Strongest folder lock

I think I am hearing that almost any type lock can be accidentally released, especially during hard use. The majority of you vote for the axis with lock back 2nd although some think that the liner lock can be just as effective if designed properly. As usual there are no clear cut answeres, everybody likes what works for them. I guess if you have never had one fail, thats the one you like. Thanks for all the input. Another tough decision.
 
Excranium, you just learned the exact truth aboutt the strongest folder lock: it's academic and anectdotal. Think about locking folders like the Spyker SUV: I'm a car guy, and the spyker SUV is supposed to be the sportiest SUV out there. Extremely expensive, and the top speed is only 150 miles per hour. Need to go faster? Then get a friggin' sports car, that was built with that single minded purpose in mind. Generally you don't need a car that goes over 100 mph, but if you do, then you should probably get a dedicated object meant to do just that (sports car, fixed blade) rather than paying extra to get the best compromise object (SUV, folding knife) that won't even do it as well as a cheaper purpose built one.
Zero
 
Lot to learn here. I have been looking at the KnifeWorks site and the Benchmade site. I like the Dejavoo (modified locking liner-what does that mean?) and the Kulgera (Axis lock). Then there are the Lone Wolf knives....its a good thing I have some time on my hands, this is not as easy as I thought it would be.
 
I recommend the Axis lock in that price range. Generally a reliable and strong design.

As for lock strength, destroying a few knives has left me with the following thoughts:

Axis lock - failure due to sliding off the back of the ramp. Some new knives suffer from this also. Verify how far the axis bar is from the terminal end of the ramp.

Liner-lock - they bend and either eventually slide off one side of the blade locking surface or simply collapse. Bad ones slide off with little closing pressure. Shorter locking beams seem stronger for a given thickness of liner. Strangely, flex can result in a reliable lock, to a point anyway. Many of the Spyderco Military knives I've handled usually flexed a good bit, yet did not disengage.

Frame locks - slide off the blade ramp - only one titanium one deformed at the cut out and that was due to applying force that twisted the handle; which brings up another issue, since many frame locks seem to have fasteners only at the rear of the handle and the pivot, allowing the frame to be twisted easier. As with liner-locks, bad ones slide off with little pressure.

Lockbacks - it is all in the engagement. Price doesn't seem to be a determination as to whether the engagement is deep enough or at a proper angle. And worse, you need to take the knife apart to see it. Good, deep engagement at a proper angle makes a stong lock. When the engagement is right, you can shear the pivot pin in a Buck 110 before failure of the lock. When the engagement is wrong, the lock is easily popped. I think STR had some pictures illustrating the issue.

Plunger locks - "button locks" usually seen on automatics - sooner or later they seem to slide off the end of the engagement or the thin part for blade clearance deforms - also, most barely engage 1/3 of the available blade for locking, if that much.
 
blackend said:
You sure? Can't say I've ever heard of a pivot failing. Heck... the blade would probably break before the pivot. The whole knife would have to come apart for this to happen.
Anyhow I'd say a lockback or axis lock is the strongest lock available. Always a chance because the locking mechinisim is close to the front of the handle where your fingers are, that the axis lock could be disengaged by accident. Not likely but possible. Frame locks are pretty strong, but still a version of the liner lock. I'd trust the lockback first.
:thumbup:
Click to expand...

Quite sure. Locks don't break, they slip. That is they do not fail due to being broken, but because they fail to engage properly.

Therefore the first sentence of mine that you quoted.
"Strength vs. reliability".

I agree on the axis and lockbacks being quite reliable. But then again, in almost 50 years of using lockbacks, I've never had any failures. I've not used the other locks as long as I've used lockbacks.

Folks talk a lot about "strongest lock" and sometimes about "reliable lock", but I don't hear much about lock failures of knves from high quality manufacturers. You have to wonder how much theory is involved here vs. how much real life failure. Hence my last sentence in the first post, "Buy a knife from a good manufacturer and don't worry about "strongest lock.""
 
