stubborn design

JTknives

JTknives

Joined
Jun 11, 2006
Messages
8,650
Well last night while i was on the toilet and it came to me. i have been heating my head agenst a brick wall trying to design a small but very usefull hunter style knife that is comfortable in the hand. but the catch was i did not want it to stick out past the back of my hand, also i wanter to beable to use 1" x 1/8" PG 01 batstock. And like i stated befor it it me when i was on the pot. here it is, im hopeing to get some samples out this week to see what needs tweeking. the handle will have a palm swell to around 3/4 starting from probabley 1/2. handle is cocobolo and has 3/16 brass pins which will be soldered to the blade, i dont like to put all my faith in epoxy. let me know what you think, thanks
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I think im going to call this the
"stubborn"
 
looks like a solid design its not going to be a folder is it if it is you will need to extend the .....last finger thinge on the handle... sorry about the technical term there if its not it looks like a very confurtable knife to hold as well as use
 
nop not a folder, the handle is going to have a little more curve than the picture , i was at work and did a quick sketch so i could use the scanner here. the first drawing i did looks a little better. i like simple knives tak i can sell for less than 100. do you think the handle is to short, i like to think out side the box. i also like it when the blade is the same length as the handle
 
looks very elegant and simple i just thought if it was to be a folder ye might have a point stickin out inna free space and snipin what is near the pocket you keep it in.

but that was an observation the handle looks proponet:grumpy: to the blade and seem to be designed to be held and used very nice.

i miss spell check i think that is spelled wrong but dont hold me to it:)
 
here are some quick models of the knife,

knife2.1.jpg


knife2.2.jpg


knife2.3.jpg


knife2.4.jpg



Im very proud of my handle meterial, it realy looks like cocobolo hehehe. also the handle is going to have some palm swell, i did not modle that into it


Here it is with a little better background

knife2.5.jpg
 
If you are going to do finger grooves on a handle, you should do it on knives being designed for a particular person. My first three fingers average 1" across without flexing and that handle would not fit.

Also, for hunters, you might want a larger handle to give some leverage. I find that anything under 4 1/2" is small. I don't make handle on hunter less than 4" unless by special order.
 
yes i was also thinking about taking it to 1 inch per groove, and maybe but the blade a 3" insted 2.5
 
A ricasso is a little area right past the handle where some of the steel has been grinded away. This is so you can choke up on the blade a little more for more detailed work.

Plus that design is real clean looking. Can't wait to see the finished knife.:thumbup:
 
I don't feel that the knife would need anything for choking up as the last finger groove ends just before the blade begins- but I am not a fan of choils/ ricasso areas anyways- why waste blade material
 
I think the knive could do with a slightly extended handle. Perhaps a bit thicker at the end.
You might want to add some 'thumbgrooves' on top.
 
I did something similar not too long ago
2006_0707_172948AA.JPG

The handle is only about 3" and is quite comfortable for being so small. All four fingers fit and the groove at the end is for the pinky finger. The lanyard also helps to give a hold on the knife especially when unsheathing it. Good luck with your project and let us know how it turns out.:thumbup:
 
well i just got done with the blade profile, i did it with my makita 9032 that i got for 19 bucks. here are the pictures, as you can see it fits very well and is very comfortable.

knifeblade2.jpg


knifeblade1.jpg


knifeblade3.jpg


knifeblade4.jpg


i cant wait to get the edge bevles on it and heat trat it so i can put on the scales.
 
Its a cute design, but in my opinion, the blade needs to be shorter. This would be to facilitate mechanical advantage because the handle is so short, the blade looks like it would only be good for thrusting, and not slicing and skinning which is the main purpose for a hunter design. I would go with no more than 2" blade and add a thumb recess - maybe some serrations or checkering in the thumb recess for stability and better grip.
 
on this knife i think im going to do a convex edge bevell. any tips, so far what i have been doing is using a file and cutting almost to the center scribe line and up to around half way up the blade. i then put it on my belt grinder where there is no platen, the belt is not very tight and seames to make a very nice convex from spine to edge. now is there any tips im missing. o yes one more thing, how do i get a good visable plunge cut doing an convex edge it seames to kinda blend into the tang a little. i could i gess cleanen it up with a file then return to the belt to conture it a little
 
ok i now have the edge bevles done, there a full convex grind. man i love them, any way i also did the pin holes to. now to heat treat. here thay are.

knifeblade5.jpg


knifeblade6.jpg


knifeblade7.jpg
 
ok i have heat treated the blade, using the bbq and a blow dryer (dont tell my wife). then a quetch in oil. blade came out supper strait no bends at all. now i need to temper it. what temp and for how long? i am using O1

o ya here is the pictures

knifeblade8.jpg
 
Start with 450 for 2 hours then check hardness. If too hard put it back in at 25f hotter. If you are not too worried about chip out, Then leave it hard,after first temper. If you hav'nt already get that into the oven NOW. It could crack while waiting.

Chuck
 
ok i did the tempering after i sandeded all the carbon deposits off with a worn 120 grit slack belt, i loved the finish. i then did as you sead 450 for 2 hrs then let the blade cool. it came out mostley a light straw color, but had blue/purple around the edges.

DSC00279.JPG


DSC00278.JPG
 
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