Stropping - Worth it? Compounds or no compounds?

Comeuppance

Comeuppance

Fixed Blade EDC Emisssary
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
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As a slight follow-up to my last topic, I bit the bullet and bought a ZT 0561 in celebration of my recent promotion. Now, I want to be able to maintain that factory edge as best as possible, and I'm forced to consider stropping after years of just using diamond sharpeners and ceramic rods. Ceramic rods, with a careful eye, have given me some ridiculously sharp edges in the past, but that is with quite a bit of attention to detail. Stropping, I've heard, requires a little less exactness, gives a mirror polish, and will work out microscopic edge damage without removing much steel or accidentally changing edge geometry.

So, if that's accurate, I really should invest in one.

I've noticed most people say they use different grit compounds on their strops - is that entirely necessary? Could I get similar results just stropping on the dry leather?

Also, please feel free to clear up any misconceptions I've inadvertently stated >.>
 
So, if that's accurate, I really should invest in one.
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It is, and you should.

I use medium compound on one side and fine on the other.

If I keep up on my user knives' edges, I no longer need stones and the edges are mirror polished and very very extra super sharp.
 
You certainly should get one. I have the pre-loaded strop block from Knives Plus.
Works very well, and easily gets me to shaving sharp and mirror polished edges.
 
Great way to maintain you edge. I use chromium oxide, diamond spray in 0.5 and 0.25 micron and finish up on kangaroo leather without any compound. Fantastic edge results. Its, worth going the extra mile. IMO
Good Luck,
Ron
 
Compounds come in different grits just like any sharpening system.

Plain leather is a fine way to finish up your stropping, but having strops with different compounds is really the way to go.




Big Mike
 
The things you have heard are correct, and stropping is definitely worth it.

I highly recommend compounds, leather by itself won't really remove a noticeable amount of steel. I recently started using diamond sprays and it's been great, but stuff like the Bark River compounds work well too. It's not really necessary to go through different grits, .5-1 micron is typical.

I do recommend good quality leather for the strop - you can pay for a pre-made one, but a cheap option is to buy the tanned leather yourself(I buy them in a long 3" wide strip) and make your own.
 
It's worth it, especially with those super steels. Quick touch up after light to moderate use, with the right angle and presser (presser as in only the weight of the blade) can be done very fast.
Grit size goes in this order if memory serves, black -> green -> white -> bare.
 
100eyes said:
I do recommend good quality leather for the strop - you can pay for a pre-made one, but a cheap option is to buy the tanned leather yourself(I buy them in a long 3" wide strip) and make your own.
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I wish I could, but I live in an apartment and don't have anything akin to a workbench. I'll be pretty much limited to pre-mades, as I have few tools.

Given that, what are some recommendations for pre-made strops and compounds? (I'll have to check out the one from knivesplus, as I've had good experiences with them in the past.)
 
Since I started stropping; I have lost 10lbs, my hair is thicker and my skin has really cleared up. I will never stop at this point!
 
Totally worth it. Especially if you ever get into funky blade shapes like recurves.

I strop on an old piece of leather loaded up with jeweler's rouge. All of my knives get hair popping sharp with this method.
 
Stropping does improve an edge, but it is still a skill. You have to learn that skill. Improper stropping will dull an edge, too. It works best on an edge that is already very sharp. But it is no substitute for sharping with stones because it doesn't remove enough metal to overcome moderate wear, rolling, deformation or chipping.
 
I've really just become aware of some of the advantages of stripping. I have a couple of blades with convex edges, and I would like to maintain them as original. I also have read that the convex profile supports the edge better than the cantled, V-profile edge I've always used.

I'm new to forums like this, but I would like to basically leach on the experience and wisdom of others to avoid wasting time and money, so, can you folks give me some specifics on where to get leather, compounds, and which are best to use? I am fairly mechanically inclined, and I feel like I could get a workable practical knowledge and ability if I can pick the brains of more experienced users.

Thanks in advance!
 
Please note, "stripping" in the earlier post should be "stropping". It really annoys me when the auto-correct on the computer causes a complete screw-up. These clever gadgets, like a number of geniuses I know, really fit the quote: "like most intellectuals, he is intensely stupid".

Thanks
 
Twindog said:
Stropping does improve an edge, but it is still a skill. You have to learn that skill. Improper stropping will dull an edge, too. It works best on an edge that is already very sharp. But it is no substitute for sharping with stones because it doesn't remove enough metal to overcome moderate wear, rolling, deformation or chipping.
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That is something that often goes overlooked. I have a friend that strops his sharp knives (right from the stones) right into dullness.

Stropping technique isn't hard to learn though, and the results are worth the short learning curve. I personally don't strop my camp knives, but strop all my folders. I can use a folder to trim moldings and do general work on site for a day, then usually revive the edge with a few swipes on the strop. Mine is charged with green compound and it just takes about five passes a side to revive D2 and 154, and about 4 do get 1095 or other carbons up to razor sharp. Stropping is fast, convenient, and works great.

Robert
 
Good way to maintain the edge once it starts to lose bite.

I use Silicon Carbide slurry from a Norton Med or Fine stone.
 
Nailgunpilot said:
Please note, "stripping" in the earlier post should be "stropping". It really annoys me when the auto-correct on the computer causes a complete screw-up. These clever gadgets, like a number of geniuses I know, really fit the quote: "like most intellectuals, he is intensely stupid".

Thanks
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Nailgunpilot, welcome to the forums.

You could have used the edit function to correct your original post.


If you where a stripper you could probably use a pile of grimy dollar bills to strop with. :eek:



Big Mike
 
I've been sharpening for about 4 years now and feel extremely proficient at it. A leather or felt strop loaded with either 0.5 micron chromium oxide or 1 micron diamond used to be how I finished my knives in the first year or two into sharpening, but as time went on and I got better and better, I noticed that the strops didn't seem to really help improve my edges from right off the stones -- and that stropping after some use with a blade did not get me back to where I wanted the blade -- which is at the utmost peak sharpness at all times.

Now I just lightly 'strop' (edge-trailing strokes) on whatever finishing stone I'm using, normally a 5K Naniwa SS, and I personally feel my edges are sharper and have better bite than off a loaded strop. However, depending on how good or advanced you are at sharpening, a loaded strop can be a great tool to use...it is really all about preference.



side note: you mention wanting to maintain the factory edge, but I'm not sure exactly what you mean, as factory edges are usually not very sharp at all, and nowhere near a blades' capabilities
 
TheOTBalisong said:
You certainly should get one. I have the pre-loaded strop block from Knives Plus.
Works very well, and easily gets me to shaving sharp and mirror polished edges.
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I have one; my knives don't get that sharp but they do get polished well...
 
Comeuppance said:
I wish I could, but I live in an apartment and don't have anything akin to a workbench. I'll be pretty much limited to pre-mades, as I have few tools.
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You already HAVE the only tool you'll need. Your knife! Just buy a 12"x12" square of leather from on of the knife making supply shops, pick us some precut 3" or 4" wide (8"-12" long is perfect,) MDF or strapping from your home center and a tube of contact cement. Put a telephone book on your lap (or on the kitchen table) for a workbench, glue the leather to the wood. When it dries, use your knife to cut it to size. With a 12" square of leather and three blocks of wood, you can glue them all at the same time, cut the leather at the same time, and in 15 minutes have 3-4 strops for the price of one pre-made one. You can find the compound in most hobby shops or at the same home centers. If you are mail-ordering, why not get three strops for the price of one? They will be every bit as good as anything you can order, only the woodworking won't be as pretty.


Stitchawl
 
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