I would suggest you find a knife that you like the looks of, and come back, and ask about experiences with that particular knife!
 
I wouldn't discredit slipjoints, but I wouldn't trust my opinel to keep my fingers on my hand. The ring snaps off if locked and you open it, I have my doubts on it. On the other hand, the opinel is a slicer and a freakin amazing one at that.
 
I trust everything Spyderco. The Manix is probably their strongest lock offering and the Military is probably amongst their most reliable offerings. Frame locks are great too, so check out the Benchmade Skirmish and other $100+ framelock knives.

IMHO the $100 range usually gets you a really good folder for the money, or a good fixed blade. If you are worried about lock strength get the knife with no lock at all, a fixed blade, such as the RAT Cutlery RC-3 or RC-4.
 
me i always say that lockbacks are the strongest i have several (4 Spyderco's, a Buck 110, Kabar Mule and Dozier) and all are solid reliable knives i just bought a Spyderco mini manix and it is like a tank when it locks, the AXIS by Benchmade is nice and easy to use but the springs that keep the lock forward in the lock position can break and snap and your kinda okay with one of the springs but if the 2nd one goes out then your pooped, from what ive seen the lockbacks are the longest lasting type of lock out there, the AXIS is a great and revolutionary system from a great and reputable manufacturer and its a simple system, while i dont own a folding Benchmade(my 140BK Nimravus is going with a buddy of mine to help him in Afghanistan on the 15th of May here in a couple of days, its going to be his WHEN he gets back, he doesnt know that its gonna be his though) i know a couple who do and they really like the AXIS. So in my UNprofessional opinion i would say that lock backs are the best, strongest, and longest lasting lock out there. Sorry for carrying on, i sell knives and from mine and my customers experience lock backs are just the plain best out there, heck just look at the Buck 110's.

Eric
 
that thing about the springs in the AXIS lock would be an example of gross abuse of the knife resulting in them breaking sooner, or when you open it harshly all the time.
 
For outdoors use, you want a fixed blade. The only tasks I would use a folding knife for in the bush would be just as easily done by a slipjoint. Get a knife you like the feel of, that has a lock that reliably engages, and then buy a Mora or something fancier for the woods. A SAK or Leatherman and a Mora is a formidable combination, and the SAK would serve you well as an EDC because they are very sheeple friendly (and useful). Even if you choose to get a sexier folder, a Mora is about $10, and you should be able to easily find room for both in your budget.

I EDC a Spyderco Endura. I did have the lock fail to engage once due to pocket lint, but because the lock on an Endura normally closes so solidly, I immediately noticed that there was a problem, and cleaned the lint out. Plus I just love that sound.
 
MikeC said:
In my humble apinion I go for the frame lock, while the axis lock is good, the frame lock is all about simplicity, ease of maitenace. Its a simpler with less moving parts apartus, and I like that. The less parts and the simpler the design the better, for me.
Click to expand...

Though my favorite lock is the axis, I think for the OP's intended usage for outdoor camping chores, a frame lock would be better. They're undoubtedly the easiest to maintain, while still having an exceptionally strong (if not strongest) locking mechanism.

I've heard in the past (through this forum) that balisongs have one of the stronger locking mechanisms.
 
axis is certainly good, but a spyderco compression is also, a strider frame lock is pretty good too, as are a lot of other frame locks, nothing wrong with a well fitted/designed liner lock either, ya dont hear of many pat crawford or ernest emerson liner locks failing, lockbacks are good too.

really imho the only lock which was really a poor design was the old rekat rolling lock, it was terrible.

i would say an axis, compression or frame or all great locks.
 
The Ball-Bearing lock is strong. The only issue I've had with them is FOD (foreign object or debrie) seems to be more of a problem than with the Axis mechanism. Usually failure to open, though a few incidents of failure to fully disengage.
 
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