Strongest mult-temp adhesive for scales.

A

Any Cal.

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Hello. I am working on a blade that I have more money into than usual, so now I want to spend more.:p If I have my facts straight, epoxied scales can be frozen or boiled off. I am working on a tool that could easily be subjected to -30F at times, and wondered what the best adhesive would be. Any thoughts would be appreciated, along w/ where to buy and working tips. I am putting stabilized scales on a full tang knife w/ hidden bolts.
I am also thinking of using Lexel sealant, as it is incredibly tough and clear, but dries rubbery. Many times more adhesive than silicone, and 19 times clearer. Tell me your opinions on any of it. Thanks.:)
 
-30 = Alaska?? I was considering this question awhile back. With a little luck, I'll be moving up to Alaska in a few years, and need to be thinking about making handles that will hold up in very cold climates. I was thinking that maybe hidden full-tang knives might be the best bet, so that at -30, they won't become a part of your anatomy.
- Mitch
 
I designed a small, folding, two bladed,wharncliff trapper about 10 years ago. I had Al Crenshaw make it, in his style, for me. It has black lip pearl scales, with one pin on each side. One of the scales came loose. I would be interested in a good epoxy to glue the scale down. Any ideas.
 
Might want to check out Gorilla glue. They all have their weaknesses at the end of the day, so decide on the one that makes the most sense, keeping in mind that your bolts are there to keep the knife together.
 
The scales are pinned,and glued. I will try gorilla glue.I have heard it was pretty good.
 
Has anybody here actually used Gorilla for handle slabs? I don't know if I really trust that foamy stuff for knife handles....never used it for handle slabs, just don't like the looks of it. Thanks.
- Mitch
 
The Glue Wars tests here demonstrated that Gorilla was very good for wood to metal and very bad for metal to metal. I suspect that pearl would be more like metal than wood...
 
Troop, while searching the archives, it seems that the Gorilla glue foams when there is a gap. I do not know myself as I have never used it.
I have used epoxy, but do not particularly care for it. I am thinking that if the bolts are holding the scales on, I may just use Lexel to seal the backside, esp. since the scales are stabilized. It will most likely just prevent any movement in the scales. Sticks very well to everything too.
 
Any Cal. said:
Troop, while searching the archives, it seems that the Gorilla glue foams when there is a gap. I do not know myself as I have never used it.
I have used epoxy, but do not particularly care for it. I am thinking that if the bolts are holding the scales on, I may just use Lexel to seal the backside, esp. since the scales are stabilized. It will most likely just prevent any movement in the scales. Sticks very well to everything too.
Click to expand...

Yup, that would work. If you used threaded screws to hold the scales on (like Justin of Ranger Knives does), then you would just have to concern yourself more with sealing up the slabs. Good idea.:thumbup: thanks.
- Mitch
 
I learned a long time ago not to rely on glue to hold things together except for a few instances.

One on a hidden tange knife where the tange is rough enough and the inside of the handle rough enough and there is a large enough(3/32" or so) space around the tange to make the epoxy act like a rivit all the way around the tange. You could literaly put release agent on the tange and glue it up and it'd stay together and tight.

Anouther is when using mycarta pins into mycart. The epoxy expands and contracts at the same or nearly the same rate as the mycarta. Even then I blind drill at an angle under the scales to make hidden epoxy rivits. And I still wouldn't make a survival or rough use knife this way, strickly for light duty.

To me epoxy is primarily for a moister seal, especialy on a full tange knife that sideways force trys to pry the scales off. I know a knife is not ment for prying, but it does happen and the most secure way to attach scales is loveless bolts, corbys, or to pien pin stock. Though the loveless bolts and corbys are the most secure I've tried.

I use accureglass beading epoxy for just about everything, I can't remember rite off the top of my head what the temp range is on it. I like it because it's been around for 50+ years with no problems and it plenty tough and oil/solvent resistant and temp resistant enough for the way I use epoxy on a knife.
 
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