Originally posted by Mad Mike
Yvsa,
Got a question for the sharpening "Guru". With regard to the polishing of the edge on a strop.
Well thanks Mike, but I don't know about the "Guru" part.
I haven't been using one myself, instead I've been using a ceramic rod.
Mike what ever works for you is best, the main thing is results and it sounds like you're getting them.
I've found that the difference in the hardness of an individual khukuri's edge is sometimes what determines the best tool or in this case "hone" for the job.
A strop will give you a higher polished finish as Firkin says.
Do these polish like you been mentioning? Both my BAS and 15" AK will shave a bare spot on my arm.
No, the ceramic won't polish like a strop. The Green Chromium Oxide has around a 10,000 grit IIRC.
And you can use the Chromium Oxide on most anything, it doesn't have to be leather although I think the smooth side of the leather with the C/O does the best job of polishing.
You can use the cardboard as Firkin mentioned or you can use canvas, denim, and other "hard" cloths.
And Mike, there's shaving sharp and then there's Shaving Sharp!!!!
I myself, like many others feel that a highly polished edge bevel holds up much better due to having less stress risers than a plain honed finish will although the plain honed finish can be very smooth.
Those of us with a buffing capability has quite the advantage over the rest of you guys.
Another thing I might add is that the super polished bevels and edges don't have a "bite" to them like one finished with a ceramic hone, BUT they will "push cut" much better than any other finish IMO.
I've simply been sharpening them as I'd sharpen an ax or other chopper.
And that's what I've been advocateing from the very start!!!! When you sharpen a khuk like an axe it will have not only a convex edge, but a full convex bevel whether it be a full convex or a Sabre Convex.
First a 8" file, following the angle of the edge as close as possible, than a "puck" round stone,and finally the ceramic rod.
Sounds good to me but I've found that unless one has a really decent and pretty new file they usually won't file the sweet spot well at all!!!!
I have several kinds of hones from a couple of the Spydeco Ceramics that I'm very impressed with to the Norton Fine India Hone that's been the mainstay for a lot of machinists and other metal workers for a good many years.
I've even got a couple of the Chinese Hones that are fairly decent.
One is a huge sucker about 3" or so thick and high and maybe 10" to 12" long with a choice of fine or coarse grit!!!!
I also have a couple of sets of the ceramic rods set in the blocks of wood to supposedly gives one the "correct" angle to sharpen to.
Problem with these are that no two outfits agree on what's "correct" and so you have to adjust the angles to get them all to come in the same.
Of course removed from the stand they can be used to put on a fairly nice convex bevel and edge.
Sound right? Or am I leaving out something?
Thanks!
Sounds to me like all you need is a couple of strops. I recommend one with Jeweler's Rouge and one with the Chromium Oxide.
If you really want to pick some nits like I do sometimes then make a third one and charge it with Tripoli.
Then after you get done with your hones you can go to first......
Tripoli,......
Jeweler's Rouge,......
and the Chromium Oxide.......
Then maybe people will start calling you a Guru as well.
Edited because of dumbass Okie mistakes.
