a Kershaw Tremor or a Utilitac in my pocket as well. They fill the bill much better than some of my more expensive knives as they are cheap to replace if they get damaged from hard use or a mistake (say cutting down a box you know has no staples in it, but it does...), if someone forgets to give it back (it happens... no theft, just use of a tool that follows someone home - I get it back next time I see them) or I do something to damage the finish like open caustic materials.

They can be buffed, resharpened, oiled and back in service in no time. The steels are hard enough to get some good use out of before resharpening and don't chip or roll. They just go dull. At lunch I have resharpened my RAT1 many times with a piece of 600gr wet and dry while out on the job, so basic maintenance is pretty easy.

The RAT and the Tremor have seen the most use by far, and I like them both so much for their assigned tasks that I bought extras and have them waiting to be called up. I am pleased to say that the RAT has been used well for about 4 years now and still locks up tight and performs as well as the day I got it with the exception of the FRN handle scales going smooth. I mean, really smooth. The Tremor is about a year old, but has worked out just as well, but the scales show no signs of smoothing out as they are G10.

Robert
 
For construction job: use cheap fixed blade Mora or something similar.
I do not think you prefer opening/closing a folder to having easily accessable fixed blade on your belt!
Do not use fancy expensive knives: if you are not prepared to loose one!

P.S. For anything else it totally makes sense to use the knives that you've already got: as many people here have advised you already.
 
For a pure beating get a Cold steel with a tri ad lock like an AK 47 or recon, both very comfortable. If you will respect it a little bit more get a ZT 056- model or a Spyderco Military TI>
 
I agree with those who say to use the PM2. It's an outstanding knife and can do the job you're asking.

However, if the cost is holding you back & you'll think you're going to avoid hard use, then just use the blur. They're only $50-60 right now and come with good blade steel.
 
not2sharp said:
Perhaps, but a knife nut with experience would tell you to go with the utility knife.
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I've used utility knives when working in factories, sign installation, and other types of jobs.
I MUCH prefer to use my own knives. I just sharpen them. :)
I prefer the handle ergonomics for one thing.
And I just like using my own stuff in general.
 
Good box cutter + knives you already have

Kershaw has a cheap blade replacement program, not sure about the spyderco as I don't own one. But having handled the blur and my brother beating up a Kershaw Chill in his job moving heavy machinery and that held up really well I wouldn't hesitate using the Blur.
 
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